Waterlox org. sealer over formby's tung oil?

[Jonathan Gennaro]

First off, yes i know formby's tung oil isn't really tung oil but more of a varnish blend. I've used it on alot of projects and it was my go to for the table. Originally I had planned to use this with a johnsons paste wax but discovered Waterlox last night.

Anyways, it's a walnut dining table, and I wiped on two "thin" coats of the formby's tung oil. I've always liked the look of it. Was it a mistake for a dining table? I'm new to sealers, and with everything else I've made I've never had to really worry about the finish. It's always been danish oils, teak oils etc. But this actually needs to work ;)

So its a walnut table. Will it go over the the formby's ok? Will the Org. sealer they sell keep the same characteristics of the formby's?

I can always do a test piece and find out, but just wanted a little advice.

thanks

[Jerry Thompson]

I would stick with Waterlox. Go to their Web site and read all about it.

[Scott Holmes]

Formby's is NOT a vanish blend... It is varnish. So is Waterlox. Different types; both varnish. Waterlox is a phenolic resin / Tung oil varnish and bit harder and much more amber; it will continue to darken with age. Formby's is an alkyd resin / soya oil varnish and is light straw colored and will not dark much with age.

Both are harder varnishes than your run-of-the-mill polys.

Formby's is VERY highly thinned and will require many more coats than the Waterlox.

[Jonathan Gennaro]

Formby's is NOT a vanish blend... It is varnish. So is Waterlox. Different types; both varnish. Waterlox is a phenolic resin / Tung oil varnish and bit harder and much more amber; it will continue to darken with age. Formby's is an alkyd resin / soya oil varnish and is light straw colored and will not dark much with age.

Both are harder varnishes than your run-of-the-mill polys.

Formby's is VERY highly thinned and will require many more coats than the Waterlox.

The man I was WAITING FOR!
Actually the closest answer to my question I could find was a question about this you answered a while back. Reading what you wrote, I did make sure to emphasize that I do understand its not a tung oil ;)

Anyways that aside..

Can I put the Waterlox over the Formby's oil I already applied? I did it yesterday, and it was two light coats.

Will what I want to do work? Or do you have any better advice on a way to protect the wood? OR do I just keep building up coats of the formbys?

[Steve Schoene]

You can apply Waterlox Sealer/Finish varnish over Formby varnish. Since the varnishes are a bit different, I would give the Formby's an extra day to cure before applying a different varnish. Both will be suitable for a dining table--neither would be ideal if it will be abused. Formby's will cost a bit more for the 10 or so coats needed for full protection, but Waterlox will take 7-9 coats and isn't really cheap--but it does come in larger containers. Choose mainly on color, and whether you need to buy an entirely different product. Also note that while you don't need to sand between coats of either of these non-poly varnishes, it's not a bad idea to lightly scuff between coats that have cured a full day. I do recommend you apply either of these varnishes in "sets" of three coats, applying the next after the preceeding is no longer tacky. Then after 3 coats (which would have built a total film about the same as one brushed on coat of "full strength" varnish I would give the set a day to cure and then sand lightly before the next set.

[Jonathan Gennaro]

You can apply Waterlox Sealer/Finish varnish over Formby varnish. Since the varnishes are a bit different, I would give the Formby's an extra day to cure before applying a different varnish. Both will be suitable for a dining table--neither would be ideal if it will be abused. Formby's will cost a bit more for the 10 or so coats needed for full protection, but Waterlox will take 7-9 coats and isn't really cheap--but it does come in larger containers. Choose mainly on color, and whether you need to buy an entirely different product. Also note that while you don't need to sand between coats of either of these non-poly varnishes, it's not a bad idea to lightly scuff between coats that have cured a full day. I do recommend you apply either of these varnishes in "sets" of three coats, applying the next after the preceeding is no longer tacky. Then after 3 coats (which would have built a total film about the same as one brushed on coat of "full strength" varnish I would give the set a day to cure and then sand lightly before the next set.


Thank you so much Steve! I really appreciate it. For the time and money I've put into this table I don't mind spending the extra money for a better product.
Just to clarify. You say it takes around 10 coats. When I do the sets of 3 does that count as one coat? Also does applying it with a 0000 steel wool pad help?

Also when you say a light sand between coats, would something like a 600 grit suffice?

thanks again for everything.

[Scott Holmes]

Waterlox will be darker and will continue to darken with age. The Formby's will not. Applying the 3 set wipe -on is a fool proof method. You may be able to lightly scuff sand ever other set.

I would use up the Formby's and use Waterlox from now on. I don't like mixing varnishes on a surface; makes any repairs very difficult to blend and hide the repair. A light scuff sand with 400-or 600 is enough. LIGHT scuff sand entire tabe top should not take more than a few minutes; NO power sanders.

Steelwool to apply the finish is a very bad idea... you will leave minute shards of steelwool behide... they will be trapped IN your finish... No fniish is completely vapor proof the shard will rust eventually. Would you like brown specks of rusted steelwool IN the finish?

[Rich Engelhardt]

Steelwool to apply the finish is a very bad idea...+1.....
Also - steel wool is loaded with oil to keep it from rusting. You don't want that oil to contaminate your finish material.