Router suggestions?

[Stephen Sebed]

I have an upcoming staircase project that involves a 1" bullnose router bit. My old craftsman 1/4" collet router doesn't seem to cut it here. I have a very nice router table to mount a big router to. Which router would you recommend? This router will not be heavily used. I do one to two projects a year, but I would like the option of doing raised panels with it. I'm thinking something along the lines of 2 1/2 hp. For the router table, should I use a drop in insert (so I can lift the whole assembly for bit changes, etc), or should I look for a model with excellent above table height and bit changes?

Thanks,
Steve

[pat warner]

Your frequecy of use warrants a 7518 or 5615, no insert.

[Fred Heenie]

There are several that should serve you well and they WILL all be suggested by someone, this subject is a magnet. I like and use a PC 7518 with variable speed. The key is variable speed. I have it hung on a Bench Dog lift and that also works well. I do raise panels with both vertical and horizontal bits, #99-512, straight and pattern bits..

[Rich Engelhardt]

I tried to slide by with a 2.5HP Freud 1700 and paid the price for it when it seized up on me while I was spinning a 3" panel raiser.

Pity - it was a great router for a table router.

I replaced it with a Milwaukee 5625-20 from Tyler Tool ($309 and unbelievable fast shipping) and a Woodpeckers plate (~ $150 for the plate, installation template, 1/2" patteren bit for the template and Woodpecker insert rings - from Carbide Processors (probably the absolute best customer service of any company in the world).

[Matt Day]

Before we suggest $350 routers, what's the budget? A nice router lift is another $350.

For infrequent use I think you could get by with a simple router plate and a 2.25 hp router like the Bosch 1617.

[Brian W Smith]

As a VERY slight tangent........because of HP requirements.

It has been my observation(40+ years) that,"bullnoze" stair tread profiles have changed.What used to be a 1/2 r (on 1" thick treads) is now more blunt.The net effect is that the moulder(in whatever configuration) profile on the "newer" versions are taking less material off.Saves .01 cents,or whatever off the product.Just sayin,check a cpl different sources for your cutter.Try to wrap your brain around how this translates to the machines workload.Good luck,a nice router can be a real asset to any shop.

[Dave Zellers]

Yes- I use a 1 1/8" diameter round bit on 1" stock. I want that straight line it gives.

I vote for the PC 7518 despite the caution flags re bearings discussed on a previous thread.

+1 on getting your lift from Carbide Processors. Love my Incra.

[Jim Andrew]

I've had good luck with a Hitachi M12V, had it several years and it does good on panel raising bits, but last Christmas bought a 3hp Grizzly shaper on sale, and it handles those jobs easier. Time you add up a router table, inserts, big router, lift, you can have a shaper. I got a power feeder as well, makes those jobs easy. And it keeps your hands out of the way of cutters.

[Peter Quinn]

If you are routing stair treads in a single pass, I'm thinking 3HP router, and the PC 7518 or the big Milwaukee would be my top two picks. Not sure how stair treads have changed, but I think the codes for projection and overhang actually suggest a less than full bullnose on a 1" tread. Last place I worked did lots of treads, 1 1/16" was standard out of 5/4 with a 1 1/8" diameter cutter, so a slightly flatter than full round profile. Easier to walk than a full round. Ive never done them with a router, this is shaper territory for me. You can do them in two passes with either a little sanding or using one of the tapered nylon bearings such as for solid surface on the second pass, I have done this for radius treads and landings rather than make a pattern for shaper in limited runs. This requires a much smaller router, 2HP is more than sufficient, 1/2" collet is still a better choice.

[Earl Rumans]

I agree with getting a big HP router for the table. I have the PC 7518 and I am very happy with it but the big Milwaukee and the big Triton are also good choices. The big Triton has been on sale a few places recently and also has above table adjustment capability. You should check it out.

[Stephen Sebed]

Thanks for all the replies!

I'm looking at the hitachi m12v2 due to the cost and power. Is it really worth the difference to upgrade to the PC or milwaulkee when I only use it a few times per year? Both are roughly $120 more than. Although the triton is about the same price as the hitachi...

This is to be a strictly table mounted router and while cost is an important factor, I understand the need to buy quality.

[Sean Troy]

Thanks for all the replies!

I'm looking at the hitachi m12v2 due to the cost and power. Is it really worth the difference to upgrade to the PC or milwaulkee when I only use it a few times per year? Both are roughly $120 more than. Although the triton is about the same price as the hitachi...

This is to be a strictly table mounted router and while cost is an important factor, I understand the need to buy quality.
I have and use the M12V2 for a few years now. No problems with dialing in the needed speed. Comfortable to hold and use also. easy to mount to a router table if you want. Adding a lift adds an element of time saving but I've used mine for without one.

[Stephen Sebed]

Also thanks for the comments about the stair tread radius! It appears that the radius is 5/8". Looks like I'll need a 1 1/4" diameter bullnose bit. I'll double check my measurement before I order anything! Thanks again.

[Mike Heidrick]

I recommend a Milwaukee 5625-20 for a large table mounted router.

I used M12Vs in my cnc for a long time before switching to a spindle and they work fine and are actually quieter than most other 2hp routers.

[Curt Harms]

A couple thoughts. Have you checked into the Triton with its under-the-table features such as built-in lift mechanism? If $ are an issue, how about one of the refurbed Hitachi plungers with a router raizer? I have a router raizer on a Freud FT2000E and it works well. There's enough 'drag' in the mechanism that I don't have to lock the plunge lock and it still doesn't move. The threads are 16 t.p.i. so one turn moves the bit 1/16".

http://bigskytool.com/Routers___c362.aspx

[Larry Browning]

Another vote for the Triton. I have one mounted in my NYW router table. It works great. I got my for $199 a few years back and it has a built in above table height adjustment and bit change that works ok, but a dedicated lift would work better, (but not $300 better!)

[Mike Hollingsworth]

at $95 you can't go wrong with the Milwaukee Grip model. I have a couple. my 7518 lives in the table. No 3/8 collet for the Milwaukee though. Went to Bosch on the MultiRouter because it takes a 3/8 collet. For plunge, there's nothing better balanced than a Festool. I have a lot of routers.

[Rich Engelhardt]

at $95 you can't go wrong with the Milwaukee Grip modelWhere are you finding that?

[Jim Rimmer]

A couple thoughts. Have you checked into the Triton with its under-the-table features such as built-in lift mechanism? If $ are an issue, how about one of the refurbed Hitachi plungers with a router raizer? I have a router raizer on a Freud FT2000E and it works well. There's enough 'drag' in the mechanism that I don't have to lock the plunge lock and it still doesn't move. The threads are 16 t.p.i. so one turn moves the bit 1/16".

http://bigskytool.com/Routers___c362.aspx

+1 on the Triton. I have one (3.5 hp) and like it and it eliminates the need for a lift.

[Stephen Sebed]

Thanks for all the help! I ended up getting the triton. The local menards had them on close-out for $209. I think that is a decent deal. It will be a few weeks before I get to test out this beast!