I ruined my relatively new Diemaster 2

[Tai Fu]

I fired up the bandsaw to cut a few african blackwood scraps into guitar pick thickness. Then when I got done I thought about doing it to some ebony fingerboard scraps too, so I held the scrap to the bandsaw to gauge thickness, and then I accidentally caught the corner of the wood to the blade as it's slowing down. In about a millisecond the blade jumped, ripped a chunk off of the ebony, and somehow wedged itself inside the lower guide. By the time I was able to free the band I noticed the blade was severely bent and kinked!

I tried straightening it but it won't straighten at all (and I think it will probably break soon too). Because of that it now cuts badly.

That's another 60+ dollars down the drain...

I have some carbon steel blade stocks but I stopped using them because they would dull relatively quickly...

[Matt Day]

Bummer! Lesson learned though right? I did something similar and trashed a blade.

[lowell holmes]

I'm glad you weren't injured.

[John TenEyck]

Your story has a familiar ring to it, only my blade only cost about $35. My advise is to forget about trying to use that blade anymore. I've had a couple of blades break with no consequences, but I've heard a few horror stories, too, so why take a chance on a blade that you know is weakened and likely to break.

John

[Andrew Hughes]

I've had the same thing happen to me twice,once was with a 132 inch resaw king blade.Once with a tri master.And i probably do it again someday.Most of my blades now are just regular steel 3t 4t and I have one 1 tip.
So feel your frustration.Aj

[Tai Fu]

I tried to bend it back, it still cuts and stuff but not as smoothly as before, and of course it makes weird sound as it runs. 18" wheels puts minimal stress on such thin blades so it probably won't break that soon, who knows.

[Al Launier]

Any chance you could apply some localized heat (propane or Map) to the bent area & hammer it back into straightness? Doing so will cause the blade to lose its temper in that area, but you might still be able to cut with it. Also, if you were to use heat, you could, after straightening, apply heat again to get that area red hot, then quench in water or motor oil, or pour water over it. This will make it brittle, so apply heat again until just starting to discolor & quench again to slightly soften the hard, brittle temper. Just a thought - nothing to lose.

[Tai Fu]

I will try that, I was thinking the exact thing

[ken masoumi]

I would send to a shop that welds bandsaw blades,have them cut out the twisted/bent part and reweld.

[glenn bradley]

At least there was no blood :) Failing to wait for a machine to fully stop is a no-no in any safety teachings you want to try. I think we all have had such experiences and the lesson learned (at least in my case) is burned in sooo deep that I never do it again :D:D:D.

[Chris Padilla]

I did something similar but to my Lenox Trimaster blade!! :eek: THAT was an expensive lesson. I ended up sending the blade out to have the bent part cut out and a new section welded in but it never really cut the same as the new non-mangled blade. The Diemaster2 is about a third the price of the carbide Trimaster but I personally prefer using it for most of my resawing these days.

[Dave Cullen]

Yup, me too. About 3 weeks ago. Brand spankin' new Timberwolf 3/8" grabbed a small chunk from my fingers and jammed in the saw table insert. I will get a zero clearance insert before trying to cut thin pieces again.