Photographing work

[Alan Kalker]

An article in Fine Woodworking suggested using Halogen work lights with diffusion sheets as a means of getting pretty good light for woodworking photography without breaking the bank. LED work lights are now also available. They cost a bit more but don't get so hot. I am wondering if anyone has any comments on lighting for photography without getting a professional setup?
Thanks

[Ethan Melad]

Most likely you won't find true daylight balanced halogens, which is what you really want. not sure of the LED options, but i suspect there are not many affordable LED @ 15-250+ watts. Getting a few daylight balanced photo floods and some metal clip lights would be my suggestion for a cheap setup.

[Jim German]

Assuming you are using a camera that lets you adjust the white balance, you don't need daylight balanced lights. You just need to get alot of light that diffuse and is all the same color. The camera can compensate if they are all halogen lights, or all bluish LEDs, as long as their isnt a mix.

[Alan Kalker]

Assuming you are using a camera that lets you adjust the white balance, you don't need daylight balanced lights. You just need to get alot of light that diffuse and is all the same color.

So keep all the light of the same type and quality. Thanks, that makes sense.

By alot of light, how much is alot in lumens for a typical furniture shot?

[James Conrad]

Here is a simple and cheap setup that works: http://amzn.com/B003WLY24O

[Dale Murray]

I shoot professionally.

Purpose of diffusion:
A light bulb is like the sun on a clear day; very high contrast, specular highlights. The diffusion cloth - I used ripstop nylon in my DIY days - is like an over cast day; subtle shadows, smooth transitions.

LED:
I have not used them. I have read in years past that some LED lights do not have the full spectrum of light that a glowing filament has but that was years ago. Also, those comments came from professional photographers who could not afford to have anything "wrong" in their photos.

White balance (light temperature):
Most cameras have various standard settings; sunny, indoor/incandescent, fluorescent, cloudy, etc.
Most basic applications have white balance adjustments too.
What is important is all your lights be the same temperature; a 100w halogen light has a different level of yellow than a 500w halogen light.
If you are using bulbs then you have soft white, white, daylight, etc. These are all terms for white balance/temperature.
Whatever you use just make sure they are in the same color family or the same wattage to minimize issues.

What would I do if I were a woodworker and wanted to take decent pictures of my stuff?
1 - Use a tripod. All of these lights will not allow for fast shutter speed, a tripod eliminates the need for fast shutter speed or the need to use high ISO.
2 - Buy 3-4 T-8 4' light fixtures and figure out a way to mount them vertically, and I could always use more light around the shop so these could pull double duty. The electronic ballasts are fast enough that flicker is of no concern.*
3 - Rip Stop nylon as for diffusion. It is not expensive, is durable, can be thrown in the washer if it gets funky.

*The old t-12 fixtures flicker at 60hz, in order shoot a photo under those lights you must have a shutter speed of less than 1/60s or you will get some very nasty coloration.

[Dale Murray]

So keep all the light of the same type and quality. Thanks, that makes sense.

By alot of light, how much is alot in lumens for a typical furniture shot?

If you use a tripod the amount of light becomes less important.

[Ethan Melad]

This is true. I forget that most people don't still shoot film like I do...
And color-correcting when printing is way more of a pain than it is to get the light balanced correctly when shooting.


Assuming you are using a camera that lets you adjust the white balance, you don't need daylight balanced lights. You just need to get alot of light that diffuse and is all the same color. The camera can compensate if they are all halogen lights, or all bluish LEDs, as long as their isnt a mix.

[Bill Huber]

You did not say what camera you will be using and that will make a big difference. Some cameras you can set a custom W/B and some you can't, I use an ExpoDisc to set a custom W/B on my camera when needed.
http://www.expoimaging.com/product-overview.php?cat_id=1

If I am shooting in JPG mode I use a custom W/B but I normally shoot in RAW format and correct the W/B in LightRoom.
If your camera can shoot in its RAW format that would be the best, you can control the W/B much better with the raw data then you can with a jpg image.

You can also get a color checker card, you put that in a test shot and then use a white picker in your software to pick the white.

So you can use just about any blubs you want just so they are all the same and take a test shot with a color checker card of some type or set a custom W/B.

Like has been stated, use a tripod and a cable release or self-timer, you can control the depth of field much better. Higher F stops give you better depth of field and lower ISO give you less noise but to get there you can not hand hold the camera, the shutter speed will just be to slow.

[Jim German]

What's your final goal here? Are you just looking for some good pictures for a website? What kind of camera are you using?
I ended up getting a setup like this. (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/906651-REG/elinchrom_el_20852kit_d_lite_rx_4_400w.html) I fooled around with worklights and other DIY type solutions and realized I was spending alot of money to try and make something work that was never gonna be good.

[Alan Kalker]

First, thanks for all the help.

- The camera is a Sony NEX 5 with interchangeable lens.
- These shots are intended primarily for posting on a web page I hope to set up. They are not intended for print.
- I have Photoshop CS5.
Thanks
Alan

[Jerry Thompson]

I have a Sony A 100. When I want the right white balance I have a filter that goes over the lens. The directions have the info on what shutter speed and F-Stop to use. I set the white balance selector so it will use the values when I fire the shutter. I then can shoot with that lighting and be within a very few degrees Kelvin of "on the money."
I have also found that using Adobe PSE 12 I can go to Lighting Adjustments, the window comes up with the eye dropper of which there are three selections, black, white, grey. There is usually a black area in a shot or maybe a white area. Choose the dropper and move over to your color of choice in the photo and click. Instantly you will see the change.
I have used both methods for white balance to achieve correct color. I have checked after adjustment by using auto color correction and have seen no change.
The filter can also be used with your flash by following the recommended settings and shoot into a mirror.

[Jim Matthews]

Is there any chance you can shoot near a window, to bounce natural light?

The current crop of CCD cameras are very sensitive,
you just need a stable place to prop them - if you have an even light source.

I bought a folding display board from Staples to act as a bounce.
I make photos of small items in the morning, near the window facing East.

The pro lighting rigs are more valuable than the stuff I shoot.
Hard for me to justify that.

[dennis davidson]

When I am dealing with troublesome light/color I place an 18% gray card somewhere in the view where it doesn't obscure what your photographing, then when clicking on the eye dropper in PS the color is usually perfect. CFL's are a problem though. If you don't have a gray card even a sheet of white paper will work.