Looking for a lathe accessory .....

[Tim Boger]

I'm wondering if there is such a thing as a Jacobs Chuck that uses an 8 tpi instead of the typical morse taper, I have a tail stock adapter that accepts my Talon and Stronghold and would like it to also take the Jacobs Chuck.... I do a lot of drilling on my Jet 14 40 and find myself having to clamp my left hand on the body of my currect Jacobs Chuck during use to be sure that it does not release it placement and spin in the tail stock.

A Jacobs Chuck that threads to the tail stock adapted would solve this problem ... I don't recall ever having seen one and just did a quick google search and found nothing.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Tim

[Steve Schlumpf]

Tim - is the arbor on your jacobs chuck threaded? I am not familiar with your lathe but on mine I should be able to secure the chuck into the tailstock by using some all-thread rod. Is that something that might work for you?

Also, not knowing what it is that you are drilling, any chance you can put the jacobs chuck in the headstock and use your chuck adapter to hold the workpiece on the tailstock portion? Basically reversing your process?

[Marvin Hasenak]

Penn State Industries has one with the threads. http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TM42.html?prodpage=1TM

[Tim Boger]

Tim - is the arbor on your jacobs chuck threaded? I am not familiar with your lathe but on mine I should be able to secure the chuck into the tailstock by using some all-thread rod. Is that something that might work for you?

Also, not knowing what it is that you are drilling, any chance you can put the jacobs chuck in the headstock and use your chuck adapter to hold the workpiece on the tailstock portion? Basically reversing your process?

Hi Steve,

The arbor end of my Jacobs Chuck is simply a Morse #2, this chuck can be used in either the Head Stock or the Tail Stock but only via the Morse Taper it has .... if it had a male threaded end instead of the morse taper I would simply thread it into my tail stock adapter .... if I'm not mistaken my tail stock adapter is "live" which means it spins I think, I might also have to search out a tail stock adapter that does not spin .

BTW, my tail stock is not threaded as best I can determine.

Thank for your input,
Tim

[Tim Boger]

Penn State Industries has one with the threads. http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TM42.html?prodpage=1TM

Yep ... that's the ticket.

Todays lesson is, just because I've never seen one does not mean it doesn't exist.

Thanks guys!
Tim

[Glenn Howard]

Tim - is the arbor on your jacobs chuck threaded? I am not familiar with your lathe but on mine I should be able to secure the chuck into the tailstock by using some all-thread rod. Is that something that might work for you?

Also, not knowing what it is that you are drilling, any chance you can put the jacobs chuck in the headstock and use your chuck adapter to hold the workpiece on the tailstock portion? Basically reversing your process?

I think you may have misunderstood Steve's question (and if not, then consider this anyway). Is your current jacobs chuck threaded on the inside. I have a 2MT jacobs chuck that is open on the non-drilling end, the inside of which is threaded and will accept a drawbar made out of threaded rod, which you can make for less than a couple of bucks. Cut the threaded rod long enough to thread into the jacobs chuck and pass through the tailstock, and place a couple of washers and a wingnut on the other end. This should help hold your chuck in place. Take another look at your chuck to see if the inside is threaded.

[Peter Fabricius]

Tim,
I am thinking you must be an Engineer! You are overthinking this big time.
Tail stock adapters should spin so you can place a chuck on it to centre it on a vacuum chuck.
The MT#2 is designed to mount and unmount quickly for convenience.
Having to hold it is just good practice but you may have issues inside your tailstock taper if it is not holding your Jacobs Chuck in place.
If you have to buy a new fixed adaptor you are just introducing one more joint to allow movement or vibration.
Hope this helps.
Peter F.

[Marvin Hasenak]

After more explanation the other is not what you want.

This is what you really want https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1212&category=
and this https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1883&category=
and a draw bar, you can make it with a piece of 3/8-16 all thread and some washers and a nut.

That is if your tailstock has a hole all the way through it. It will look similar to this.


http://www.peterchild.co.uk/chucks/dcdb600.jpg

[Tim Boger]

After more explanation the other is not what you want.

This is what you really want https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1212&category=
and this https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1883&category=
and a draw bar, you can make it with a piece of 3/8-16 all thread and some washers and a nut.

That is if your tailstock has a hole all the way through it. It will look similar to this.


http://www.peterchild.co.uk/chucks/dcdb600.jpg

Thanks Marvin for the Link to the Little Machine Shop ..... I had forgotten how much cool stuff is available there. Great prices also,

What you suggested sounds like it could work.

