weaver air tenon jig

[David Scheckman]

In my continuing and ever changing quest for a flexible and solid system for coping and tenoning on the shaper, I'm now considering a Weaver air tenon jig. They are pricey but far less then a good sliding table shaper which I've been coveting. I'd want to be able to use the jig on both my smaller Delta and larger SCMI 110 shaper. The Weaver jig rides in the miter slot not on the fence. I find this appealing as it seems there would be less chance of user error. No worries about this working on the Delta but the distance from the miter slot to the spindle on the SCMI is quite far. Roughly 10" plus. Anyone out there with any experience with these jigs? Would the increased distance from the miter slot to the spindle on the SCMI be a problem? Weaver offers some flexibility on the positioning of the guide bar and can probably make custom holes but with the stock positioning it is still several inches from the edge of the jig to the 4 1/2" cope cutter I use, and this worries me. Would love some feedback on this issue and the pneumatic tenoning jigs in general.
Thanks,
David

[Bill Orbine]

You might want to consider using the Weaver air tenon jig that rides against the fence. Rather than ride the slot.

[David Scheckman]

I'm also considering the Railmaster jig which appears to have more flexibility in guide bar position and can be set up to ride against the fence (I think). The info on both is sketchy so I am talking to the manufacturers but would love to hear from anyone who uses/has used them especially for precision work.

[Bill Orbine]

Here's another company I heard of but know little about: http://www.relcuttools.com/copecrafter.shtml

I bought my Weaver panelcrafter a long time ago..... so I've been pretty much out of the loop. Why?.... So happy with it!

[Daniel Neilson]

I have a Weaver air sled and love it. I tried various home-built sliders for years, but the Weaver is far better and safer. Keep the shaper table and slot clean and waxed, as well as the bottom of the jig, and you can slide it with one finger. I found it helpful to put a second piece of stock of identical thickness under the holddown clamp at the other end from the piece you're cutting. Make sure this scrap piece is clear of the cutters but all the way under the clamp. It keeps the clamp, and therefore the piece to be cut, absolutely flat. I used to cut backer pieces which had to be bandsawn slight thinner, then screw them in from the side. But that clamp is so strong, there's no reason not to just use a loose piece of identical stock against the inside edge.

[David Scheckman]

I ended up getting another, similar brand of air sled and it's worked out great. Fast, safe and pleasant to use. Now I have to pull it together to sell my old manual Weaver sled.
David