Festool RO150 really a "one sander fits all" machine??

[David Kuzdrall]

I figured that I would start a new thread with regard to the Festool RO150 that has been mentioned a few times in my other post regarding belt sanders..

The Festool RO150 was recommended as an alternative to the belt sander and perhaps even a "one sander fits all". While I have no doubt that it will do very well in rough and coarse applications will it sufficiently be able to tone it down and provide a finish ready surface? Given its price, if it can do this then it might make sense but otherwise I can't see it being worth it for my needs.

THX

[Peter Quinn]

I don't own one and have never used one.....so take this for what you will....but I have held one and turned it on at a demo. I'd say no. That thing is huge. Its more likely to replace a wide belt sander or a belt sander than a fine detailed ROS. Look at the pics they choose to feature on the festool site. One of a floor being sanded, the next old barn boards being ground down, another grinding paint off of plywood. I don't see any pics of fine detailed sanding on finished casework, and I can't imaging carrying that huge brick around all day to do that in any even. Most of what I happen to do is fine detailed sanding, for me the RO line is a waste of time and money. If I were grinding out rough carved chair seats I might feel differently, and you may , but definitely not a one sander fits all machine IMO.

[Jim Becker]

My 150/3 is my go-to sander 98% of the time...it does a great job, has excellent dust extraction and most importantly...my hand(s) don't get numb using it, even after long periods of time on a large project. I don't find the size inconvenient in any way for the work I do. For those times when I do need "extra-extra" power, I do happen to own a Rotex 150, but I rarely feel the need for it.

[Loren Woirhaye]

I have a Rotex. It's the only orbital sander I use. It is nothing compared to a wide belt or stroke sander in terms of speed. It is on the heavy side but one can hold the sander by the cord end when sanding panels and avoid the vibration that makes the hands numb to some extent. Allegedly they are precision balanced to reduce operator fatigue.

[Victor Robinson]

It's probably closer to one sander fits all than any other sander, but does it actually accomplish it? Dunno, you'd have to try it and see if it works for you. That's why Festool has the 30day money back guarantee.

[Max Neu]

If you could only own 1 sander and had to use it for everything from rough to finish,then I would say that would be the sander to get.But realistically,that is not the way to go.I have a Rotex 125 that I use in aggresive mode if we have a large frame or raised panel that was too big to go through the wide belt sander,then we use that to knock down the joints (we still run the parts through the sander first).We also use the Rotex in normal mode if we have some heavy cross grain scratches to get rid of left by the widebelt,but then follow up with the ETS125.I think one of the best sanders we have that you don't hear much about is the LS130.We finish up anything that is stain grade with that sander,it gets rid of all swirl marks.All random orbit sanders leave swirl marks,some smaller than others,but they are there.I know alot of people try to get rid of swirl marks with RO's by going finer and finer with the grit,but that can cause alot of issues when you go to finish the piece with stain absorbtion and adhesion,espescailly on dense woods like maple.I also use the LS130 alot on bigger profiles like raised panels and large roundover profiles.I have 4 different Festool sanders that I use for specific tasks,In my opinion,there is no sander that will do eveything well.

[Scott T Smith]

If you could only own 1 sander and had to use it for everything from rough to finish,then I would say that would be the sander to get.But realistically,that is not the way to go.I have a Rotex 125 that I use in aggresive mode if we have a large frame or raised panel that was too big to go through the wide belt sander,then we use that to knock down the joints (we still run the parts through the sander first).We also use the Rotex in normal mode if we have some heavy cross grain scratches to get rid of left by the widebelt,but then follow up with the ETS125.I think one of the best sanders we have that you don't hear much about is the LS130.We finish up anything that is stain grade with that sander,it gets rid of all swirl marks.All random orbit sanders leave swirl marks,some smaller than others,but they are there.I know alot of people try to get rid of swirl marks with RO's by going finer and finer with the grit,but that can cause alot of issues when you go to finish the piece with stain absorbtion and adhesion,espescailly on dense woods like maple.I also use the LS130 alot on bigger profiles like raised panels and large roundover profiles.I have 4 different Festool sanders that I use for specific tasks,In my opinion,there is no sander that will do eveything well.


