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Caymon Sullivan
08-22-2014, 12:59 PM
Heyo!

My work has a Epilog Helix 60W, and we have tested some engraving on a glass, but were wondering how to finish the glass. The glass is quite rough, should we just sand the glass gently? Or is there a specific product you can use.

Best regards,
-Caymon

Chris DeGerolamo
08-22-2014, 1:20 PM
Post your settings used to engrave. I'm guessing by tweaking them alone you can achieve a "smoother" mark. The biggest factor I have seen is changing artwork fills from black to 80% or 90%.

Mike Audleman
08-22-2014, 1:24 PM
Post your settings used to engrave. I'm guessing by tweaking them alone you can achieve a "smoother" mark. The biggest factor I have seen is changing artwork fills from black to 80% or 90%.

Why would changing the artwork color matter? Unless you are mapping the color to laser power.

Michael Hunter
08-22-2014, 1:32 PM
On my Epilog, changing from black to 80% grey forces it to engrave a "dither pattern" - which seems much better for engraving glass.

Ross Moshinsky
08-22-2014, 1:35 PM
The glass shouldn't be rough. From my experience, glass engraving is typically rough when you use too much power. There are a lot of posts on how to engrave glass/crystal. You can read them and test which method you like best. I like soaking wet newspaper, full power, relatively slow, with 600 dpi.

Tim Bateson
08-22-2014, 3:11 PM
I agree with Ross.. except the paper towels.. waste of time & bad results for me. Sometimes I use liquid dish detergent (very thin glass or $$$ glass), but mostly nothing at all. For Crystal I never use a coating or paper.

Chris DeGerolamo
08-22-2014, 3:35 PM
Why would changing the artwork color matter? Unless you are mapping the color to laser power.

Lower density of "dots" for engraving. Give it a shot on your end, you'd be surprised.

Caymon Sullivan
08-22-2014, 7:34 PM
Ok, thank you guys, I will post the settings when I get back in the shop.

I'll also try dish soap and newspapers, and post the results.

Best regards,
-Caymon

Martin Boekers
08-23-2014, 1:34 PM
I use the standard masking tape. It does take 2-3 passes though. The glass comes out smooth and consistent.
Not sure, but I have a feeling that the adhesive may melt into the "fractured glass" to smooth it a bit. This method works
great on JDS Black Mirrors... Thing about what Ross said though, could it be that engraving through another material be
similar to lowering the power?

bruce cain
08-25-2014, 10:22 AM
Windex and extra fine steel wool

Kev Williams
08-25-2014, 1:00 PM
Well, I must do glass wrong because no matter the settings or dither or wet paper towels or masking I use or whatever, when the engraving result suits me, I MUST use steel wool to remove the tiny flecks and shards left behind. I've gotten fairly smooth glass engraving but I don't like it. Regardless, I always steel wool anyway. All I need is for a customer to sweep his hand across the engraving and pick up glass sliver.

I use 0000 steel wool. NOT sandpaper or scotchbright pads, they will scratch the glass.

Kevin Gregerson
08-25-2014, 1:06 PM
I just select the glass setting in the materials database. Comes out near perfect every time. The nature of the beast is that glass microfractures when exposed to 10.6 laser so there is going to be bits left. I find the best overall cleaning comes from using a microfiber cloth afterwards. If you are looking for depth and you have patience you can use the hpdfo optics to engrave more depth in the glass.

Bruce Clumpner
08-25-2014, 4:15 PM
Kev,

Why not use scotchbrite pads? I'd think the glass is harder than the plastic of the sponges and so unlikely to scratch?

Chuck Stone
08-25-2014, 5:09 PM
I've changed from laser engraving them to engraving a mask (transfer tape) and
then using an air erase. It's a mini sandblaster that looks like an airbrush. I use
a cardboard box to blast in, since it doesn't throw the abrasive around like a
full sized blaster does.
That gives me the detail of the laser, but the frosting of sandblasting.
A little more work, but the results are worth it.

I've tried using the mask for cream etching, but the cream can creep
under the mask. But it looks nice where it works.

Chuck Stone
08-25-2014, 5:11 PM
Kev,

Why not use scotchbrite pads? I'd think the glass is harder than the plastic of the sponges and so unlikely to scratch?

The glass is harder than the pastic, yes. But the plastic isn't the abrasive. Scotchbrite contains
aluminum oxide, which definitely scratches the glass.
The non-stick variety may work, though..

Kev Williams
08-25-2014, 6:44 PM
What Chuck said! :D -- I have a shop full of the rust colored scotchbrite pads designed for metal, I use them to finish up stainless, and they definitely will scratch most anything! The green pads may work, but I've TRIED to scratch glass with 0000 steel wool, and can't...

