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View Full Version : What oil do you use to wipe your tools?



Sean McCurdy
08-18-2014, 1:02 PM
As the thread says, looking to see what oils you guys use on your hand tools. Do you use the same for all the tools? How do you apply it? Do you instead prefer using the anti-corrosive inhibitors such as LV sells in conjunction with a chest?

I'm a hybrid worker, still relatively new to adding in hand tools to the mix. Right now everything is basically stored in cabinet drawers until I finish up a proper tool chest. I'd rather they don't turn to rust in the mean time.

Probably relevant: My sharpening system is Norton water stones, this is probably my biggest concern with respect to rust prevention.

My first thought is to use Camellia Oil wiped on with a dedicated rag.

john zulu
08-18-2014, 1:08 PM
I use Camellia oil too. It does not work as well as wax . Wax works better for long storage.
If I would use it the next few days, I use Camellia oil else wax.

For sharpening I just wipe down with paper towels first. The rust does not build up that fast when we sharpen. Unless it is horrible steel......... In this case upgrade your tools :) O1 and A2 are fine.

David Weaver
08-18-2014, 1:10 PM
Mineral oil (anything you can find anywhere - vet supply, whatever, agricultural supply? Should be just more per gallon than camelia oil is per 8 ounces)

For surfaces that get little use and more neglect, paste wax (not a bad idea to apply paste was before the oil, anyway), and for surfaces that get extreme neglect and are not wear surfaces or contact surfaces, a very light coat of shellac - very light (or if the tool is ugly, just go ahead and slather it on).

Shellac can always be gotten off later with an alcohol soaked rag.

it's my opinion that the stuff sold to us for rust protection is just sold to us because it's expensive enough to make it worth selling. No woodworking supplier will ship a $13 gallon of mineral oil, it's not worth their time. But it's better for your wallet and at least as effective as the various plant oils peddled by woodworking suppliers.

And you'll find other uses for it, like mixing with beeswax, which is another excellent non-drying rust protectant that you can just wipe on - mineral oil and beeswax, as well as being a great salve, lip balm, razor burn soother, sanding wax, light scratch filler on floors, etc.

Adam Cruea
08-18-2014, 1:16 PM
Pneumatic oil. It's really all I've got around the house, it's light, and it works for now.

If it's a tool that's going to sit for a while, I'll take some paraffin wax, really cake it on, then buff it all over the tool with a shop cloth.

Other than that, my basement is fairly cool and dry, and unless I sweat on my tools, I don't have much of an issue.

Though I can't tell you, don't use 50W motor oil to protect your tools. Bad, bad idea. :o

Pat Barry
08-18-2014, 1:38 PM
I don't use oil and never have - there, I said it. In fact to me its not something I would have considered. My garage shop in Minnesota and I haven't notoiced any rusting problems. In fact, if I need to start worrying about this I will probably get even less work done

Jim Koepke
08-18-2014, 1:40 PM
There are a few depending on where I am standing at the time.

Most often used is a rag saturated in furniture polish. My recollection is this is just mineral oil and beeswax.

Sometimes Johnson's paste wax is used.

jtk

Daniel Rode
08-18-2014, 2:12 PM
I usually wipe my tools down with WD-40. No idea if it's better or worse than any type other oil. It's what I have available, so I use it.

Dave Cullen
08-18-2014, 2:16 PM
Camilla oil for hand tools, paste wax for machines. Beeswax on plane soles.

Judson Green
08-18-2014, 2:39 PM
Usually just oil (mineral oil/mineral spirts, cuz its cheep and I have it) it the first time I clean it up to put it back to use (I use most vintage plane. I use paraffin wax often on the sole, but thats more for making the tool a little slicker. Most of my tools came pre-rusted (patina) so the bar is already set kinda low :D

But I also don't use water stones.

george wilson
08-18-2014, 2:42 PM
It has often been mentioned on machinists forums that WD 40 can leave a brown residue that dries up and is murder to get rid of.

I just use Starrett instrument oil. It is a high grade mineral oil. I only use it if I'm suspicious that someone with rust making fingers has handled a tool. Otherwise nothing. But,I have a dry,heated shop above ground.

steven c newman
08-18-2014, 2:53 PM
Just plain old 3in1 oil. Few drops, and rub it around with a rag.

Damp celler for a shop.

