Upgrades to Ridgid R4512--cast iron wings and Vega fence

[Don Parker]

I bit the bullet and upgraded my Ridgid R4512 by adding Sawstop cast iron extension wings and a Vega Utility 26 fence. I installed everything yesterday (it took several hours).

First off, these are GREAT upgrades for this saw, and I am completely happy with the result. The reason for this thread is to pass along some suggestions to those who might want to do the same.

The main preparation for this project, other than buying the parts, is to get ready to do some drilling and tapping of holes in cast iron (the table saw top) and steel (the fence rails). I had some taps, but not the right sizes, so I used a Harbor Freight coupon to buy a more complete set of metric and SAE taps/dies and some extra drill bits. You need a 17/64" drill bit for nearly all of the new threaded holes in both projects, a metric M8-1.25 tap for the new holes in the table saw top, and an SAE 5/16-18 tap for the new holes in the fence rails. You will also need a 1/2" bit for new holes in the back fence rail and an 11/64" bit for the rear hold down bracket on the fence.

It may be apparent, but I had to think about this a little: it is better to strip off the old rails and extension wings, then install the new extension wings, then install the new fence last.

For the new extension wings, one might be tempted to try to use some existing holes in either the table saw top or the Sawstop wings. Don't try. This is wasted effort. The table saw uses three holes per side and the new wings use four holes per side, and they have supports underneath that make a three hole conversion difficult. Moreover, the holes are at different distances from the top surface. It is best to just measure out where to drill and tap new holes in the table saw top. The drilling takes some time (eight holes in cast iron), but the tapping is very easy and quick. Cover the left side motor housing vents with masking tape so you don't feed cast iron shavings down there. Leave the tape on until after the wing is bolted on (you could drop bolts or washers down there otherwise).

Lining up and bolting the right side wing is only difficult because of the weight of the wing itself; if you measured right, everything goes together easily. The left side is another matter. The motor housing is very much in the way. I used one of those long handle, hinged ratchets to tighten the middle two bolts on the left side table. I'm not sure how else somebody could do it.

Once all four bolts are in on both sides, alignment is pretty easy.

On the fence, it is actually a blessing that the holes for the rails don't line up with anything on the R4512, because that allows you to configure the fence exactly how you want it. In my shop, I need very little ripping width, and I don't want the rails taking up too much space, so I have a lot more of the rails on the left than anyone else would want. Since I need new holes anyway, I might as well have what is ideal for me.

The holes on the far outside of the front of the saw (the body of the saw, not the new wings) are perfect for the brackets for the front rail. Just put the front rail brackets in those holes, put the front rail on the brackets, mark where the new holes should be, and fire away. Masking tape aids in marking holes on the rails. While you are marking for those holes on the front rail, you should also mark for new holes for the on/off switch box, which needs to hang from the front rail. Make sure to use the right tap for those bolts! If you re-use the old bolts, they are the metric M8 bolts, not SAE 5/16.

For the back rail, you will need new holes, based on where you want to place the back rail (which depends on where you put the front rail). Those holes need to be big, so as to allow for height adjustment. 1/2" worked for me. One challenge for attaching the back rails is that the holes in the back of the saw are threaded. You can either open these holes up a bit in order to accommodate the bolts that come with the fence, or just substitute slightly thinner bolts. I substituted 1/4"-20 bolts (I was tired of drilling). They work fine.

All I need now is a replacement measuring tape for the front rail, which is easy to buy and install later.

That's about it. I am extremely happy with the decision to upgrade the R4512 in these two ways, and I highly recommend both. Just be comfortable with drilling and tapping before you decide to go this route.

[Dave Cullen]

I did the same conversion to my old Craftsman saw. Cast iron wings off eBay, and a used Vega 26" utility fence. Be aware that aligning the fence is tricky. The head has a bit of slop in it until it's clamped tight. You need to hold the fence tight against your miter slot reference, then clamp the head down, then tighten the screws.

Dunno what wings you used, but mine are webbed and there's no place to put my pencil now :p

[Don Parker]

For alignment of the fence, here is what I did:

First, I made sure that the saw blade is as parallel to the right miter slot as possible. I have a Betterley Una-Gauge, which is a great help (any similar dial indicator gadget will do). I then flipped the Una-Gauge around in the slot and put the fence close enough to engage the dial indicator. I locked the fence down. I then loosened all four of the bolts that connect the fence to the fence head. I slid the Una-Gauge up and down the fence and made little adjustments to the fence until the dial indicator kept the same reading all the way up and down the fence (within a few thousandths). I then carefully tightened all four of the connecting bolts, and rechecked for parallel before tightening them completely. This has been the easiest alignment for me in a long time!

As for which cast iron wings, mine are new and sold by Sawstop as an accessory to their contractor's saw. They fit the R4512 pretty well (except for the hole configuration). They are about 1/16" shorter than 27". If you line up the holes right, that difference can be in the back instead of the front. The front edge of each wing is beveled, but it is less of a bevel than is on the R4512. They are wider than the original sheet steel wings (12" instead of 10"). They are smooth, polished cast iron with webbing underneath, so you wind up with a 27" X 44" smooth work surface.

This project doubled the original cost of the saw, so some might question the wisdom of the upgrade. I don't. This is a good saw made great by these additions. Buying a better table saw with a more precise fence usually means buying a bigger saw than I have room for. Upgrading the R4512 gives me precision on a smaller, more mobile footprint, which is exactly what I needed.

[Dave Cullen]

I have a dial indicator gadget also, and used it to get my Vega aligned as well as it can be yesterday. Silly fence would change by .010" when the 4 bolts were tightened securely, even though I used a cross tightening pattern and torqued slowly. Still not sure what that's about, but it's within .005" front to back now and I'm calling that good.

My upgrade came after using the saw for 30 years as it was. Long overdue.

[Don Parker]

From what I felt, it doesn't take much to move the Vega fence if it is not bolted down to the fence head. In fact, the pressure of the dial indicator was almost enough to move it! I think it has to do with the fact that the low friction foot that sits on the back rail is REALLY low friction. Plus, with all of that wiggle room for the four bolts, the front end of the fence is almost as likely to move as the back end. I snugged up one of the bolts a little more than I originally thought was needed, so as to create a hinge point, then re-slid the dial indicator. That seemed to work well, so real tightening of all four bolts happened after that.

Having a fence that just works right, without nudging it and teasing it into cooperating, is pretty refreshing, isn't it?

[Charlie Kocourek]

I am really surprised to hear about your collective experience with Vega fences. I have the 50" Pro version on my Saw Stop and I LOVE it! It is easy to adjust in small increments and it is as smooth and solid as can be. My fence is about 15 years old. I liked it so much that I moved it from my old saw when I got the Saw Stop. Maybe they just don't make them like they used to.

[Don Parker]

I don't think surprise is in order. I love my new Vega, too, for all the same reasons. If I gave you the impression that I didn't like it, I apologize for not being clear.