+1 to Max's comments.

[Tom Ewell]

No, the Rotex 150 will not be the answer to every sanding scenario, can't think of any machine that is.

Will it get to a 'finish' surface, yes it will within the specs of any machine with a 3/16 stroke.(orbit)

If you need a finer finish and still be able to do close to the same job, the Rotex 125 has a 9/64 stroke.

The ever popular ETS 150 has can get down to an 1/8 stroke but it's not a Rotex

The little ETS 125 has a 5/64 stroke, drives me nuts trying to level an errant joint but great for between finish coats

My favorite finish sander is a Mirka Ceros 150 and it has a 3/16 stroke.

[Sam Murdoch]

I figured that I would start a new thread with regard to the Festool RO150 that has been mentioned a few times in my other post regarding belt sanders..

The Festool RO150 was recommended as an alternative to the belt sander and perhaps even a "one sander fits all". While I have no doubt that it will do very well in rough and coarse applications will it sufficiently be able to tone it down and provide a finish ready surface? Given its price, if it can do this then it might make sense but otherwise I can't see it being worth it for my needs.

THX

I started the conversation of using the RO150 rather than a belt sander on your other thread. I stick by my recommendations in that thread. Having said that however, I back off a bit on recommending the RO150 as a "one sander fits all". The "surface ready" capability criteria needs some qualifiers in my opinion based on my experience.

I wrote in another post a while ago - "the RO150 is a much more versatile sander than the ETS but they are different animals. The ETS is the finish sander that the RO can only pretend to be - as the RO is the all purpose sander that the ETS can only envy". My experience with the RO as a finish sander is that it will do the job well with practice on hard woods. I have used it that way for preparing walnut and cherry and mahogany projects to be finished with a clear coat with great success.

BUT (at least in my hands) trying to finish soft woods such as pine or basswood or any wood that you intend to stain requires a very delicate touch and no skipping grits as you work up past 150 grit using the Festool ROs 150 or 125. These are pretty aggressive for finish sanders and developing a no swirl surface with them is a much more finicky process than using a dedicated finish sander such as the Festool ETS150 or the Mirkos CEROS sanders. (See Max Neu's post # 6 above for more perspective.)

The ETS150 with varying grits will do a huge range of sanding too from rough to finish. Just a slow rough sander compared to the RO150 or a belt sander. As a finish sander it is excellent. I echo what Jim Becker wrote "My 150/3 is my go-to sander 98% of the time...it does a great job, has excellent dust extraction and most importantly...my hand(s) don't get numb using it, even after long periods of time on a large project."Other have praised the Mirkos CEROS sanders as being the best of all finish sanders but I haven't had the pleasure to compare

As I wrote in the other thread the only belt sander I uses these days is the small Porter Cable, and that nearly exclusively for edge work, especially cutting down to a scribe line.

[Peter Quinn]

I use the ETS 125 for probably 70% of my machine sanding post drum or wide belt, I use the ETS 150/3 for 25% which would include tops, wide panels, visable plywood panels, etc. Broad surface work. I have never been good at sanding 2-3" face frames with a 6" sander, not sure it's generally advisable anyway. I would love to get an RO 150 for leveling etc, but my accountant says I have enough tools, use something else, the kids need a collage fund more than I need another expensive green tool. I told her they are mostly black.....anyway, I use a small PC belt sander for large frames, takes a bit of finess and some luck, and some cleaning up afterward. Sanders to me are like routers. There is no single one for everything, and each wood worker developed their own prefered configuration over time, differing approaches are not mutually exclusive.