Tom M King
08-18-2014, 4:20 PM
295085After the rust inhibiter test in FWW a year or two ago, I gave their highest rated product a try-CRC 3.36. I like it a lot. I haven't used anything else since I started with it. Here is a picture of a LV shooting plane that I bought right at a year ago. It's been sitting out in a "shop"-unheated 1828 house room over a basement with open vents, in an old house in Maryland for a couple of months, and now in a 50 year old house this Summer. This Summer is the only time it's been in an air conditioned space.

I ended up using it by holding the metal body, rather than the tote. You might be able to see a smudge where the 3.36 is worn off. I've had no rust on anything that the 3.36 has been put on. It's the only new plane I have, and the only thing I can think of that is bare metal that has never had anything else on it other than 3.36. None of my old planes have ever been that shiny, so none of them would be as good an example.

Daniel Rode
08-18-2014, 4:51 PM
I've bought and use CRC-36 as well but mostly on power tool surfaces like the table saw and jointer.

A similar study was done by Browning and WD-40 was at the top in terms of rust protection. CRC-39 was not part of that test. I suspect they work about the same for hand tools but I can buy WD-40 everywhere.

Malcolm Schweizer
08-18-2014, 4:55 PM
I have tried many different things, and then got a great deal on Camelia Oil on eBay. I have used it ever since because it has worked better than anything I have tried, including the spray-on stuff they sell at HD, and WD-40. I also store my planes in plane socks and I can assure you they do help. I live in the tropics where literally in one day if I leave a saw on the bench overnight, depending on the humidity that day, it can start to rust.

I put the camelia oil in small spray bottles and spray the planes and then wipe with a cloth to spread it around. I spray down into the areas I cannot reach with the cloth. I like the camelia oil because it wipes off rather easily. Some of the rust preventatives I have used in the past left quite a mess.

ian maybury
08-18-2014, 6:46 PM
I've been using wax and camelia oil so far without problems for a few years - but my workshop is very dry and probably only a challenge for a few days a year. WD 40 before that, but it didn't really leave a stable coating and wasn't very effective. It's daft but i ended up buying the last lot of oil from Stu in Japan because the local prices were much higher - even including shipping. It doesn't seem to stain to any significant degree, and it's easy on skin and smell free apart from whatever rust blocking capability it has. I tend to keep a pen oiler (lots on EBay) that will dispense a drop when needed, and to use it on moving parts. Also a cloth with some oil in it in a plastic tub that will apply a light film when needed.

It's sometimes used in cooking, and i thought for a while that maybe it could be bought bulk on the cheap. No luck here, but it might be different in the US….

Renaissance wax is expensive, but has the advantage of being right on the edge of being a heavy oil and as a result is very easy to apply and leaves a good film.....

David Barnett
08-18-2014, 7:38 PM
Renaissance wax is expensive, but has the advantage of being right on the edge of being a heavy oil and as a result is very easy to apply and leaves a good film.....

I, too, use Renaissance Wax and have nearly two decades. Living less than a couple hundred feet from ocean saltwater, RenWax has kept my tools and machines rust-free with only casual and infrequent reapplication. Until I switched to RenWax, I tried machine oils, mineral oils, camellia and so on. As far as oils go, mineral oil works as well if not better than the rest.

You're right when you say Renaissance Wax is "right on the edge of being a heavy oil", the main differences being that the hydrocarbon chains are even longer and the molecules are more highly branched alkanes. Microcrystalline waxes are much tougher.

george wilson
08-18-2014, 9:20 PM
I had to loan my Ren. wax to a friend a few days ago. He needed a wax that would show as few fingerprints as possible. I could not think of anything better. Any ideas from you,David?

I actually would rather use it on my tools than oil,which I don't want on wood. But,the question was what oil,so I had to say mineral oil. Starrett Instrument oil,to be exact. But,it's only high grade mineral oil,as mentioned.

One time I was asked by one of my 5 (successive) bosses to loan a brand new Cuban mahogany stuffed steel jack plane I just made. He wanted to show it to some group. I loaned it on Friday. On Sunday,I went to his office and took it back. It had HORRIBLE barnyard brown rust fingerprints on it!! It took me about 8 HARD hours to sand the blasted things out of it and re polish it. I don't know what caused that. But,I'm still miffed over it. I can assure you,I used company time to fix it,but still had to sand all day by hand with wet or dry paper. He was capable of being a real jerk,so I didn't bother to ask him how that happened.

Jim Matthews
08-18-2014, 9:37 PM
I use 3 in 1 machine oil.
No rust on my cast iron, plane blades or chisels with that.

