Weekend Project, Lesson Learned, and a Question….

[Justin Jump]

Well, two weekends worth of projects actually.

As you can see from the “dropped” picture, my first attempt ended in tragedy, the table actually fell while I was trying to line up the holes, and cracked.

After I cooled off, kicked the wall, and yelled at the kids, I found another piece of Corian locally and started from scratch, the kicker is the first piece of Corian was free.

Anyways – my new corian (could be some other solid surface material) router table top.

I know there have been a few of these posted on here over the years, but when I picked up me new Incra lift last week, it just didn’t feel at home in a quick MDF extension top.

It’s 2 layers of ½” material epoxied together, with a third layer only 4” wide underneath to give it an 1 ½” of depth around the edges.

Anyways, I am looking for some adjustable legs for support on the ends, this thing is heavy. Anyone have a good source for some simple adjustable legs, like the ones on table saw extension tables?

THX
Justin

[Matt Day]

i'll probably use 2x's and Rocklers Heavy Duty Lifting Leveler for my next one.

http://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-lifting-leveler

[Paul Wunder]

Justin,

Would you please share what tool did you used to do the cutout for the insert? If you used a jig saw what type (teeth TPI, metal) did you use,.? Or did you use a template and a router bit (what type of bit) ?

I will need to cut the end (about 1 1/2" X 22" from the end of a 61" Swanstone sink top so that it will fit between two walls.

I am really sorry about the dropped top, but the replacement looks great! Sorry for hijacking with a question.


Did you have any problems getting a smooth cut?

Thanks.

[Justin Jump]

I used a jigsaw with a new general purpose blade to rough out the shape, about 1/8" from line, then setup guides for the router. I used a 3/4" bit with the bearing on top of the bit. The picture shows the cut-out after I roughed it and made the first pass with the router. Once I had the first reference pass with the router, I removed the wood blocks I used for the pattern, and the bearing rode on the surface from the first pass for the final pass or two. Since this knock is just for the router/router lift body to pass through, if you are satisfied with the result from just a jig saw, you could technically skip this part and just live with the knock out being done with a jig saw only.


297979

[Justin Jump]

For your sink issue though, I would just do the same, cut it to about 1/8" of your final line, then using a good flat board, double side tape the board down and use that as your reference for the final pass. If there is a back splash that you need to remove 1 1/2" of off also, not sure on that one, maybe some with a bit more "countertop" experience may chime in.

[Paul Wunder]

Justin,

Thank you so much for your "how to." I now have more confidence. I need to give the backs plash a bit more thought, but I think I can rig a guide there also

Thank you for sharing.