trimming plywood solid edging help needed

[Mark Burnette]

I'm drawing a blank. ..I know sometime in the past 3 decades of reading tips I've seen a great method of trimming the ends of applied solid edging... but can't come up with anything now that I need it.
For a table top I like to cut my strips a fraction long and glue on opposing pairs. Wait for the glue to set, trim and then glue the 2nd pair. What does everyone else do to trim the ends perfectly flush with the plywood without risk of shaving the plywood smaller?

[Charles Wiggins]

Flush cut saw (http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Kugihiki-Flush-Cutting-Saw/dp/B0037MD21W) and light sanding normally. If I need it frog-hair-perfect I'll make the blank a bit long and trim the whole thing after it's dried.

[Larry Browning]

Normally I leave my plywood a little over sized before applying the edging, and then cut to final length after the trim is applied. Or if it is already the final size I just sand it flush.
The face edge is usually the more challenging task. I try to make sure the edging is slightly proud and carefully sand flush. If I get a bit carried away and get the edging a little too thick, I have been known to use a flush trim router bit to trim it flush.

[Mark Burnette]

I used my crosscut sled to nick off the ends but it was fussy and far from foolproof. Still hoping there's a better way to do this very-common task.

[Jim Matthews]

Tico Vogt is a maker of tools for us Neanderthals.

He posted a stepwise method that he uses to get
panels trimmed out. He does this a lot, so it's
the most efficient for him.

I the panels aren't too large, this should work for most of us.

(Me, I trim with a fine tooth saw and plane to the smoothest fit.)

http://www.ticovogt.com/?p=1313

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Bottom line is that I use a flush trim bit.

This is an image of how I have done it numerous times with great results

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/routers/other-accessories/edging-plate-486058

This post has a few links on how others have done it (including me).

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?217892-Recomendations-for-making-a-Wood-Panel&p=2279619#post2279619

If you lived closer I would just wander by and show you how it is done or loan you what you need to do it. Admittedly I will be Commerce later this week, but that is still a few hours from where you are (Romeo) and my car will be pretty full.

[Mark Burnette]

If the panels are large --a countertop for example--i guess I'd have to use a hand saw.
About the only Formica look I like anymore is a hardwood edge that's sandwiched under the laminate and revealed when the edge gets profiled.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Flush cut saw (http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Kugihiki-Flush-Cutting-Saw/dp/B0037MD21W) ....

This ^^^^^, or


Normally I leave my plywood a little over sized before applying the edging, and then cut to final length after the trim is applied....

This ^^^^^

[roger wiegand]

I use a dozuki saw with very little set to the teeth, registering it against the plywood. Takes 10 seconds and works perfectly. Can't imagine bothering to set up a machine to do this.

[Kevin Jenness]

Clamp a 1" thick or so block a bit shorter than your narrowest panel to the tablesaw fence, a couple inches back from the blade on the infeed side. Set the fence so the left side of the block is aligned with the left side of the blade, and use the block as a guide for flush trimming the banding. The block provides space for the cutoffs between blade and fence. This is not safe for very narrow panels, but it is quick and effective for most cabinet parts. For narrow parts, you can use a miter gauge with the same thickness block and fence setting, dropping the block in between the panel end and fence to set up the cut, and removing it to make the cut.

[Chris Padilla]

I use a flush trim bit set up in my router table. Align the bearing of the bit with the added tallish fence that is raised up higher than the thickness of the edging and cut it away and then do some final hand sanding to taste.

I've tried the "no set to little set" saw route before but I always ended up with marks on the plywood that weren't always the easiest to sand away. With today's see-through veneer on plywood, it doesn't take much to sand through. Or perhaps I need a better saw or better technique! :)

[roger wiegand]

If there's danger of scratching a "show" surface with the saw I find a bit of painter's tape provides sufficient protection. Usually however I'm going to come back and put edging on the remaining sides, so a bit of scratching on the edge of the plywood will get hidden in the next step.

[Frank Drew]

What, doesn't anyone miter solid wood edging?

[Chris Padilla]

Sure...if necessary...but if it can be avoided, I avoid it. :)

[Mark Burnette]

Sure...if necessary...but if it can be avoided, I avoid it. :)

Amen! There are probably no shortcuts to guaranteed success with mitered corners.