I have had other oils fail to keep the rust at bay.
(Camellia wasn't barrier enough for my favorite MF 9)

I slather the stuff on, if storage is longer than a few days.
My shop is in my rather damp basement.

I'll use Camellia oil when planing, on the sole but only because I still have so much.

Shawn Pixley
08-18-2014, 9:53 PM
Hand tools are wiped down with camilia oil (gift) or jojoba oil (garage sale for a quarter). Then they are stored in a plane sock in a drawer with anti-corrosion agent. Maybe overkill for some, but I live in a marine environment. Power tools get Boeshield and or paste wax (carnuba, no silicone). All are covered or in a drawer, box, etc....

David Weaver
08-18-2014, 9:56 PM
Hand tools are wiped down with camilia oil (gift) or jojoba oil (garage sale for a quarter). Then they are stored in a plane sock in a drawer with anti-corrosion agent. Maybe overkill for some, but I live in a marine environment. Power tools get Boeshield and or paste wax (carnuba, no silicone). All are covered or in a drawer, box, etc....

Having seen where you and david barnett live (in terms of proximity to the shore), it makes me glad to just deal with saltless moisture.

george wilson
08-18-2014, 10:13 PM
No WOOL socks,I hope!! In fact,I would not use a sock at all. Fabric might store moisture more easily than bare metal.

I saw a Civil War pistol stored in a wool sock for many years. Like new internally,but the sock's rough weave had eaten itself very deeply into the surface of the gun.

David Weaver
08-18-2014, 10:17 PM
Presume that was a union pistol if it was wool?

David Barnett
08-18-2014, 10:59 PM
I had to loan my Ren. wax to a friend a few days ago. He needed a wax that would show as few fingerprints as possible. I could not think of anything better. Any ideas from you,David?

RenWax is, in my opinion, simply the best wax for protecting against fingerprints in fairly challenging venues, such as arts & crafts shows, galleries and retail settings. It's the standby for high-end knifemakers and engravers at shows and gets used by metal artists, silversmiths, goldsmiths and so on. Not only is it the answer to heavily-handled metals, it's also excellent on photographs and other paper art and is a mainstay archival product for museum conservationists.

Even if you don't worry about rust, it really keeps the fingerprints from showing, so I've used it on stone sculptures, too. Although I have used it on wooden objects, for furniture I live with I rather prefer the look and feel of beeswax-based waxes, more satin or matte coatings, and especially the non-greasy look of plain rubbed beeswax applied dry or with a squirt of water—no turps, no spirits. Lots of strenuous rubbing and buffing, though.

Yes, it's more expensive than non-microcrystalline waxes but I think it's easily worth it. Besides, a very little truly goes long, long way and it simply works where others don't when protecting what I want wax to protect. Many of my woodworking hand tools, such as moulding planes, haven't been waxed for years and are still rust-free. Other tools that got more frequent use were waxed more frequently but not with anything approaching a regular schedule. If one uses RenWax primarily for tools, a small jar should last years, which is a pretty good return for cost in my book.

In the metalsmithing areas, highly-polished anvils, stakes, daps and blocks, hammers, rolling mill cylinders—all get RenWax. Although nearly everywhere I make things is climate controlled, microcrystalline wax is my first line of defense where rust is concerned. Again, it is so worth it.


I actually would rather use it on my tools than oil,which I don't want on wood. But,the question was what oil,so I had to say mineral oil. Starrett Instrument oil,to be exact. But,it's only high grade mineral oil,as mentioned.

On certain tools, mostly in my little machine room, I use mineral oil but more because it lubricates as well as protects, but I don't like anything that might transfer to porous materials, so for those, I use wax. Starrett's good, doesn't have any significant traces of acids that might cause problems, but I tend to use pharmaceutical mineral oil in USP 10 and USP 20 weights.

If someone needed to examine my gold and silver replicas of ancient Etruscan, Mycenaean or Egyptian jewelry without cotton gloves or actually wear it before they owned it, you can bet it got an invisible layer of Rennaisance Wax before that happened.


It had HORRIBLE barnyard brown rust fingerprints on it!! It took me about 8 HARD hours to sand the blasted things out of it and re polish it. I don't know what caused that. But,I'm still miffed over it.

