Biesemeyer Fence reface and refurb

[Harold Weaver]

I recently picked up a fair condition used white Biesemeyer fence, rail, and tube for $125.00. It's in overall fair to good condition, but since it is going on a fully restored Powermatic 66, it will get the full repaint and refurb. It is the 52 inch version and I will have to make the rear rail. No problem, already picked up the material for that for $20.00 at the local metal supplier. My question is, the fence faces are functional, but have the usual blade marks and laminate chips on them. I want to replace them but am wavering on the best material to make these out of. The originals are Finland Birch ply with laminate over top. I would like to use something a little more, shall we say, pleasing to the eye.

I'd like to use hardwood. Probably Maple would be my first choice. Any ideas on hardwood fence facings that would be the best to use? Maple, Ash, Oak etc.? With that said, I don't want to get too exotic on the hardwood. Just seems that if I am going to redo this thing and put in on a nice brand new shiney PM66 from 1972, I want it to look good as well as be functional and stable. For some reason, MDF just doesn't strike a cord with me on this. Am I on the wrong path with hard wood for the sides? Best type to use?

Harold

[Judson Green]

I'd go with maple or something else closed pored and try to get as close to quarter sawn as possible. I didn't put any real finish on mine just waxed liberally and often with paraffin.

[John Coloccia]

Honestly, I'd lean towards something like MDO or HDO, or something with laminate. It may not look great, but it will be a lot most functional and things will slide easier. It won't collect as much dirt and crud. It will probably be more stable too.

[Matt Day]

I just have a piece of mdf on mine, but I thinks piece of corian or something would look great and function great.

[Michael W. Clark]

UHMW may be a thought (available in different colors). You can get laminate in different colors too. Maybe phenolic faced plywood? Aluminum plate?

One advantage to white or a light color is that you can mark on it with a pencil if you ever need to for stop cuts. I'm sure there are work-arounds though.

Hardwood would be nice too. I would use hard maple, sand it 220 grit+ and then keep it waxed. I use MDF for burying the dado head and agreee I would not like it for a permanent face.

[Judson Green]

Yeah, I wasn't particularly impressed with the maple for a fence board. But it was readily available.

UHMW would excellent.

[Jim Becker]

I'll also suggest that solid stock isn't the best choice for this purpose...it's not as stable as sheet goods. I'd use really good quality veneer plywood that has as many layers as you can source (BB) and the, since aesthetics are important, just edge band the top, front and back edges that are visible to you. It will look great but be nice and stable for the job.

[Harold Weaver]

Thanks for the input. The more I think about the solid hardwood, the more I'm concerned about stability, especially here in Florida where humidity and moisture are king. Heck, even wood rusts down here!!!

I never thought about Corian. That's interesting. I've heard the UMHW can be wavy, has anyone used any of the fences that come with this as fence sides? I guess if all else fails, laminate on ply would do.

Harold

[Judson Green]

Don't worry about the UMHW being wavy, it'll straighten right up when you screw it down to the steel square tube.

[Rick Lizek]

Use whatever you want and you can always change it. HDPE is better than UHMW. It's slicker and not as squishy as UHMW. Sheet goods is are your best choice. Make a pattern sawing fence for your Dados and duplicating parts. Google pattern sawing fence. They called it something different in recent issues of fine woodworking but the traditional name is pattern sawing fence but a must have for woodworking.
http://books.google.com/books?id=nzqwGJJ494QC&pg=PA89&lpg=PA89&dq=pattern+fence+on+table+saw&source=bl&ots=r81bIRJB6y&sig=9oz1srssBymNcKxcsD0qcPmQ3T4&hl=en&sa=X&ei=iiAaVN6gGYiXgwTJyoHwBw&ved=0CDYQ6AEwCQ

[Frederick Skelly]

I have the same fence you describe, laminate nicks included. Whatever you use must be very flat and stable, as others noted. Im fascinted with the idea of corian - very flat and smooth. But Ive never tried to cut corian. And just off my head, Id be concerned about what it would do to my Forrest blade if I forgot to use a sacrificial fence and nicked that corian. (I'll watch this thread and hope to learn though.)
Fred

[Don Jarvie]

The issue you will face is the screws that hold the wood to the face is that they are imbedded so you need to cover the wood so you don't catch the holes when you rip.

I made mine using plywood and laminated over the ply with contact cement. Only hard part is when you trim the laminate around the back of the fence on the inside piece.

If you replace them use what's there as a template so the holes line up.

[Dick Brown]

I have Corian on one of my saws and love it. Flat, slick. drills and cuts easy and nearly unlimited colors and patterns to chose from. Also color coordinate with your ZCI if that is to your liking. I got mine as a chunk of used counter top from the Habitat Restore and have looked for more but a bit hard to find. Yes, it does make great ZCI's.

[Matt Day]

I have a corian ZCI and it's great. Easy material to work with (can be cut by ww'ing blades/bits) and stable. At some point I'll make a fence like I suggested, just haven't got the time right now.