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Doug Hobkirk
09-08-2014, 12:03 PM
Showing my ignorance - I know I am ignoring different wood species and end grain and figured wood and a thousand other issues, but I will understand better if I can get a better handle on the general rules (if there can even be "general rules").

Are these the typical Neanderthal steps in preparing lumber after you've selected the wood and joined boards and cut it to size:



You typically proceed through a series of planes in the initial prep of a board -

a scrub plane in severe cases to decrease thickness

mostly at roughly a 45 degree angle


long planes (starting with a #8, #7, #5 - determined mostly by the length of the board?)

​at an angle if the board is very uneven, or if you used a scrub plane


and work down to a smoothing plane

like ​a #3 or #4



If the wood is to be painted, it would be sanded to about 180 grit (to give it tooth)
If it's to be stained

use a scraper to effectively burnish the wood if it's a soft wood?



Do you use your planes (finishing planes and scrapers) during or after assembly to smooth joints?

Thank you for educating a heathen dabbler who has invaded your sanctuary!

Warren Mickley
09-08-2014, 12:40 PM
1. Plane the face flat. jack plane with the grain.
2. True the face with a trying plane with the grain.
3. Plane an edge with jack plane and trying plane (or jointer) flat and square to the face.
4. Cut and plane to length.
5. Plane to thickness.
6. Cut to width and plane square to face.
7. Do joinery , moulding, carving etc.
8. Smooth plane with the grain to clean the wood just prior to gluing or just prior to finishing.

Jim Koepke
09-08-2014, 1:05 PM
I notice the lack of sandpaper in Warrens sequence.

I don't use much either since learning to sharpen a plane iron.

If you want a little tooth on the surface for a finish to adhere, just use the Paul Sellers 'trick' of sharpening your blade with 220 grit paper.

jtk

David Weaver
09-08-2014, 1:32 PM
1. Plane the face flat. jack plane with the grain.
2. True the face with a trying plane with the grain.
3. Plane an edge with jack plane and trying plane (or jointer) flat and square to the face.
4. Cut and plane to length.
5. Plane to thickness.
6. Cut to width and plane square to face.
7. Do joinery , moulding, carving etc.
8. Smooth plane with the grain to clean the wood just prior to gluing or just prior to finishing.

That pretty much covers it!

Pat Barry
09-08-2014, 1:44 PM
I think step 4 should just be cut to length unless Warren means to plane the end grain. I would plane the end grain last but that's my process.

Jim Matthews
09-08-2014, 2:28 PM
I would add one proviso, to the first step.

Plane the CUPPED face, first - that way your plane has two points of contact.
Otherwise, you can get a smooth but curved surface.

Harold Burrell
09-08-2014, 2:35 PM
I would add one proviso, to the first step.

Plane the CUPPED face, first - that way your plane has two points of contact.
Otherwise, you can get a smooth but curved surface.

ooooh...that's good to know!

Judson Green
09-08-2014, 4:33 PM
I would add one proviso, to the first step.

Plane the CUPPED face, first - that way your plane has two points of contact.
Otherwise, you can get a smooth but curved surface.

I generally find which face lays best on the bench (least rocking), using shims if necessary but trying to be minimal and just go with it from there.

But do need to remember to check more frequently if planing the humped face.

Judson Green
09-08-2014, 4:44 PM
1. Plane the face flat. jack plane with the grain.
2. True the face with a trying plane with the grain.
3. Plane an edge with jack plane and trying plane (or jointer) flat and square to the face.
4. Cut and plane to length.
5. Plane to thickness.
6. Cut to width and plane square to face.
7. Do joinery , moulding, carving etc.
8. Smooth plane with the grain to clean the wood just prior to gluing or just prior to finishing.


At your step one, after scrubing down the really out of true parts, I usually plane in a wide X back and forth across the board, not with the grain. I do usually end up with some blow out at the back (the far edge), but generally it gets removed anyway.

I guess I thought this was the way it was done. Is this procedure wrong? Or less right?