There was this one woodworker—everything he touched rusted—everything. Left his fingerprints in rust, so you knew it was him. Fortunately, he tried to be careful about it, but his body chemistry was plainly corrosive. Had a severe allergy to nickel, too, and was even pretty hard on anything but fine silver (.999) and gold alloys below 22k.

At an ACC show in Sarasota one year, several jewelry artisans had tarnish and corrosion quickly develop from handling, probably all by the same client attending that first day. Happens.

Winton Applegate
08-19-2014, 1:15 AM
My first thought is to use Camellia Oil wiped on with a dedicated rag.

You can't do that !
Camellia Oil will evaporate right off the tool without a trace.
(sorry . . . poor, inside, joke. See the Camellia on oil stone thread. Or maybe you would be happier, and smarter, if you didn't)

I have nothing of value to add here. I live in The Wild Wild West and it is high desert and no prob. with rusty tools in a dry shop. I was once in a basement but . . . that's another story.

Tony Zaffuto
08-19-2014, 6:13 AM
I need a lab to analyze what my stuff is wiped with and there is no rust, no brown crusting, just simple patina that comes with age.

What do I wipe with (in the shop, don't poke at my Charmin) is the same the CS (dare I mention those initial?) uses, though I believe I may have been first! I have shop rags laying around, either old t-shirts or terry cloth or what ever. I use them to wipe my hands, to wipe of tools, to mop up whatever spills, to get the oversprays of WD-40 or any penetrating oil (Rust Blaster), to mop up the Marvel Mystery Oil that misses my stones, etc. Don't know what all is on the rag(s), but I use them without regard on whatever tool I use, though I'm not anal about wiping done after each use.

What shall I do? Shall I abandon my methods that have left me a corrosion free batch of tools (albeit with patina, especially on brass)? Nah, ain't gonna worry about it, ain't gonna go buy any special oil, just gonna keep doing what I've done for more years than I can remember, and that's "keep on wiping".

Daniel Rode
08-19-2014, 8:55 AM
Where I live, summers are warm and humid, winters are cold and dry. My shop is a 2 1/2 car garage that has never see a car. It's heated in the winter but mostly ambient conditions otherwise. This year I added a window air conditioner but I only run it when it's extremely humid and I plan to work for a good while.

I'm fortunate in that tools in my shop can sit for years and not develop any surface rust provided they are left clean and dry. A basic wipe down before putting things away is about all I need.

Curt Putnam
08-19-2014, 12:39 PM
FWIW - I use Corrosion-X HD http://corrosionx.com/corrosionx-heavy-duty.html Nothing I have ever used it on has ever rusted. I keep a rag (well sprayed) in a canning jar (so the volatiles don't escape) by the tools. When used, they get a wipe down. Over the past 10 years or so, everything not wiped down has rusted. I am told that purely synthetic motor oil works as well - haven't yet tried it. Anyway, the stuff seems to bond to the steel. The layer is so thin that it appears to "dry" out. I've never had an issue with oil contamination on my wood. OTOH - if it feels oily, I wipe it dry before using. I have to xtra wipe the chisels before sticking them in a honing jig - other wise they slide around. I got turned on to Corrosion-X HD when I was doing a lot of offshore saltwater fishing. 7 days of continuous salt water and salt spray will rust unprotected gear in a hurry.

I also hear mutton tallow touted for its lubricity and rust prevention qualities.

The Corrosion-X HD works for me. The other stuff is put forth by people I respect.

Micro climate makes a huge difference it what works. I live in an upslope area that gets about 3 - 4 times the average rainfall for SoCal. Humidity yesterday ranged from about 70% to 30% (generally drops during the day as the marine layer burns off.)

JMO & YMWV

Barney Markunas
08-19-2014, 1:36 PM
I'd be careful about using synthetic motor oil. Some may be fine but it is my understanding that at least some of them are hygroscopic. This info came from someone who specialized in mothballing equipment for the military. I can't say for sure but I suspect there was research to back up his claim. I use camelia oil but probably less often than I should.

David Weaver
08-19-2014, 3:41 PM
I rather prefer the look and feel of beeswax-based waxes

George will be horrified to find that there is someone else who loves beeswax :)

I love it.

David Barnett
08-19-2014, 3:53 PM
George will be horrified to find that there is someone else who loves beeswax :)

Oh, the wonders of soft, sticky beeswax. No sir, no shiny carnauba for me. Actually, I will use carnauba if there's lots of lovely beeswax to mitigate the gloss. Can't help it—just love that dry waxed look.

