Neander Chippendale Lowboy Build – Part 3 a weekend worth of carving

[Mike Allen1010]

This is part 3 of a mostly neander Chippendale lowboy I’m building in cherry from Franklin Gottschall’s book “Masterpiece Furniture”.

I started carving on the apron that is the bottom front of the chest. Here’s some pics of “setting out” the outline of some of the carved elements. The background was taken down with electric router, but I should’ve been more careful because I left some burn marks that will mean extra work to remove.
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Here’s my current sharpening set up: Waterstone’s from Stu and shop made strops – leather glued onto dowels. I’m getting better at sharpening the carving tools (never-ending task!), but I miss my Mikita electric horizontal Waterstone sharpener. After 30 years the motor finally gave out and I’m searching for replacement. I use shop made Lexan plates that fit over the top of the Waterstone’s themselves with abrasive paper glued on. Much easier for me to maintain a constant sharpening bevel angle when the sharpening abrasive rotates and I just need to hold the tool steady.
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Here is one edge of the carving cleaned up. Once I complete outlining the carving for the bottom edge of the apron, I will saw close to the line and finish the lower profile with files, rasps etc.
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Once the outline is done, the next step for me is to carve some of the upper surfaces – here’s a start:
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[Mike Allen1010]

Here is the upper surfaces more or less done for the right side. Left side still waiting.
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Here’s the lower profile set out with carving tools, and ready to be sawn out once the carvings on the left side are completed.
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Here is the final result of a weekends worth carving, with the upper surface of the left side still to be done.
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Honestly carving is still really more of a chore for me then a pleasure. I’m getting a little faster but still prefer some nice solid joinery – which is still come.
After carving this apron is done, I will move on to the ball and claw feet, which should be a real "adventure":confused: as this will be my first attempt for those. With that part of the carving out of the way, I should be able to assemble the carcass, which is a little more up my alley and then build the drawers. The only major carving that will remain then is a floral design on the center drawer front. I will be re -sawing that drawer front to 1 1/2" thick from a 12/4 piece.

Thanks for looking, Mike

[Patrick McCarthy]

Michael, you continue to be fearless, and inspire the more timid amongst us (ie, me). VERY nicely done. Patrick

[Doug Trembath]

Truly, Mike, it take balls of steel to put a project like this up for others to critique, especially one as complicated and demanding as this...

I presume a bit, but if the others lurking don't mind me speaking for the crowd, we all very much appreciate your efforts, applaud your craftsmanship, (and your humility) and look forward to more and more detail on this most challenging project.

I make pretty stuff, but the thought of documenting the process as you have done, is absolutely daunting, to me...

Kudos, my (hopefully) friend, for such honest, and forthright presentation...

Keep it coming. I know that I will be watching with interest...

Doug Trembath

[Christopher Charles]

Mike,

Your bravery is inspiring! Balls (and claws) of steel indeed...

C

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks guys for the kind comments.

I'm certainly neither brave nor fearless – just low standards. I have no expectations this piece will be anything special, particularly with regard to the carving.

I really enjoy hand tool furniture building because in many ways I don't have to think about it too much and I can get lost in the process. After much trial and lots of error, my fundamentals are solid (sharp tools, can saw to a line and smooth surfaces with hand planes). I walk in the shop and the hours fly-by, next thing I know it's dark and there is a pile of shavings on the floor, which is just way I like it – very therapeutic for me.

I got interested in carving just to add some simple decorative elements to my furniture. I am strictly a novice, "paint by numbers" carver – I have zero artistic/design ability. I marvel at real carvers who can look at a piece of wood and visualize the design they're trying to create. That is 100% out of my league. I go with – trace the design onto the wood and try not to screw it up too much. At this stage I really have to think about it and it takes me a long time, which is less fun for me. I get lots of chip out in the short grain areas and the final shapes aren't smooth, symmetrical etc.

For my fellow meanders who might be interested in giving carving little shot, here's what I've learned:

* Sharp matters more with carving tools than any other woodworking tools I've used. If they're not sharp you increase the risk of chipping out details. If you can sharpen planes and chisels, you can sharpen carving tools. You will need some kind of curve sharpening surface for the inside of gouges.

* Matching the sweep– degree of curvature of the gouge – to the shape your carving is key. If the sweep of the tool is off either way, (either curve too much or not curved enough) it creates extra work and it's hard to get smooth flowing lines.

* If the shape you're carvings isn't symmetrical, putting down and picking up different tools to match the sweep to the shape is a PITA. I think veteran carvers grab the correct tool just by looking at the shape, I have to look at the numbers on the tool. For this reason, I tried to carve all the areas that fit the particular sweep of the tool at the same time, which means I hopscotch all around the carving – not sure if this is the right way or not.

* Personally, I can't get some shapes straight off the carving tool. I need abrasives like sandpaper for some fine details that just crumble if I try to carve them. I think some small rifflers/files and/or scrapers might be helpful, for example in getting a smoothly rounded surface for a bead-like element, but I haven't figured out what these are.

FWIW, YMMVF

All the best, Mike