Drill Press Runout?

[Bob Daniel]

Hi folks,
I have a Delta 17" drill press, floor standing, been solid and dependable for 5 years or so. Lately though I've started to notice what I guess you call runout. My 7mm pen blank holes are probably closer to 8mm, making gluing in the brass tubes problematic, for example.

I'm not much of a machinist, just learning the minimum to maintain my machines as needed, but if there is anything simple-ish I can do to deal with this, I'd appreciate any tips.Thanks in advance!

Bob.

[Lee Schierer]

A dull drill it will do the same thing and is a lot easier to fix.

[Bob Daniel]

A dull drill it will do the same thing and is a lot easier to fix.
Easy enough to check, thanks! Although it seems like there's a visible blurring at the tip before it even contacts the workpiece, and the problem exists with more than just that one drill bit, that was just a recent example.

[Cary Falk]

You can remove the chuck, clean the taper and reinsert the chuck. I doubt that is the problem if the chuck was never removed. It may make things better if there was some initial runout you never noticed. Maybe your bearings are going bad. That is not a simplish solution but doable. I rebuilt a PM1200 and it wasn't that bad. Is there a nut or bolt somewhere that tightens up the quill? Maybe giving us the model number might help.

[Bob Daniel]

Maybe giving us the model number might help.

I can do that, it's a 17-959L - Here's the PDF: http://www.deltamachinery.com/downloads/manuals/drilling_boring/17-959L/Manual-N094929_17-959L.pdf
I was not able to get the chuck out yet to check the taper, didn't want to drop, but will try again tomorrow.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Bob
As Cary Falk said it may be your bearing, Asia bearings have very little quality control. I the mean time on page 17 of your owner manual the locking lever can be used to remove play it the quill when drilling, it not the same as the older drill press when you could remove the play it the head stock. If you chose too do this solder a copper washer to the end of the locking lever bolt, well help to prevent wear on the quill. Tom

[Cary Falk]

Bob,
Do you have a dial indicator and stand? If you do, then put it on the inside of the taper when you take out the quill. Rotate the spindle and see what the runnout is. This will narrow down whether the issue is with the chuck or possibly upstream like the bearings.
Cary

[Ronald Blue]

If you grab the chuck and shake it you can feel if it has excessive play. A sudden change indicates possible bearing failure or a failing bearing. As for the blanket statement made that "Asia bearings have no quality control" is painting with an incredibly broad brush and shows no knowledge of facts. Every major bearing manufacturer has a presence there. They maintain quality in their products. Are there many shaky ones too? Definitely but there also plenty that are maintaining quality standards as well.

[Terry Beadle]

You should try rotating the drill bit by 1/4 turn and try three times. Drill bits can have their own run out issues.
Once you find the position the drill bit has it's least run out, mark it with a majic marker to match a mark on the chuck.

[Bob Daniel]

A dull drill it will do the same thing and is a lot easier to fix.

DING DING DING We have a winner!! I had been doing some tests with other bits, but only in soft wood, so inconclusive. Got a new 7mm bit today and it sped through an acrylic blank like, well, like a brand new drill bit. So that's a good thing. Thanks Lee, and thanks to all others who responded, I learned a few things. Cheers.

[Brian W Smith]

An improperly sharpened drill(not center'd)can also cause problems.....the hole will will be larger.