Sam Stephens
08-19-2014, 5:28 PM
Snake oil works best, but it's expensive!

My garage/shop hovers at 75-80% humidity in the summer which is May-Sept (no salty air though). 3-in-1 machine oil or WD-40. I like the smell of 3 in 1 a bit better. Paste wax works fine for TS, jointer tables, etc. but less so w/ plane soles and other metal bodies.

Winton Applegate
08-19-2014, 6:41 PM
beeswax :)
I love it.

Now you are talking. It was good enough for the Pharaohs.

Winton Applegate
08-19-2014, 6:46 PM
Snake oil works best, but it's expensive!

Sam,
:cool: Yah about that . . . I could see my way clear to cutting my price to you if you could maybe like buy a few more vials . . . aaaaahhhhh . . . maybe like lay your source of bliss on your friends.
:cool: Hey, you would be doing THEM a favor and cutting your costs.

:cool: Only trying to help.

Shawn Pixley
08-20-2014, 9:35 PM
No WOOL socks,I hope!! In fact,I would not use a sock at all. Fabric might store moisture more easily than bare metal.

I saw a Civil War pistol stored in a wool sock for many years. Like new internally,but the sock's rough weave had eaten itself very deeply into the surface of the gun.

Silicone impregnated cotton actually. The tools get used enough that they get checked regularly. The system works well for me.

Sean McCurdy
08-20-2014, 11:51 PM
Thanks for all the input guys!

I realized that I never did talk about location. The hand tools are stored inside in a very dry basement shop. Power tools are out in the garage that does see cars.

In the short term, I think I'll wipe down all the tools that don't see alot of use (panel saws) with some Johnson's paste wax. I've already got a can that I use on my Unisaw and Jointer, that seems easy enough.

For medium use things (like a Stanley #6 ) I'll probably do the CRC 3.36 or the Corroison X. Both seem well reviewed. Leaning towards the 3.36, just because it's 1/3 the price and I can get free shipping.

I haven't made up my mind on things that will see more use and sharpening, like chisels and a smoothing and/or jointer plane. Maybe oil, maybe 3.36.

ian maybury
08-21-2014, 7:31 AM
Hi Shawn. It's obviously working for you, but long and bad experience of the effects of silicone when refinishing cars (even a stray airborne molecule or two can somehow find its way over extended distances on to prepared surfaces and cause 'fish eyes' in the new coating - result in a spot where the paint hasn't got enough wetting ability to cover) means that it's an absolute no no in my book anywhere remotely close to where adhesives and/or finishes might be in use. The effect can normally be headed off these days in automotive refinishing using a precautionary pre-wash (people insist on using silicone containing plastic polishes and the like on their cars), but a porous surface like wood may be a lot more difficult.....

Sean McCurdy
08-21-2014, 9:09 AM
Ian,

Thanks for the concern. However, the lack of silicone is precisely why I use the Johnson wax, not an automotive one.

http://www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/en-us/products-by-brand/sc-johnson/sc-johnson-paste-wax.aspx

As for cross-contamination from my cars, I actually use a polymer based "wax" for my vehicles. I apply and remove entirely by hand.
Honestly, and I'm sure my wife would agree, the cars don't find their way into the garage all that often...

Curt Putnam
08-21-2014, 12:46 PM
Someone, whose knowledge I very much respect, said that paste wax has little resistance to water or water vapor. He suggested a test along the lines of paste wax part of a cast iron surface and leave the other bare. Then spritz both sections with a light sprayer (good atomization) using water several times a day.

Has anyone done such a test? If so, what were the results?

David Weaver
08-21-2014, 2:01 PM
It doesn't offer much protection in that sense, relevant if you're going to leave a sweaty glass on a piece of furniture. As a barrier against water vapor, it works very well.

The trouble in this case is that the test doesn't match the real world application. You need only a barrier for vapor and maybe very light surface condensation as opposed to liquid that will eventually (or fairly quickly) get through the wax.

Just as something anecdotal - once I put a wipe of beeswax on all of my saws (which live in an environment between 60 and 75% humidity in the summer), no rust. The couple of times I've unintentionally cleaned the bandsaw table surface and forgotten to wax them, I've come back to surface rust. I can't remember what the magic number is, something like 63% RH or so that you start to see rust.

lowell holmes
08-21-2014, 3:57 PM
+1 for Johnson's Wax.

I'm in the Gulf Coast area and things rust , but Johnson's stops it.