[Chris Padilla]

Like Jim Becker, I own both the Rotex (RO150, older one...non-removable cord) and the ETS 150/3. Note that there is a 150/5 and a 150/3. The /# indicates the amount of orbit and the 5 mm is considered more coarse than the 3 mm orbit, which is considered more fine. That said, I use the 150/3 for nearly ALL my sanding chores. I'll break out the Rotex for tougher jobs or gnarly sanding situations but the 150/3 is what I use on all my plywood/hardwood projects. I've had mine for maybe 8-10 years and I just found the need to replace the pad (no longer holding sanding discs). Festool can't be beat for dust collection. You'll sand and wonder if you're really sanding because there is no dust but low and behold, that surface is getting smoother and smoother.... :)

[Edward P. Surowiec]

David as they say size does make a difference. your work can have a big influence on the what sander is best .Check this link out http://rotex.festoolusa.com/sanders/features/multi-mode/ they review all three Rotex sanders. Recently I watched a Festool video that Demo'd the RO150 but I cannot give you a reference to the video. It is very good , I own the RO150 and did not fully appreciate all of its capability.

[Greg Portland]

IMO, get a Festool 150/3 and a "cheap" belt sander. Many of us have the RO150 + 150/3 combo which is nice because they take the same paper. However, I've used the RO150 for finish sanding and I've had to use an extra grit and be very careful. The ETS 150/3 is better balanced and produces a finer finish @ a given grit.

[Edward P. Surowiec]

Hey David I found the Video http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2014/07/25/swirl-free-sanding/ that I mentioned in my earlier reply to your post.
Ed

[David Kuzdrall]

Thx for all the replies. Now to maybe through a wrench in the machine....where would we rank the mirka Creos 150/3 & 150/5 amongst the festool sanders mentioned?

thx again!

[Sam Murdoch]

Thx for all the replies. Now to maybe through a wrench in the machine....where would we rank the mirka Creos 150/3 & 150/5 amongst the festool sanders mentioned?

thx again!

Don't own one (yet) but here is one link about them - http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?209332-Mirka-Ceros-Sander

More links just search the Creek.

[Jason White]

Yes, I've had mine for years and it does a beautiful job -- both coarse and fine applications -- but only if you connect it to a vac with variable suction control like a Festool or Fein.



I figured that I would start a new thread with regard to the Festool RO150 that has been mentioned a few times in my other post regarding belt sanders..

The Festool RO150 was recommended as an alternative to the belt sander and perhaps even a "one sander fits all". While I have no doubt that it will do very well in rough and coarse applications will it sufficiently be able to tone it down and provide a finish ready surface? Given its price, if it can do this then it might make sense but otherwise I can't see it being worth it for my needs.

THX

[Alan Lightstone]

My 150/3 is my go-to sander 98% of the time...it does a great job, has excellent dust extraction and most importantly...my hand(s) don't get numb using it, even after long periods of time on a large project. I don't find the size inconvenient in any way for the work I do. For those times when I do need "extra-extra" power, I do happen to own a Rotex 150, but I rarely feel the need for it.

+10000.

I own both, and have often thought of selling the RO150. It's a beast, and very well made - don't get me wrong, but 99.99% of the time I use my 150/3, and it works great. Dust extraction is excellent, as Jim said, and it's just so much more manageable. I'm sure it takes longer, but the finished surface is great.

I've never used a Mirka, except in demos, but short of that, I love the 150/3.

[howard s hanger]

I have both as well and tend to use the RO most of the time. It really is a versatile machine as I make a lot of end grain cutting boards from very hard wood and need the power to get the scratches out initially in rotex mode and then work my way up to 320 which puts a glass like surface on them. I suppose I would use the 150/3 more if I thought about it but for my application, the Rotex does a great job! It is interesting that after 5 years, the motor still gets pretty warm when I have been using it for awhile. I thought that was supposed to away after a few hours of break in.

[Andy Pratt]

295464

Personally completed with the rotex 150 from 100 grit rough sanding to 2000 grit+ wet sanding/rub out of the cured finish.