Newbie with a newbie question

[Jay Selway]

I've recently fallen in love with woodworking, and simply can't get enough. I was curious if anyone had any good links to tutorials or videos on how to do wood inlay. In particular, I'm working on a sign that I'd like to flush mount some aluminum letters into tiger maple.

My plan was to get the maple, edge it all together and get it to about 6' x 3'. Then my plan is to laser engrave the design into the maple (slightly bigger than the metal to leave a little gap), stain and finish all the wood, then have the metal letters plasma cut or die cut (still working out the best way to do that).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[Don Morris]

Do a search on Laser Inlays. I did and got a couple "Hits", and they looked like a start. Whenever you have a question it's a good idea to do a search on the site first. Many times the question has been asked before and answered. However, I somehow seem to ask the guys/gals for help too as you may even get even more info than what you found doing a search function.

[Jay Selway]

Do a search on Laser Inlays. I did and got a couple "Hits", and they looked like a start. Whenever you have a question it's a good idea to do a search on the site first. Many times the question has been asked before and answered. However, I somehow seem to ask the guys/gals for help too as you may even get even more info than what you found doing a search function.

Hey Don,

I did search and have read almost all the threads on here. I guess I have a pretty good understanding of doing wood inlays or veneer work now. I'm more curious in something a bit larger and heavy weight.

In particular, I'm trying to do 6' x 3' sign out of tiger maple, with an inlay of aluminum (logo/lettering).

My thought process is to glue up the tiger maple into a large board, finish the crap out of it, then raster engrave the logo into the board. Then I was planning on getting the letters / logo cut from aluminum using a CNC plasma or get them stamped.

Since this includes some metal working, maybe this isn't the best forum, but I'd be surprised if someone here doesn't have some insight on what's the best way to go about this.

Here's a rough mockup I did in photoshop: https://www.dropbox.com/s/elbacgo9roj945c/Screenshot%202014-10-03%2018.04.49.png?dl=0

Here's the look I'm going for: https://www.dropbox.com/s/el5d63rz6jlnnax/Screenshot%202014-10-04%2009.54.00.png?dl=0

Thanks in advance

[Jay Selway]

Any pointers?

[roger wiegand]

There are several excellent videos available on inlay technique in lutherie work-- fingerboards, pegheads and such. The typical sequence there is:
1) cut out the material to be inlaid, wood, metal, shell, whatever. Aluminum should cut fine with a jewelers saw in a birdsmouth jig. 2) tack the inlay down to the surface it is to be installed into using superglue 3) with a fine awl or other pointed object scribe a precise line around the inlay 4) release the inlay with some acetone 5) rout a cavity slightly less deep than your inlay is thick, so that when the inlay is installed it will be a few thousandth's proud of the surface. I use a special purpose router base for a Foredom tool to do this, there are similar rigs from Dremel. You can use a dovetail bit to slightly undercut the edge, this makes fine-fitting a little easier. I start with a 1/8th or 3/16th inch bit for the rough material removal and smaller ones, down to tiny dental drills to finish. (there are people who sell used solid carbide bits from circuit board manufacture by the dozen or hundred on ebay for cheap, they work very well in wood for a long time) Save the fine sawdust to color your glue. 6) I install the inlays with epoxy-- mix in the sawdust to get a good color match. Other glues will work. The exposed glue line should be minimal if you have routed the cavity with sufficient care. Clamp until glue is set (use wax paper to keep your caul from sticking). 7) Sand the surface to bring the inlay down to the surface and remove excess glue. 8) finish as desired.

Hope this helps.

[roger wiegand]

Just figured out you're talking feet not inches, but I think the same general outline applies. Start with your inlay piece, scribe around it, rout out the cavity, then glue it in and sand it down flush. Probably something the size of a trim router would be the appropriate tool. It's much easier to sand the inlay down flush than to hit the depth exactly on the first try.

[Peter Kelly]

Sheet aluminum is generally cut on either a cnc router or water jet machine not plasma. A sign shop should be able to trim out some dimensional letters for you. They could also cut you a template to create the inlay with.