Counter top laminating

[Jeff Monson]

Going to do a counter top for my dad next week. Looking for a little insight on how to make it go smoothly. We are going to put a new laminate on the existing counter. The existing top is painted but is solid and should be a good candidate to do a laminate overlay. Plan on using contact cement for adhesive. Questions, do you usually do the front and side strips before the top or vice versa? How much excess is good so the flush cut bit can do a decent job? Any advice on seams?

BTW this top is all square edges, no curves.

[John Sanford]

Top and bottom first. Yes, bottom. Make sure you laminate the underside as well, otherwise you'll have an imbalance in moisture absorption rates, with "not good" effect over time.

1/4" or less overhang is good, in part it depends on the diameter of the bit you use for flushing. Smaller bit calls for less overhang, which will mean less risk of badly snapping out when flush trimming.

[Jerome Stanek]

We always do the bottom first then the front and sides and last is the top.

[Jim Andrew]

Be sure you have a coarse cut file along with your laminate trimmer, as you can't get close to the wall with your trimmer. And you have to fit the top to the wall so you need to use a shear or maybe a plane to fit the laminate. I have used a block plane to take a little off the edge. I always fit the big pieces first, then use the leftovers for the edges. If you are going to have a seam, usually the factory edges are pretty good, otherwise have a straight edge ready and use your laminate trimmer to put a good edge on both pieces. And when you glue the 2nd piece, try to glue the piece so it puts a little pressure on the joint to make it tight. I always do the edges first, trim and use a belt sander to make sure the top is flat, but it is hard to do on a top when it is in place. When I redo my kitchen, plan to take the old top off, use it as a pattern to build a new top up, and then use corner blocks in the cabinets so I can just screw the top down. The old top is nailed to the top of the cabinets.

[Peter Kelly]

We always do the bottom first then the front and sides and last is the top.Seconded. This is the correct way.

Also, get a Plasti-Cut file for finishing. Freshly trimmed laminate edges are sharp and need to be dressed.
http://www.specialtytools.com/categories/tools/plastic-laminate-tools/files-trimmers/10-all-purpose-files.html

[Vince Shriver]

We always do the bottom first then the front and sides and last is the top.

Yep, that's the way we did it when I worked in the trade. With the top glued over the front edge, and the front edge glued over the edge on the bottom laminate, it helps to keep the joint out of harms way, if that makes sense. Also looks better.

[Jeff Duncan]

Only thing I'll add is that a painted surface may not be a "good candidate" for laminating. Contact adhesive is pretty nasty stuff, I'b be at least a bit concerned about it weakening the paint under the laminate and therefore weakening the bond to the substrate. Personally I'd remove the paint first and have peace of mind that it's stuck to a clean substrate.

good luck,
JeffD

[Jim Andrew]

I was wondering about the paint as well, but the last top I built, used the weldwood adhesive, which was water based. Surprisingly, the glue held good, so maybe if you use that adhesive it will not bother the paint. Expect the oil based glue would. Way to find out would be just to put some of the adhesive on the painted surface and try it in a small area.