For the people that do veneering

[Jay Jolliffe]

Looking for the best way to do this. I have to make a table 3' x 6'....I was going to make it solid Mahogany but got talked out of that by someone here. So I laminated 3/4 mdf for the top to 1/2" birch plywood for the bottom. I glued a 1'' Mahogany edge all around. Then veneered both sides across the blank with Mahogany veneer. Now for the top which will be Mahogany veneer I have to cut in a maple design on the Island I live on. I know I have to do it in sections & not try yo do it in one piece. I'll apply that to the front & veneer the back also length ways instead of across. Any pointers would be appreciated. I've done small stuff without a problem but this is a little different....This the image I have it cut into the top veneer.296033

[Chris Padilla]

So you've already adhered the mahogany veneer to your substrate (3/4" MDF + 1/2" BB?) top and bottom? The time to inlay a map would have been before you veneered the mahogany or at least that is how I would have done it. It is much easier to cut thin veneer (with a sharp razor or scroll saw technique) to do such things to create the design and then veneer the whole thing onto the substrate.

Now you'll have to go with a router technique. The Wood Whisper, Marc Spagnuolo, has an episode on doing this technique. Search his site and get comfy for 45 minutes watching his video. I'll post it later if I can find it as I just watched it a couple weeks ago. David Marks teaches a course at his shop in Santa Rosa, CA, on this router technique and also the double-bevel technique. I took a class from Paul Schurch (at David Marks' studio) who does a packet-cutting technique and it would have worked perfectly, perhaps, for your job.

[Chris Padilla]

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/router-based-inlay/

Okay, so it wasn't that hard to find again.

[Jay Jolliffe]

I haven't adhered the final layer...It has two layers, one across the table & the finished one will be length ways....

[Chris Padilla]

Oh, I see. So you are veneering two layers of mahogany veneer for your table top...cross-grain to each other? Ok, cool. So you DO have a veneer in which you can cut into to inlay.

I can't possibly explain all the details behind Paul's "packet-cutting" technique but I'd suggest you order his DVD and Companion booklet from his site:

http://www.schurchwoodwork.com/index.html Get the "Marquetry" one...not the Decorative Veneering one.

I took a 3 or 4 day course from him to learn this.

The real basics of the technique use a scrollsaw to cut out the pattern so that in itself limits the physical size of the pattern to a certain degree but there are (decorative?) ways around that.

Imagine the cardboard backing you often see on pads of paper. It is usually a brown somewhat heavy-ish paper stock. You can get large sheets of this at art supply stores.

You take your pattern and spray glue it to the cardboard. You take another sheet of the cardboard and hinge it like a book with tape. Within this cardboard sandwich, you place your various sheets of veneer in whatever orientations and in whatever locations you want. You secure the "packet" and then proceed to cut it out with a scrollsaw. You also include your background veneer. In your case, it would be the mahogany veneer. As you can see, size may be a challenge here depending upon how you wish to lay things out.

Anyway, this is one way to approach it. It would require some practice before you try it on your project.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?215457-Inlay-Marquetry-Class I posted about this class earlier this year.

[Max Neu]

I often use a scroll saw. But if the piece is too big for the saw,then I make a 1/4" template with the scroll saw, then use a router with an inlay kit to copy it.Just remember to oversize the template by about 7/16" if you use a router inlay.

[Alan Lightstone]

I would do it just how Chris describes. But again, though I would have loved to have had a course from Paul Schurch, I have watched his DVDs many times, and employed the techniques. Worth buying if you have the time to see him demonstrate it.

Otherwise the router technique does work, but I find it more difficult.

[Jay Jolliffe]

I've done the scroll saw trick by stacking the veneer's & having the table set an an angle. Work great but I can't see it working with a piece of veneer 6' x 2' ...I have also the inlay kit in the past on a thicker veneer & glued it to a sub strait with paper in between so it's easy to part the pieces. I can't see that working on regular thickness veneer that's not on the thick side. So I guess I'll be cutting it out by hand...Not looking forward to that but if I take my time it should be ok....I was told there was no time limit on the table so I've got the rest of my life :rolleyes:

[Max Neu]

Jay,
I use the router inlay kit on thin veneer all the time.I think it's the easiest and most accurate way to inlay veneer.

[Chris Padilla]

Jay,

If you're careful with cutting up the 6' x 2' veneer, this packet cutting technique can be employed and you can piece everything back together and you'll never see the cut lines. The trick is to use a very sharp razor (Paul sells surgical razors...better than a Xacto) but it does take practice. However, it sounds like you have time so.... :) Best of luck whichever way you go and do post pics of your progress.

[Jay Jolliffe]

Does anyone know if someone here can do transferable letters/words that I could adhere to the table & urethane over....Maybe around 1/8" tall ....

[Tony Joyce]

Does anyone know if someone here can do transferable letters/words that I could adhere to the table & urethane over....Maybe around 1/8" tall ....



That would most likely be a water slide decal, which you can make yourself with the correct paper & a printer.