45 Degree Edge on 1/8" x 3/4" Aluminum Barstock

[John Baum]

I'm faced with the task of milling one edge of two 21" long pieces of 1/8" x 3/4" 6061 aluminum barstock to 45 degrees. The pieces will be used to hold down the edges of a sheet of translucent diffuser in front some T5 fluorescent strip light fixtures set into one corner of our master bath. They will eventually be screwed into hardwood, so I can screw them to a board to make handling easier.

I have mostly woodworking tools. I have a couple of simple steel 1/4" shank 1/2 in. x 90 deg. V-Groove router bits. If I mounted one of these on my router talbe, would it work if I only removed 1/16" of material per pass?

I am reluctant to use the 1/2" shank 2.25" piloted carbide chamfering bit I used to edge the hardwood. I tried cutting aluminum with a carbide table saw blade once and quickly saw how that chipped away at the teeth.

Is there another approach I should consider?

thanks,

John

[Dennis Ford]

6061 aluminum is not hard to machine. I have had good results with cutting thick pieces on bandsaw and tablesaw (carbide tipped blade), thin stock can chatter and cause problems. The 1/8" x 3/4" size could be a problem but mounting it to a board should work (use plenty of screws). I would prefer carbide router bits to HSS and the 1/2" shank is a plus. Wear safety goggles and do not be timid about feeding the stock. Clean-up will be a pain as the chips go everywhere.

[Rick Lizek]

I'm faced with the task of milling one edge of two 21" long pieces of 1/8" x 3/4" 6061 aluminum barstock to 45 degrees. The pieces will be used to hold down the edges of a sheet of translucent diffuser in front some T5 fluorescent strip light fixtures set into one corner of our master bath. They will eventually be screwed into hardwood, so I can screw them to a board to make handling easier.

I have mostly woodworking tools. I have a couple of simple steel 1/4" shank 1/2 in. x 90 deg. V-Groove router bits. If I mounted one of these on my router talbe, would it work if I only removed 1/16" of material per pass?

I am reluctant to use the 1/2" shank 2.25" piloted carbide chamfering bit I used to edge the hardwood. I tried cutting aluminum with a carbide table saw blade once and quickly saw how that chipped away at the teeth.

Is there another approach I should consider?

thanks,

John


I spent a number of years working as a metalsmith and introduced the table saw to the guys in the shop for cutting nonferrous and never had a problem with teeth. A negative hook blade used on miter saws and radial arm saws is the correct. Around 60 teeth. Never use a junk blade. I used a good blade and cut miles of brass, aluminum and zinc. A face shield is mandatory as the chips are warm and not hot. No chance of starting a fire either.

[Bruce Page]

A router table and 45° chamfer bit will also do the job.