How would you cut all these notches?

[Peter Kuhlman]

Trying to build a picnic table using lots of 1 1/2" x 6" finished dimension cedar. Design calls for lots of notches cut 1 1/2" x 3" deep to interlock the framing. Want to cut accurate tight notches to provide strength best I can but there are lots of pieces and the notches are not all in same locations so will be lots of setup work. Thinking a dado setup may be best but will require lots of repositioning and test cuts to get accurate width cuts. The more I look at this the more difficult it gets. ;)

http://www.rockler.com/square-picnic-table-plan

Any bright ideas that would speed this up or work better? Some type of template and use my big router?
Thanks.
Pete

[Pat Barry]

I have done some notches like you need by circular saw method plus chisel to remove waste. Carefully mark the edges that define each notch and then with circular saw cutting just to the line. Then make several cuts in the middle to make it easy to break off / chisel the waste. It works great. Key is to get your saw depth cut correct. You may be able to stack pieces together and clamp them so you can cut a bunch notches at once. They don't have to be perfect, just relatively tight.

[scott vroom]

I've done what Pat describes except on a tablesaw, holding the stock against the miter fence....much faster/more accurate than I can do with a skill saw.

[Myk Rian]

Radio Alarm saw with a dado set.

[Peter Kuhlman]

Don't have access to a "radio alarm" saw. ;)
Will try the table saw and gang cut. Thinking I could use an off cut as a spacer for positioning as it will take 2 or 3 cuts with the dado. Probably the fastest way. Just lots of setups.
Thanks everyone.

[HANK METZ]

Radio Alarm saw with a dado set.

Wake up with Buzz Saw and the boys on a.m. 1400 on your radio alarm saw. :p

[Dick Latshaw]

Radio Alarm saw with a dado set.

Yes. That's how I'd do it. Many times I've wished that I still had my old RA saw. But I don't, and really don't have room for one. I could get rid of my lathe - naw, don't think so.

[Tom M King]

Is this to sit outside, and be used?

[Peter Kuhlman]

Yep outdoors. Lots of sun and humidity here in Louisiana.
Going to epoxy the feet. This is Spanish Cedar. Going to just use clear Thompsons Wood Seal finish as can reapply easily annually. Planning to use Titebond III.

[Keith Westfall]

I have found that dimension lumber is not the same. You may find some notches tight and some loose unless you run it through your planner before you start.

[Peter Kuhlman]

I purchased all the lumber rough cut and surfaced it myself so it is all exactly the same thickness.
Here in LA, cypress is commonly available but I was unable to find any that wasn't full of knot holes. Looked for white oak but just not sold here unless special ordered at incredible prices. Was recommended by suppliers here to use the Spanish cedar. I know it is used in humidors. Hope it holds up and is strong enough. Sure is soft. Really beautiful wood and absolutely clear with no knots at all and no bark edges. Oh and expensive!! ;)

[Andy Pratt]

If you are already committed to that design you are stuck with it, there are tons of picnic table designs that are high quality that don't require dadoes though if you are not yet committed to the design.

The only option that might be easier for you than the circular saw/chisel route is to do it with a router and guide clamp/board.

[Thomas Canfield]

You can make a simple jig to clamp to the piece. Use a piece of plywood with cleat underneath to clamp to the board, and a fence to left side for guide on portable hand saw. When you make the first pass, you trim the edge of the plywood to give you the inside edge of cut. Then just set the depth of cut for the dado you want and make several passes and chisel the bottom and any remaining wood. A router can also be used in a similar manner but again you will need to make multiple passes as suggested earlier.

[Don Orr]

Nice sharp handsaw and a chisel?

[Chris Padilla]

Jigsaw could also work to clear most of the waste and to clean it up, a template/jig and a router with a flush trim bit and bearing.

Cedar is so so soft. If you look at it funny, it will ding, dent, or gouge on you. You'll find this out soon. :)

[Prashun Patel]

I'd use a dado stack on the table saw.

The set up is actually easier than the router, I think. The height gets dialed in once. You can then use the rip fence and an extension with a stop on your sled/gauge and you'll be perfectly dialed in for all pieces. It's also easier to test, tweak, and nibble with a saw vs a router.

Also, if you use a router, you'd likely need to do it in multiple passes. Hogging out big waste areas with a router is never fun for me; you have to concentrate so's not to get the router to run or tip on you. With the dado, you don't have that fear.

The key to getting tight fitting half laps across a project IMHO is making sure your stock is perfectly square and equally sized.

[David Eisenhauer]

Spanish Cedar is a cheaper mahogany look-a-like and is used by the offshore boat industry shipyards (like Bollinger) to fab boat cabinetry and trim. It works well (like mahogany) in moister environments. Notch away. I would gang cut and strike a line for the base (bottom of the notch) cut with a marking knife to use for my chisel to get a clean cut with. An extra step, I know, but only done one time per notch and gets you a better chance of a cleaner notch base line.

[Edward Oleen]

No Radio Alarm Saw? Then use a Sledding Mitten Saw - preferably one that allows the use of a Daddio Set. The last thing I would use is a hand-held Circuitous Saw. It needs to be a BIG HEAVY ONE that will swing a blade big enough to give you a 3" deep cut and that means you're gonna have a lot of goofs...

[Sam Murdoch]

Spanish Cedar is a cheaper [/B]mahogany look-a-like and is used by the offshore boat industry shipyards (like Bollinger) to fab boat cabinetry and trim. It works well (like mahogany) in moister environments. Notch away. I would gang cut and strike a line for the base (bottom of the notch) cut with a marking knife to use for my chisel to get a clean cut with. An extra step, I know, but only done one time per notch and gets you a better chance of a cleaner notch base line.

Nothing cheap about it these days. I was quoted $ 6.95 a board foot for 4/4 this week :eek:. I decided to pass - the 5/4 cherry was more than $ 1.00 less expensive. Of course you wouldn't use cherry for such a table.

I really like Spanish cedar for outdoor stuff - tables to screen/storm doors but that price will make me think twice. Too bad it makes lovely clear finished doors.

Nothing to add about the cutting methods that hasn't already been addressed. HOWEVER - I write this in every thread I post to that is a discussion about outdoor furniture - so here I go again - add years and years of life to your wooden outdoor furniture by saturating the bottom of the legs with at least 1 (preferably 2) coats of a thinned epoxy. Doing so will make the end grain impervious to water penetration and thus you will add years to the life - even when leaving outdoors all winter in the snow.

[Peter Kuhlman]

I paid $4.60 a board foot for 2x random width rough sawn. Crazy expensive stuff.
Should have just built another basic table out of pressure treated. ;)
Yep planning on epoxying everything that hits the concrete.
Thanks!