Shannon Bruce
08-26-2014, 11:04 AM
We have a Universal 300 50 Watt and I use 100 power, 30 speed, then lightly wash it with a scrubby side of a dish sponge to clear away any fragments. I also wet the glass just before engraving with a spray bottle. I find that it helps to cool the fractures and gives a cleaner result with less fragmenting.

Bert Kemp
08-26-2014, 1:03 PM
I've done several 8x8 sheets of stained glass. I spray with a spray bottle mix dish soap and water before engaging and the just use the sink sprayer to rinse it all off. No glass bits left.

Martin Boekers
08-27-2014, 9:03 AM
I use a firm bristle brush for items I can't use masking on. It works ok.... Sometimes I tap the glass with the wood end too loosen any shards that may cause a "drop out"

Tim Bateson
08-27-2014, 9:31 AM
I'm curious as to what some of you are doing??? It doesn't take much to mark (micro-fracture) glass. I rarely - almost never have "loose shards". For sure glass dust that is quickly rinsed off and at most a kitchen scrubby to clean it.

On another note - I have tried that glass engraving tape. Waste of my money. The results are better ONLY if you are comparing with & without & a very detailed inspection. Also, it requires 2 passes. I have too much work to do to waste my time lasering things twice.

Bill Stearns
08-27-2014, 10:21 AM
[QUOTE=Chuck Stone;2303362] I've changed from laser engraving them to engraving a mask (transfer tape) and
then using an air erase. It's a mini sandblaster that looks like an airbrush. I use
a cardboard box to blast in, since it doesn't throw the abrasive around like a
full sized blaster does. That gives me the detail of the laser, but the frosting of sandblasting.
A little more work, but the results are worth it.

CHUCK -
Can you tell me more 'bout the "mini sandblaster" you are using? - sounds interesting. (brand, size, where to find one?) - Imagine there are occasions where "sandblasting" would help me achieve a different look than laser. Never wanted to branch into sandblasting 'cause of cost 'n mess; but have never run 'cross a small one. Other than glass, would it work on stone 'n bricks? (just one here, one there, type of projects?) Eager to hear ...

Bill

Martin Boekers
08-27-2014, 11:11 AM
Tim, I have played with glass quite a bit through the years. Results have been varied through testing with different settings. I use a variety of glass and crystal, the only
ones I have used that come out fairly smooth without masking is the JDS CRY series. I know from being on this forum that many have different experiences with glass,
I really wish mine were as good as yours without the extra work. Everyone engraves what works best. The shop I manage has different needs then most as I am on a military
installation, my customers have to have base access to purchase from me, so my cliental is limited. Sometimes I have to figure a way to get their needs realized, but I do have
to make a reasonable profit in the process. I have seen some great glass work done by those here on SMC that I haven't been able to recreate.

I've experimented with soap, wax, newspaper you name it, I haven't found anything that matches just plain masking tape for me. the JDS heat tape works but it is so hard to remove.
Masking comes off cleanly with a plastic razor and some cleaner. The results are smooth to the touch, no roughness at all. When I don't use it I get "image drop out" in some places.
You can see it is engraved, but you don't have the same "reflection" properties so it looks like parts are missing when viewed straight on.


One thing I want to mention now that I'm back is........

I think you have done an amazing job through the years! I remember when you just started and how difficult it was. You persevered, learned how to make things happen and now you have a great business!
So many don't realized how difficult it can be to start, run and develop such a business as this.... You do! Nice work Tim! Good luck in the future!

Bill Cunningham
08-27-2014, 9:48 PM
Every once in a while I will get some glass mugs that when hit a bit too hard, and some flaking or rough etching happens, a brass wire wheel on a electric or air drill works wonders. Same as the results with a steel wool or a scotch brute only a lot faster.

Chuck Stone
08-28-2014, 7:03 PM
CHUCK -
Can you tell me more 'bout the "mini sandblaster" you are using? - sounds interesting. (brand, size, where to find one?) - Imagine there are occasions where "sandblasting" would help me achieve a different look than laser. Never wanted to branch into sandblasting 'cause of cost 'n mess; but have never run 'cross a small one. Other than glass, would it work on stone 'n bricks? (just one here, one there, type of projects?) Eager to hear ...

Bill

Bill ... it's too small to work on bricks or stone. But it does frost acrylic nicely .. especially handy
when you accidentally buy extruded instead of cast. (oops..) It looks like an airbrush, but it
holds 220 grit aluminum oxide. (or perhaps others) Not good for high volume .. I'll just pack
everything up and use a friend's setup for a lot of pieces or for stone. But for a few pieces that
I need quick, this helps.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/PAS-AEC.html?gclid=CKWhl--Ht8ACFQwV7AodAUgAwg

I got mine at Harbor Fright, I think it was around $25 for eraser and abrasive with a coupon.