Rockler Shark for inlay veneer work?

[Max Neu]

I am working with a designer that has me doing some veneered tabletops with some inlay work.The inlay's aren't real detailed like marquetry work,just letter's for customer initials,and some other shapes like diamonds or circles.I want to find a quicker/easier way to do the inlay work.Right now I use a router with an inlay kit for patterns that are big enough.I use removeable spray adhesive,then rout the inlay's ,and use a clothes iron to release them.This works ok,but I still have to rely on someone else to make alot of my patterns with a CNC.Also,the router inlay kit has alot of limitations due to the size of the bushing.For smaller pieces,I am using an Exacto knife,which works,but is too slow for my liking.I am thinking about getting a benchtop CNC to make this inlay work quicker and easier,but I don't know how well it would work.I was thinking I would use spray adhesive to hold the veneer down to a MDF substrate like I am currently doing with the router inlay kit,then release it with heat after it is cut out. My main questions are,
1-Would the shark cut accurately enough to do nice inlay work?
2-What would the cut quality be like in figured wood or burls?
3-If there are better choices for machinery,I would like hear about some other choices (different brand CNC or even a laser cutter).
I don't want to spend a ton of money on this,maybe the $4000 range,I am a cabinetmaker and just do this kind of stuff here and there.I am leaning more towards the router vs. the laser because I could use it for some other things in my cabinet work,even though that is not my primary need for it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[Jim Matthews]

I use a veneer saw for fine work like this.

It has a stiff backing, and a fine-toothed blade
with no set for the task.

The blade is curved, so you can start anywhere on the sheet.

Mine resembles the one made by Grammercy, (http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/GT-VSAW.XX/The_Gramercy_Tools_Veneer_Saw)but was likely
made by the user many years ago.

Search Veneer saw to see less expensive alternatives available by mail order.

295382

[David Weaver]

Fret saw or scroll saw?

[Jamie Buxton]

I'd be concerned about cutting veneer with a router. Holding the veneer with spray adhesive might work for the cutting step, but then you have old spray adhesive covering the surface you want to glue to the substrate. A laser cutter would work better.

[Max Neu]

Jamie,
I have never had a problem with the adhesive,I use Elmer's spray adhesive (removeable),it's a light duty adhesive,holds just enough to keep the piece from moving around.I spray the face side of the veneer,so there is no issue with glue bond.I also wipe the adhesive off with Acetone or laquer thinner before pressing the inlay down,then wipe it down one more time after it comes out of the vacume press,before sanding.Also using solvent based finishes makes it even more forgiving.
I haven't found much info. for laser cutters,as far as what size I would need for this kind of work,would $4000 for a chinese model be enough?Also,would the laser leave dark edges on light colored woods?

[Mike Henderson]

When I first read your posting, I thought you were gluing the veneer down to the substrate, then routing the design into the veneer and insetting the contrasting wood. But it may be that you're preparing the veneer before laying it. If so, there's a couple of ways to inset a design into veneer.

One way is to position the design against the background veneer, tape it down with blue tape, and then cut with a knife as you raise the blue tape where you're cutting. Cut a bit, then put the tape back down so the design doesn't shift.

The second way is to make a packet of the background veneer and the design wood. You take some cardboard, such as you'd find on the back of a paper tablet. Tape that against the back of the background. Prepare the veneer by putting veneer tape over the front of it - on both the background where you're going to cut, and on the design veneer. Tape the design veneer in place. Put a piece of cardboard on top of this and then place your design on the cardboard with spray adhesive. Cut with a scroll saw. The design piece will fit exactly into the background.

The reason for the cardboard and for taping the veneer is to hold it together and prevent splitting and breaking.

But if your design is simple, I might glue the background in place first and then treat the design as an inlay. You may get better alignment doing it that way.

Mike

[Max Neu]

Mike,
You are right,I am preparing the veneer prior to pressing it on the substrate (I probably didn't explain it very well in the 1st post).I like to do that in case I make a mistake with the inlaying, it is easier to fix before it gets pressed down to the substrate.I was originally doing it the way you described in your first method,then I started using spray adhesive with a router and inlay bushing,which was alot faster and easier.I am trying to get rid of the freehand work all together (cutting out templates,exacto knives,veneer saws,etc.) and just rely on a machine to do the work.I think it would save lots of time to just be able to pick out a font,change the size to whatever is appropriate for the piece,and let it do it's thing.I am hoping there is a machine out there (benchtop CNC or laser) that's in my budget to do this sort of thing.

[Curt Stivison]

295400I have a shark cnc and love it. I have done inlays and it works well. In the software it has a male and female toolpath. I did a clock on a walnut slab. I cut the clock face out of curly maple then cut the numbers out of walnut. If you go to vectric web site it has on the information on the software. I live in Logan, Ohio and you are welcome to visit to see if it is what you need before you buy.
Curt

[Max Neu]

Curt,
That looks great! Have you used the Shark on thin veners like I described above,or just thicker material? If that router has an inlay program built in,that will really make things easier!

[Jerome Stanek]

there is a desktop shopbot for sale in the Akron area It's more than the shark but it comes with a spindle,bits a dust cabinet and some bits with Vcarve pro this is a lot better machine then the Shark. check it out at lets talk shopbot.

[Phil Barrett]

Hi Max, here is a guy that is using a CNC machine to do a lot of things, including inlays. (http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/CNC_Router/CncRouter_Index.html) Lots of good information there. Some of his stuff is pretty intricate. go into his CNC gallery and scroll to the bottom.

[Chris Padilla]

Max,

Maybe you could farm out these things to a local guy with a CNC. If it is just initials, they could make them and put them into a simple square or circle that you could then rout out more easily (albeit still by hand). I guess it would be more like a medallion you simply glue in. If you create a template, it could still go quite fast. But don't let me stop you from opening up a whole new world in CNC routing and machines!!! It is bound to be very exciting like the slippery slope of hand tools. :)