Wood and metal in the dishwasher

[John Schreiber]

After 17 years of use and almost daily dishwashing, the wooden handles on my kitchen knives have bit the dust. I think the original material was teak. The only treatment they received was an occasional wipe with lemon oil.

I tried to rehandle the knives with white oak, riveted in place with 1/8” brass rod and glued with Gorilla Glue. I soaked the completed handles for about a week in diluted poly finish, then painted on four coats of poly. That didn’t work. The handles are starting to loose their finish and the daily change of moisture content has broken the wood away from the tang and loosened the rivets.

Any ideas? Should I buy some teak to make new handles? What about using some kind of resin impregnated wood (Micarta)?

I know that almost any treatment will work if it is cared for properly. I’m looking for something that will last without good care.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I think you had something that 'will last without good care' if they went 17 years with the original teak. I'd have to assume that these were expensive knives...but you may want to compare what you're gonna spend ($$ and time) to fix them versus buying new ones.

KC

[Jim Becker]

It's generally not a good idea to put wooden-handled knives and the like in the dishwasher. The combination of high water tempurature and detergents really can do a number on them. It's worse than leaving them out in the sun and weather. I'm actually surprised yours lasted as long as they have!

I'd suggest you replace the handles with something you really like to look at and hand wash these knives. It only takes a few moments and they are ready to go for the next meal immediately. We treat all our wooden handled knives that way and they look like new...and are over 20 years old. (wedding present from my first marriage back in 1979!)

[Keith Outten]

John,

I would make the knife handles for scrap Corian. Corian is dishwasher safe and won't need any finish, plus it is available in lots of colors and textures. I get sink cut-out scraps from local sources, one small sink cut-out would make all the knife handles you could use. Corian routes nicely and is easy to polish.

Just an idea.

[Richard Allen]

Hi John

If there is a wood you are particularly fond of you can "treat" the wood with epoxy.

The oak would work fine if that is what you like. So cut and fit the scales (the oak part) to the tang of the knife(s). Use slow cure epoxy like West System with the slow hardener and the rivets. About 5 hours into the cureing of the epoxy stick the knife in the oven on warm and heat it all to about 120 degrees.

Apply epoxy to the warm surface of the wood.

Once the epoxy has cured hard (about two days) sand the surface epoxy off. You can apply lemon oil as you are acustome to doing. The epoxy treated wood should last for another 17 years.

Thanks

Richard

[John Schreiber]

Thanks for the suggestions above - as usual, information begets more questions.

I'm almost sure it would be cheaper if I buy new, but the steel is good quality and I'm stubborn.

I've been shaping the handles in two pieces around the tangs, then gluing the wood. I'm sure, if I can use just one piece of stock and avoid the glue, they will last longer. The steel of the blade continues along the back of the handle, but does not continue along the front of the handle. So, there is a 1/16th slot about 3/4" deep in the wooden handle that the steel slips into. How can I cut a 1/16" slot partway through a handle?

If I try the epoxy route, would I leave the wood rough to maximize impregnation? Do some, more porous, woods work better than others? And would I try to get the epoxy on all of the internal surfaces, or just the outside?

If I try the Corian route, does anyone know about the relative response to heat between corrian and steel? Any chance that they'd stay in about the same size relationship?

Thanks for letting me pick your brains.

[Richard Allen]

Hi John

The epoxy will soak into most woods. The really dense woods like desert ironwood won't absorb the epoxy, then again it won't absorb water either.

There are a LOT of materials you can use for knife handles. I would use the epoxy treatment if there was some wood I was fond of for the handles. Otherwise I would checkout the many different options for knife handles at a place like:

Texas Knifemaker's Supply (http://www.texasknife.com/TKS_Mainframe.htm)

Go to the online store and look for handle material.

As for applying the epoxy: I like to sand to 220 or higher. The heat will help a lot in "encouraging" the epoxy to soak in.

Thanks