Three items arrived today

[steven c newman]

The "Good"
295363
New Haven Edge Tool Co. 1/4" Mortise chisel With a red rubber tip protector, too

The not quite as good
295364
Scioto Works #8 with an Ohio Tool Co. tapered iron. Missing the bolt between the iron and chipbreaker. Needs a strike Button on it's backside. Maybe two smallish cracks..

And now the UGLY that came as part of the deal295365
13" of pure ugliness. Rusty & Crusty Supreme. This does not have one of those Pressed Steel Frogs, It do have something.....different
295366
Or is it even a frog. This one will require a wee bit more work than the usual 2 hour rehab
295367

haven't found any markings on it...yet. Not even sure WHAT colour it was....besides rusty-red. Wonder if a soak in PB Blaster would even make a dent.

[Pat Barry]

What did all this set you back? $5, $15, $20?

[Warren Mickley]

I would call that chisel a firmer chisel. That is what catalogues of that era called chisels like yours. Both a sash mortise chisel and a joiner's mortise chisel would have a much heftier cross section at the bevel. You can make mortises using a firmer chisel, but a chisel that is thicker at the bevel will be more secure, both riding on the bevel and being held straight in the cut by the thickness of the chisel.

[Jim Koepke]

The metal plane looks like a good candidate for a coat hook or a door stop.

Just my opinion.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Turns out the Parplus #5 might be something to clean up.

The Scioto Works #8 now has a coat or three of BLO and is in "soak" mode. Irons for both have been derusted, and a start on a sharpening is going on.

The 1/4" is a mortise chisel. Have been comparing it's profile to the others in the stable. Same cross section as the 3/16" wide one. I'll need to put a decent edge on it, before I can use it.

PB Blaster got most of that #5 torn down to just parts. There is a pin holding the depth/lateral parts to the casting. Not sure if I can drive that pin out, or which way to drive it. Lever on the lever cap was STUCK, until PB hit it a few times. Works like new, now.

To answer Pat's question: Chisel was $15 + S&H the two planes were $5 each.

Has anyone heard of New Haven Edge Tool Co. ?

[steven c newman]

Most of the parts are of the Par Plus jack plane.
295404
There is a brass nut on the tote bolt. Iron has been ground back past the pitted edge, and into a slight camber. Brass wheel is off, and cleaned up. May get a better tote for this old jack. Chip breaker is rust free. All bolts are clean of rustiness. Been trying to get the base cleaned up
295407
Getting better. Hard to get to some spots, will get the Dremel out later. Can't get the pin holding the lateral/depth adjuster assembly out. PB Blaster is working very well.

Found a bolt for the Coffin smoother, I hope. Currently holding a Buck Brothers iron to a chip breaker.

[David Weaver]

I would rob the screws and fixtures from that plane and then bust the casting at the mouth and use the back half for a cast iron lap.

The iron and cap are going to be trouble without a screw on that coffin smoother.

Best I know of the chisel is that the maker was early-mid 1900s, and it should be a decent user since most of the stuff made back then was to a similar spec.

[steven c newman]

Too late, already have the Par Plus#5 all refurbbed up, and making shavings. Still needs a hone on the edge abit, but it do work

Coffin smoother still needs a rear strike button, and that bolt. BLO until no more soaked into the body. Had a iron/chipbreaker set laying around ( 2" wide, just a hair narrower) and gave it a test drive. Little plane is a bit hard to hold onto just right. Might take a bit of practice to get used to it.

Got to research the "proper" way to sharpen a Mortise Chisel, as I have now three to tune up.

Found an old workbench cabinet yesterday, built stout! Might just the place to park the Craftsman 22" Mitersaw on.
295437
Takes two people to move it around, even. They used 2x4s and ship lap 4/4 boards. Bolts to connect the corners. Seems to be a laminate top. Shelves and maybe even the runner for a drawer. They wanted $20, I got it for $15. I doubt IF the mitrebox will even nudge this heavy thing around.

Well, I am off to shop a few yard sales this morning.

[steven c newman]

Par Plus is Refurbed up.
295476
Making a few shavings
295477
Looking somewhat better
295478
For a $5 Jack Plane.

Still have finish up a smoother
295479
Awaiting word on a bolt to connect the iron and chipbreaker together. Also needs a rear strike button, all I have is a big round hole. Maybe epoxy a Carriage Bolt in as a strike button?

[steven c newman]

As for the New Haven Edge Tool Co. 1/4" Mortise chisel. I guess I had better find out HOW to sharpen one of these. The two 3/16" ones were already sharp when they arrived. The 1/4" one will need a bit of work. Edge looks like it had hit a nail, or a very hard knot.

Primary bevel @ 25 Degrees? bevel @ the edge would be ~ 30 degrees? Flatten the back to a mirror like shine, or not?

Trying to move away from them cheapo chisels for doing mortise work. Sticking with vintage ones, instead of new. Keeping an eye open for a 3/8" wide one. Don't think I will need anything bigger than that.

[Warren Mickley]

A mortise chisel needs a full flat bevel because in use the bevel rides on the work. I like a bevel around 30 degrees, but some choose maybe 35 degrees for a tougher edge. If the chisel has a short secondary bevel and long low angle bevel it will not ride very securely and the mortise will not be as precise. A 1/4 inch mortise chisel should be between 5/16 and 7/16 thick at the bevel. A thinner chisel will work, but again it will be less secure in the cut, more prone to twisting and a sloppy mortise.

Mortise chisels are usually a bit trapezoidal in section; the cutting edge and the back side a few thousandths wider than the bevel side so there is clearance. Also the side edges especially on the back (flat) side should be sharp so that as the chisel travels down and forward these edges scrape the side walls of the mortise cleaning and truing them. If these edges are rounded the chisel will be a little wider than the mortise and will easily get stuck when the mortise is deep.