Backsaw rebuild done

[Jeff Wittrock]

Back in the mid 90's I needed a saw for something so I ran out and bought the cheapest plastic handled stanley backsaw I could find. I have been wanting to make a backsaw for some time and decided to just re-purpose the stanley plate and back.

I decided to start with a Kenyon backsaw template with just a few changes. I re-cut the teeth 10tpi rip. I didn't have any saw nuts on hand so made some from 1/4-28 stainless steel nuts and bolts.
I had a small piece of claro walnut on hand for the handle.

I remember the first time I looked at a london pattern handle I though it was an ugly chunky looking thing, but over time I think I have learned to love them.

[george wilson]

Very nice job,Jeff.

[Andrew Hughes]

Nice saw Jeff,The claro walnut is killer! Looks just like walnut from Oregon.

[David Weaver]

A very nice clean handle, Jeff!!

[william sympson]

Jeff,
Impressive work on the handle and hardware.

[Mike Allen1010]

Absolutely beautiful job Jeff! I love the tote – nice crisp profile and well-done lambs tongue and super cool shop made saw nuts.

Please tell me this isn't your first saw or that you are some kind of engineering/toolmaking savant– genius or I will be crushed by feelings of comparative inadequacy and self-loathing:).

All the best, Mike

[Jeff Wittrock]

Thanks all.

Mike, I wish I could say this were my first saw, but I have made a few others.
Luckily I never photographed some early attempts, and the images have dissappeared from my memory.

[Alden Miller]

Jeff, I have never made a saw handle before but I would be interested in making one (or more). I was wondering what tools/technique you used to shape the inside of the handle.

-Alden

[Jeff Wittrock]

Jeff, I have never made a saw handle before but I would be interested in making one (or more). I was wondering what tools/technique you used to shape the inside of the handle.

-Alden

Alden,

I remove most of the waste with a forstner bit to start with and then remove the remaining waiste with a turning saw or coping saw.
I do the initial shaping with a small knife, and then use a rasp and finally sandpaper.
I could skip the knife, but I do enjoy doing some of the shaping that way.
The hardest part for me is keeping a nice sharp transition from the rounded surface to the flats on the sides. Sometimes I find it helpfull to get all of the shaping and sanding done, and then as a final step, plane the flat faces again to try and resore some of the crisp lines that the sandpaper destroyed.

-Jeff

[Ron Bontz]

Hi Jeff. I must confess I still think London Patterns are clunky looking on smaller saws. But I think you did a very nice job on that one. I am particularly impressed with the uniform round overs and smooth transition. If it is uniform and even, it will show in the right light whether it is made crisp or soft. Nice job. My compliments.

[Kees Heiden]

Indeed, very nice!

Your "London flat bottom" sweeps up a bit at the back end. That's naughty!

[Alden Miller]

Alden,

I remove most of the waste with a forstner bit to start with and then remove the remaining waiste with a turning saw or coping saw.
I do the initial shaping with a small knife, and then use a rasp and finally sandpaper.
I could skip the knife, but I do enjoy doing some of the shaping that way.
The hardest part for me is keeping a nice sharp transition from the rounded surface to the flats on the sides. Sometimes I find it helpfull to get all of the shaping and sanding done, and then as a final step, plane the flat faces again to try and resore some of the crisp lines that the sandpaper destroyed.

-Jeff

Beautiful work, understanding how you do it makes me appreciate it even more. Thanks for the explanation!

-Alden

[Jeff Wittrock]

Indeed, very nice!

Your "London flat bottom" sweeps up a bit at the back end. That's naughty!

Yep, No one will accuse me of being a purist. :)

[Stewie Simpson]

Very nice work Jeff. You did very good.

Here's one I made a while ago.


Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/open%20handle%20design/DSC_0092_zps6b25f9cb.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/open%20handle%20design/DSC_0092_zps6b25f9cb.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/open%20handle%20design/DSC_0091_zpsce090497.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/open%20handle%20design/DSC_0091_zpsce090497.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

Very nice Stevie!! I love the brass back! Must have been alot of work but worth it in the end. Ho doe it work?

Thanks for sharing the pics
.

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi Mike. The brass back was shaped by hand. As you mention it adds to the presentation. The backsaw itself works beautifully. All hand sharpened of course.

regards; Stewie.

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi Mike. I spent a couple of years focused on just making backsaws. The handle designs are my own.

I then decided I needed a bit of a break from saw making and return to my previous interest, making traditional hand planes. This time with an emphasis on using toothing irons. Here's an example of 1 of those planes.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/toothed%20foreplane/th_DSC_0249_zps27124a34.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/toothed%20foreplane/DSC_0249_zps27124a34.jpg.html) Click on photo to enlarge.



From toothing planes I have now switched to making traditional Boxed Chamfer Planes. Here's the prototype I made that will form the basic design for another 4 I am currently building.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0388_zps253d2e47.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0388_zps253d2e47.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0382_zps4e5b84b2.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0382_zps4e5b84b2.jpg.html)

Here you can see a recent photo of those 4 chamfer planes in progress.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0413_zpsf5abd34e.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0413_zpsf5abd34e.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0412_zpsd2930c5f.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/stopped%20chamfer%20plane/DSC_0412_zpsd2930c5f.jpg.html)

Stewie;

[bill howes]

" I didn't have any saw nuts on hand so made some from 1/4-28 stainless steel nuts and bolts."
Jeff,
I would be interested in how you made the saw nuts. They look great.

[Jeff Wittrock]

Beautiful saw Stewie!

[Stewie Simpson]

Congrats yourself Jeff. Your backsaw handle turned out real sweet.


regards; Stewie.

[Jeff Wittrock]

Hi Mike. I spent a couple of years focused on just making backsaws. The handle designs are my own.

I then decided I needed a bit of a break from saw making and return to my previous interest, making traditional hand planes. This time with an emphasis on using toothing irons. Here's an example of 1 of those planes.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/toothed%20foreplane/th_DSC_0249_zps27124a34.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/toothed%20foreplane/DSC_0249_zps27124a34.jpg.html) Click on photo to enlarge.


Stewie;

Stewie,

I love the sharp, crisp details of this plane.

[Jeff Wittrock]

" I didn't have any saw nuts on hand so made some from 1/4-28 stainless steel nuts and bolts."
Jeff,
I would be interested in how you made the saw nuts. They look great.

Hello Bill,

I started with a 1/4-28 x 1-1/4 stainless steel hex head bolt. First, I ground the hex head round using a bench grinder. Since the hex head bolt has a round detail on top, it was pretty easy to get it very close to round using the grinder. Next I chucked the bolt up in my drill press and used a file and sand paper to true and polish the outside surface and top. I then slotted the head using a hacksaw and cleaned up with a very thin needle file that I made by grinding one side down so it is thin enough to fit in the slot.

For the slotted nut, I started with 1/4-28 nuts and ground them round as I did with the bolts above. I just locked two of them together on a bolt to serve as a mandrel. After truning them round and polishing, I slotted them as I did with the bolt.

I'm not sure they look as nice as brass saw nuts, but they work in a pinch.

-Jeff

[bill howes]

Thanks Jeff. They look great to me. I'll have to try that,