10 vs 12 table saw blade

[Andrew Hughes]

I have my Davis and wells table saw running.Am I throwing good money after bad if get all of my 10 inch forrest blades rebord for .75 arbor.
I did get two rebord but they are not concentric with the theeth.So now they will need to be sharpend.
I am thinking the 10 inch will spin faster but maybe not cut any better as the larger diameter.Tryd researching on the net just too confusing.Thanks Andrew

[Shawn Pixley]

The 10" blades will rotate at the same rate as the 12" blades (RPM). The tip velocity on the 12" blade will be higher. If they can't re-bore concentricly to the blade, I wouldn't bother. Get 12" blades with the right arbor hole size.

[Frank Martin]

Given that they can't rebore correctly, I would go with new blade as cost of reboring and sharpening likely gets you more than half way to a new blade.

[Andrew Hughes]

Thanks for your opinion Shawn,I think I will sell the 10s and get 12s.One inch bore are only ones I can get so I will have to use the little doohickey to reduce it to 3/4.I guess it's not soo bad.

[Andrew Hughes]

Thanks Frank,No one can promise they won't need to be topped not even Forrest.I tryd a local machinest he got very close but I can tell its not close enough.

[Keith Weber]

If they were not rebored correctly, that blunder lies completely in the hands of the machinist. Either he was lazy in his setup, his equipment was garbage, or he just didn't know what he was doing. Possibly all three were at play. In theory, you should get a smoother cut with a smaller blade, comparing blades of equal quality. The reason for that, is that say you had 0.0005" of runout on your arbor flange. The teeth on a 12" blade would runout 20% more than a 10" blade. But, I would hate to have a blade height bouncing up and down because some idiot machinist messed up your blades.

[David Kumm]

I've found it is best to have a sharpener rebore so the blade can be checked and topped if needed. A dado rebored always needs to be retopped. You should also check the saw for runout. My old saws going back to the 1930s never exceed .002 measured on the 5" flange. Dave

[Rod Sheridan]

Andrew, I had almost all my 10 inch blades rebored to 30mm when I changed saws.

I had them done by a tool manufacturer (FS Tools) for under $20 each including boring the two pin holes. They are perfect.

I only bought one 12 inch blade, a rip blade that's used for breaking down/straight lining rough stock. It's the only time I need the extra cutting height......Rod.

[Mike Wilkins]

I use 12" blades on my saw, which has a 5/8" arbor, with the use of a bushing. Works great and allows the use of my existing blades, as well as the 12" blades for the increased height (on a Laguna Pro slider).
The second best option would be to purchase from a reputable saw blade maker such as Forrest, and have them bore it for you. They are the pros at this sort of thing and will get it right.
Good Luck.

[Dick Brown]

Ever think of having the arbor turned to 5/8? My Clausing had a 3/4 and I had it turned and re-threaded to 5/8. Cost me $20. but I knew the guy. He also pressed a sleeve into the outer flange to get it down to fit. New Acme threaded nut cost 4 or 5 bucks from an industrial bolt supplier. If you very seldom need a 12" blade, just bush the one you have to 5/8. Never have to have new 10" blades anything but standard bore.

[Andrew Hughes]

Should have just sent the blade to Forrest,I didn't want to wait two weeks to get them back.Since the table has shallow miter gage slot and I don't have the miter gage,I will build a sled,So the extra blade height will be a bonus.
The other reason i was leaning toward 10 inch blades.They are soo quite.And fits my lazyness when I comes to wearing hearing protection.Aj

[Jerry Miner]

One inch bore are only ones I can get...

I believe Forrest will bore to your spec.s All you have to do is ask

[Jim Becker]

I run my 10" blades on my 12" slider with zero issues...it was a very nice feature that I could continue to use my blade investment when I switched to that slider. While I was fortunate to have a 5/8" arbor on the new saw, I would have gladly had Forrest re-bore and touch up my blades to keep their value. On the other hand, re-selling a sharp Forrest blade to another woodworker to help fund replacement blades that match the saw is certainly a reasonable solution. There is some money that goes out, but you do then start out with new blades that match the saw arbor. .75", however...is kinda a pain given most blades marketed "off the shelf" are 5/8" or 1" bore.

[Andrew Hughes]

I hear Ya Jim,I sent one blade to Forrest yesterday woodworker 2. Just too nice of a blade to let go without my finger nail marks on it.
I also put my Amana blades on local CL 5 good blades for 150 no takers yet.
I decide what to do with the rest after I get my blade back from forrest.

[Benjamin Miller]

I agree with the above -- any competent machinist should be able to bore a saw blade to within .001" total runout, and you would never be able to tell that amount of runout on a table saw.

If I were personally doing it, I would secure the blade to the milling machine table, center it to .0005" with a coaxial indicator, and bore it out with a boring head.

[Brian W Smith]

Benjamin,that is basically how we do it.I did spend some time on a fixture which gets the process done a lot faster.Haven't timed it but,probably around 15 minutes or so from start to finish.That,along with sharpening was something we wanted to keep in house....never was intended to do outside work.

[Andrew Hughes]

Hi Brian ,How tight should the fit of a blade be to the saws arbor.Its been a while since I had a cabinet saw.I remeber the blade fitting tight to the abor on a unisaw I owned.I other words if I pulled and pushed on the blade before the arbor flange nut was tightend I could not feel any play.

[Benjamin Miller]

Andrew,
I ran downstairs and measured both my table saw spindle and a Forrest WWII.

The spindle has been precision ground to exactly .6243, and the blade has been bored to .6250, give or take a few ten-thousandths. I would say the blade should have a light sliding fit, or something about .0007".

[Andrew Hughes]

Thanks, Benjamin