Tim

[Marvin Hasenak]

The PSI screw on chuck is also a good deal, just not for what you explained, but I use it to make ceiling fan light pulls. I also use it to make beads, and little hang down pendants. A homemade 1/4" steel rod drilled and tapped on one end for 8-32 hex head bolt is my mandrel for the light pulls, the beads and the hang down pendants. Last month I made my wife about 100 beads that were about 1/2" long and 5/16" in diameter and about 50 ceiling fan pulls for Christmas gifts.

[robert baccus]

I assume you have cleaned, steel wooled and degreased your #2 taper well?

[Tim Boger]

I assume you have cleaned, steel wooled and degreased your #2 taper well?
Hey Robert .... I haven't tried either cleaning or using steel wool on the inside of my tail stock MT 2, seems like it is a mechanical function that I'm having trouble with. I will sure give it a try though.

Perhaps a good cleaning of the tail stock and a new Jacobs Chuck would do the trick.

Thanks,
Tim

[Tim Boger]

The PSI screw on chuck is also a good deal, just not for what you explained, but I use it to make ceiling fan light pulls. I also use it to make beads, and little hang down pendants. A homemade 1/4" steel rod drilled and tapped on one end for 8-32 hex head bolt is my mandrel for the light pulls, the beads and the hang down pendants. Last month I made my wife about 100 beads that were about 1/2" long and 5/16" in diameter and about 50 ceiling fan pulls for Christmas gifts.

Good morning Marvin,

I can't get a visual on your application of the PSI screw on chuck, it does interest me though .... about 50% of my lathe time is spent on finials and other small projects so I'd like to know more about your beads and hang down pendants.

Please elaborate.

Thanks,
Tim

[Grant Wilkinson]

I don't know what what your lathe is, but the adapter shown from the Little Machine Shop would work in the head stock of my Jet, but not in the tail stock. If I mount a Jacobs chuck in my tailstock, the distance between the chuck and the handwheel on my tailstock changes as I advance the ram. A fixed drawbar would prevent that. The drawbar can be used in my headstock to snug up the Jacobs chuck and ensure that it does not pull out when backing off the piece being drilled, but I can't use that kind of drawbar on my tailstock.

In your OP, you mention the adapter that you have for your scroll chucks. I have one like it, I think. However, you still end up having any chuck you mount on it held in the tailstock by a MT adaptor that is part of your live center. So, I would not think that solves your problem. As to it being "live", mine is, too, but I can put a small bolt through the cross-drilled hole and "lock" it up. If you are using a Oneway live center, it comes with a small bar that goes into the cross-drilled hole to stop the center from turning while you are mounting the scroll chuck adaptor.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Grant - I had to laugh at myself because you are absolutely correct in that the drawbar would not work in the tailstock! Didn't stop to think about things before offering an opinion and now I think it is pretty funny! Thanks for making my day! :D

[Grant Wilkinson]

Steve: I'm glad that you took it that way. I was not out to shoot anyone down. It was easy for me to offer this advice, since I learned it the hard way. Some time ago, I wanted some assurance that the jacobs in my tailstock would not pull out when I was backing the bit out of the handle I was drilling. I accurately measured the distance from the end of the taper to the end of my handwheel and cut a piece of threaded rod for the drawbar. I put everything together and was quite pleased with my self for this simple, elegant solution. Doh!!!

[Don Orr]

I think I'm confused here Tim. It sounds like you are using your tailstock to hold a Jacobs style drill chuck to drill into something mounted on your headstock. Is this correct? If it is, then this is a very standard procedure using a drill chuck with attached Morse taper arbor which mounts into your tailstock taper and stays put through friction. As you drill the tapers get tighter and prevents the drill from spinning in the taper socket. I'm sure you know all this already. The trouble comes when you are withdrawing the drill from the hole which is now working against the friction of the Morse taper and can come loose and spin and cause damage to either part of the taper-male or female. Holding the chuck as you withdraw it is normal to prevent this from happening. The tailstock adapter which holds your scrollchucks is also a Morse taper friction fit which is only meant for alignment and centering a piece for finishing the bottom of the object being held in the chuck. Holding a drill chuck on a Morse taper scroll chuck adapter is the same as just mounting the standard Morse taper drill chuck in the tailstock and will have the same issues when withdrawing the drill from your workpiece. Does any of this make sense or am I way off base here with my understanding of your question ? Also remember to drill a short way into your workpiece and back out to clear chips or the drill will bind and make it difficult to back out at all which will just cause your drill chuck to come loose from the tailstock taper socket. I use machinist bits often which are solid steel drill bits with an integral Morse taper and have to hold them while withdrawing or the spin. If your tapers are very good fits then sometimes you don't have to hold the drills while backing out of the hole but it is still a good idea.

Hope this helps.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Grant - I thought it was hilarious! :D So much for considering myself an expert on anything! I love it!