Help aligning Jessem Dowel Jig (am really lost)

[Paulh Tremblay]

I can't figure out how to proceed drilling holes with the Jessem dowel jig. 295934

As you can see, the rods that extend the capacity of the jig are on the wrong side. I can drill the first two holes and those will be aligned, but I won't be able to align the next 3 holes. I can't remove the rods without removing the index hole, and once I remove that, I lose my reference.

It did occur to me that I could remove one rod, unscrew the second rod with the indexing hole, and attach it to the other side, but it seems dubious everything will still line up exactly. For one thing, I am not sure I completely screwed in the rods, so if I screwed them just a bit more in on the other side, I would not get alignment.

I thought I understood this jig. I have been puzzling over how to proceed for 45 minutes.

Help!

[Jay Hart]

Here's a video that might help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-ErCyB9w3s&list=UUj0iZCWY06RxXHA2nCDqx1w&index=6

[Cary Falk]

I am assuming that you already drilled the 1st piece and that is where you set the spacing. If that is the case, go back to the original piece that you drilled and use the drill bit and pin to set up the spacing on the othe side. Put the jig over one hole and put in the drill bit to hold the position. Screw in the rods in the other side and slide on the spacing block. Drop the pin through the block into the other hole to hold the position and lock everything down. I hope that makes sense.

[Paulh Tremblay]

I think I follow you, but that can't be the normal way this jig operates. This is a 250 dollar jig, and I have to perform a workaround?

[Cary Falk]

I guess I don't see it as a work around. Maybe Bill will chime in. I think he uses it more than anybody.

[Bill Huber]

I can't figure out how to proceed drilling holes with the Jessem dowel jig. 295934

As you can see, the rods that extend the capacity of the jig are on the wrong side. I can drill the first two holes and those will be aligned, but I won't be able to align the next 3 holes. I can't remove the rods without removing the index hole, and once I remove that, I lose my reference.

It did occur to me that I could remove one rod, unscrew the second rod with the indexing hole, and attach it to the other side, but it seems dubious everything will still line up exactly. For one thing, I am not sure I completely screwed in the rods, so if I screwed them just a bit more in on the other side, I would not get alignment.

I thought I understood this jig. I have been puzzling over how to proceed for 45 minutes.

Help!

First thing, does the jig not have a set of holes on each side for the rods?

From looking at the way you have it set I would say you are going to drill some holes and then you want to move the jig to the right. So if you line the jig up with the left side and drill the holes, then put the rods on the left side and space it out the way you want then drill the next set of holes

What will the matting part be, butt to this, 90° to this part?

You do not have to use both rods and they do not have to be screwed into the jig. I just use one rod and turn it around so the threaded part is away from the jig (image 5), lock it down with the set screws to the spacing I want and that is it.

I am not sure which way you are going and what holes have been drilled but the jig is easy to use once you understand the basics of reference face and edges and ALWAYS use them.

We can work on it more if you need too, just PM me and we can go over every little part of the jig and how I use it.

295981295980295982295983295984295985295986

[Paulh Tremblay]

I am doing 90 degree joints, and have already drilled the holes for the face board. I have to start on the left side in order to use the same reference face and edges. The jig is set correctly for the first set of holes (I believe). But as the picture shows, the step rods are on the wrong side. If I remove the step rods, I will eliminate the reference, right? Or can I just unscrew them from one side and screw them into the other and get accurate results?

Thanks for your help. If you need, I can include more pictures.

[Paulh Tremblay]

I guess I don't see it as a work around. Maybe Bill will chime in. I think he uses it more than anybody.

If that is the way to set it up, and it works, then I will use that method. Is that what you do?

[Paulh Tremblay]

Here is another picture of the holes i have already drilled:296002

Hopefully this explains my setup.

[Matt Day]

You have to move the rods to the other side. Use your existing holes to realign the pin, use the drillbit in the jig and the pin in the rod then tighten it down to get your distance again.

Funny I am giving advice on this, because just yesterday I had the same conundrum, and thanks to Bill's pictures above, I now understand it. Read through his post with the pictures again, and I think you will understand it. I plan to take his advice and just use one rod not threaded into the jig. That way there is no realigning needed, just use it like a stop block and but the jig against the rod.

[Bill Huber]

I am still not sure I see the problem.....

In the first image why not just turn the jig 180°

First image what is the reference surface?
Second image what is the reference surface?

We will get there it just takes me a while to get it in my head what is all going on.

I will go out to the shop and play a little with it.

[Paulh Tremblay]

I am still not sure I see the problem.....

In the first image why not just turn the jig 180°

.

If I turn the jib 180 degrees, then I will change the reference face. I will be referencing from the inside of the cabinet, not from the outside. The joint will no longer align perfectly.

[Paulh Tremblay]

You have to move the rods to the other side. Use your existing holes to realign the pin, use the drillbit in the jig and the pin in the rod then tighten it down to get your distance again.

Funny I am giving advice on this, because just yesterday I had the same conundrum, and thanks to Bill's pictures above, I now understand it. Read through his post with the pictures again, and I think you will understand it. I plan to take his advice and just use one rod not threaded into the jig. That way there is no realigning needed, just use it like a stop block and but the jig against the rod.

Since you are the second person to offer this advice, it must be correct. I don't understand how you can use the step rod without threading it into the jig. I did look at Bill's pictures, and will have another look.

[Edit] Now I understand how he uses the rod. The picture is small so it seems that the rod is threaded in when it is not. I guess if Bill uses it that way and has made scores of accurate joints, it must work.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Try using your drill bit and the pin, but use the butt end of the bit rather than the tip, and it will give you better registration through your jig.

Doc

[Bill Huber]

I went out in the shop and did your setup and now see your problem.

Like has been stated loosen the set screw on one rod and remove it. Now you can remove the other rod with the stop in it. Move it to the other side and install it and you should be good to go.

On the not threading the rod into the jig, use one rod and don't thread it into the jig, turn it around and use the rounded end against the hole in the jig. The rounded end fits right into the hole and does not move.

The first time you do it you will say the thing is going to turn and be off but it won't, it will be spot on. Remember that from the edge of the jig to the center of the first hole is the same on both sides.

296005 296006 296007

[Matt Day]

You're the man Bill! As I said before, I had this exact same problem yesterday and you're pictures and tips helped me wrap my head around it. Thanks!

[Paulh Tremblay]

Thanks everyone. I finally took out the rod by removing one rod, unscrewing rod and the piece that holds the reference pin, inserting these pieces into the other side, and ending with the other rod. Here's what the lesson:

The rod will reference perfectly from either side without having to use the previously drilled holes to align it. The double rods assure this by forcing the rods to screw in the same distance on either side.

Of course, I checked with the previous drilled holes, and without my having to move anything, I had perfect reference. I assembled the carcass with no problem (other than my dado being off, and my having not drilled the holes deep enough--need some practice here!).

In sum, the procedure is to remove the step rods as I explained above and just screw them into the other side. You probably should check to make sure they still align, (or I will until I am sure that the default will create perfect alignment.)

Still, the method of Bill Huber, master of doweling, may be easier.