Don Parker
09-14-2014, 9:37 AM
I bit the bullet and upgraded my Ridgid R4512 by adding Sawstop cast iron extension wings and a Vega Utility 26 fence. I installed everything yesterday (it took several hours).
First off, these are GREAT upgrades for this saw, and I am completely happy with the result. The reason for this thread is to pass along some suggestions to those who might want to do the same.
The main preparation for this project, other than buying the parts, is to get ready to do some drilling and tapping of holes in cast iron (the table saw top) and steel (the fence rails). I had some taps, but not the right sizes, so I used a Harbor Freight coupon to buy a more complete set of metric and SAE taps/dies and some extra drill bits. You need a 17/64" drill bit for nearly all of the new threaded holes in both projects, a metric M8-1.25 tap for the new holes in the table saw top, and an SAE 5/16-18 tap for the new holes in the fence rails. You will also need a 1/2" bit for new holes in the back fence rail and an 11/64" bit for the rear hold down bracket on the fence.
It may be apparent, but I had to think about this a little: it is better to strip off the old rails and extension wings, then install the new extension wings, then install the new fence last.
For the new extension wings, one might be tempted to try to use some existing holes in either the table saw top or the Sawstop wings. Don't try. This is wasted effort. The table saw uses three holes per side and the new wings use four holes per side, and they have supports underneath that make a three hole conversion difficult. Moreover, the holes are at different distances from the top surface. It is best to just measure out where to drill and tap new holes in the table saw top. The drilling takes some time (eight holes in cast iron), but the tapping is very easy and quick. Cover the left side motor housing vents with masking tape so you don't feed cast iron shavings down there. Leave the tape on until after the wing is bolted on (you could drop bolts or washers down there otherwise).
Lining up and bolting the right side wing is only difficult because of the weight of the wing itself; if you measured right, everything goes together easily. The left side is another matter. The motor housing is very much in the way. I used one of those long handle, hinged ratchets to tighten the middle two bolts on the left side table. I'm not sure how else somebody could do it.
Once all four bolts are in on both sides, alignment is pretty easy.
On the fence, it is actually a blessing that the holes for the rails don't line up with anything on the R4512, because that allows you to configure the fence exactly how you want it. In my shop, I need very little ripping width, and I don't want the rails taking up too much space, so I have a lot more of the rails on the left than anyone else would want. Since I need new holes anyway, I might as well have what is ideal for me.
The holes on the far outside of the front of the saw (the body of the saw, not the new wings) are perfect for the brackets for the front rail. Just put the front rail brackets in those holes, put the front rail on the brackets, mark where the new holes should be, and fire away. Masking tape aids in marking holes on the rails. While you are marking for those holes on the front rail, you should also mark for new holes for the on/off switch box, which needs to hang from the front rail. Make sure to use the right tap for those bolts! If you re-use the old bolts, they are the metric M8 bolts, not SAE 5/16.
For the back rail, you will need new holes, based on where you want to place the back rail (which depends on where you put the front rail). Those holes need to be big, so as to allow for height adjustment. 1/2" worked for me. One challenge for attaching the back rails is that the holes in the back of the saw are threaded. You can either open these holes up a bit in order to accommodate the bolts that come with the fence, or just substitute slightly thinner bolts. I substituted 1/4"-20 bolts (I was tired of drilling). They work fine.
All I need now is a replacement measuring tape for the front rail, which is easy to buy and install later.
That's about it. I am extremely happy with the decision to upgrade the R4512 in these two ways, and I highly recommend both. Just be comfortable with drilling and tapping before you decide to go this route.
First off, these are GREAT upgrades for this saw, and I am completely happy with the result. The reason for this thread is to pass along some suggestions to those who might want to do the same.
The main preparation for this project, other than buying the parts, is to get ready to do some drilling and tapping of holes in cast iron (the table saw top) and steel (the fence rails). I had some taps, but not the right sizes, so I used a Harbor Freight coupon to buy a more complete set of metric and SAE taps/dies and some extra drill bits. You need a 17/64" drill bit for nearly all of the new threaded holes in both projects, a metric M8-1.25 tap for the new holes in the table saw top, and an SAE 5/16-18 tap for the new holes in the fence rails. You will also need a 1/2" bit for new holes in the back fence rail and an 11/64" bit for the rear hold down bracket on the fence.
It may be apparent, but I had to think about this a little: it is better to strip off the old rails and extension wings, then install the new extension wings, then install the new fence last.
For the new extension wings, one might be tempted to try to use some existing holes in either the table saw top or the Sawstop wings. Don't try. This is wasted effort. The table saw uses three holes per side and the new wings use four holes per side, and they have supports underneath that make a three hole conversion difficult. Moreover, the holes are at different distances from the top surface. It is best to just measure out where to drill and tap new holes in the table saw top. The drilling takes some time (eight holes in cast iron), but the tapping is very easy and quick. Cover the left side motor housing vents with masking tape so you don't feed cast iron shavings down there. Leave the tape on until after the wing is bolted on (you could drop bolts or washers down there otherwise).
Lining up and bolting the right side wing is only difficult because of the weight of the wing itself; if you measured right, everything goes together easily. The left side is another matter. The motor housing is very much in the way. I used one of those long handle, hinged ratchets to tighten the middle two bolts on the left side table. I'm not sure how else somebody could do it.
Once all four bolts are in on both sides, alignment is pretty easy.
On the fence, it is actually a blessing that the holes for the rails don't line up with anything on the R4512, because that allows you to configure the fence exactly how you want it. In my shop, I need very little ripping width, and I don't want the rails taking up too much space, so I have a lot more of the rails on the left than anyone else would want. Since I need new holes anyway, I might as well have what is ideal for me.
The holes on the far outside of the front of the saw (the body of the saw, not the new wings) are perfect for the brackets for the front rail. Just put the front rail brackets in those holes, put the front rail on the brackets, mark where the new holes should be, and fire away. Masking tape aids in marking holes on the rails. While you are marking for those holes on the front rail, you should also mark for new holes for the on/off switch box, which needs to hang from the front rail. Make sure to use the right tap for those bolts! If you re-use the old bolts, they are the metric M8 bolts, not SAE 5/16.
For the back rail, you will need new holes, based on where you want to place the back rail (which depends on where you put the front rail). Those holes need to be big, so as to allow for height adjustment. 1/2" worked for me. One challenge for attaching the back rails is that the holes in the back of the saw are threaded. You can either open these holes up a bit in order to accommodate the bolts that come with the fence, or just substitute slightly thinner bolts. I substituted 1/4"-20 bolts (I was tired of drilling). They work fine.
All I need now is a replacement measuring tape for the front rail, which is easy to buy and install later.
That's about it. I am extremely happy with the decision to upgrade the R4512 in these two ways, and I highly recommend both. Just be comfortable with drilling and tapping before you decide to go this route.