Nova chuck wrench

[Marty Tippin]

The wrench that came with my Super Nova 2 chuck is a very loose fit for the chuck adapter and as such, I've managed to round off the corners of the adapter to the point that I can barely get it loose from the spindle anymore. I'll probably end up buying a new threaded adapter soon as a result, but I don't want to go down this same path again.

I don't have a regular open-end wrench big enough to fit the adapter, and my adjustable wrenches are all too wide to fit between the chuck and the head stock.

Did I just get a poorly-made wrench or is there a better wrench available somewhere? Will a regular open-end wrench fit? What size?

[Scott Hackler]

That is a very common problem. Just cut or grind off the "ball" end of the tool and you will be back in business. That is what I did to my SN2 tool and it works just fine now.

[allen thunem]

or if that fails contact nova and get the wrench designed to be used to remove the chuck from the headstock

[Ralph Lindberg]

That is a very common problem. Just cut or grind off the "ball" end of the tool and you will be back in business. That is what I did to my SN2 tool and it works just fine now.

Eh? You mean the "Allen" wrench for opening/closing the jaws? I think the OP was talking about the open end wrench that is used to remove the chuck from the spindle

[Paul Williams]

I never use the open end wrench. My adapter is kept from unscrewing from the chuck by a set screw. I just open the jaws enough to put the allen wrench across the face and pat it with the palm of my hand. Comes write off.

[allen thunem]

guess i was responding more to scotts fix rather than the original post
my appologies to marty for not reading his post more closely.
and anyone else for that matter

[Scott Hackler]

and I guess I didn't read the OP very good! I thought he was asking about the allen t wrench...oops

As far as a "chuck wrench" I don't think I ever got one, but I wouldn't use it anyway. I just lock the headstock, insert the t wrench and give it a short jerk. For the few times it has gotten "stuck" I got out a pair of pump pliers.

Sorry for the confusion....

[Harry Robinette]

I'm confused. I have all Nova chucks from the round jaw Compact through to the the Titan and never got a wrench with any of them. That's 8 chucks and no wrenches.
Oh ya I remove mine with the allan clamp in the jaws and then a hit with my hand.

[Marty Tippin]

The wrench came with the Super Nova 2 package from woodcraft. It looks like this
http://www.teknatool.com/products/chuck_accessories/spanner.htm
- look at the photos farther down the page to see what mine looks like.

I need a wrench because I sometimes need to remove the chuck with the work piece still in the jaws.

[robert baccus]

Also a stick 1/2"x2" x 12" of very hardwood inserted between the open jaws works well with no metal damage. I can't imagine bumping the hex wrench being good for anything.

[Scott Hackler]

Marty, for what it's worth... I am always removing the chuck with a piece clamped in it and I always use the t wrench in the adjustment hole method to remove it.

[Darryl Hansen]

Alan, teknatool has a "spanner" wrench that is thin an fits perfectly for removal of their jaws.

[allen thunem]

yep darryl i am aware
you do have to buy them separately tho unless you get a package deal as mentioned above

[Michael Mills]

I can normally remove mine by hand with very little force. I have used a strap wrench around the chuck body and you can apply a lot of leverage.
Now I usually use the 1/2 bar from a carbide tool clamped in the jaws if needed. You can also use your knock-out bar clamped between the jaws.

[Jon Nuckles]

I bought the Teknatool wrench and used it until it broke. I am no metals expert, but it didn't seem to be made from high quality material. In addition, it is thin at the handle end as well as the business end, and hurt my hand to apply the pressure necessary to break the hold of the chuck on the spindle. I now use a pair of channel-lock pliers and have no problems.

[ray hampton]

I not a bicycle mechanic but I believe that they require a similar wrench [THIN ]
check any bicycle shops in your area

[Jim Underwood]

I'm always loosening mine with the T-handle. There a problem with doing it that way?

[Marty Tippin]

I'm always loosening mine with the T-handle. There a problem with doing it that way?

I guess I'm not following you guys who do this. The T-handle on the Super Nova 2 is just an allen wrench and it doesn't seem to me that the allen socket on the chuck is deep enough for the handle to do anything useful. Are you guys talking about a different chuck and handle? Or do you put the handle somewhere else?

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I never bought a chuck spanner either. I've always used the allen wrench. I've been doing that for years. First thing you need to do is cut off the ball part. I think it's not the BEST idea to do so, but it is quick and easy. The SN2 is pretty hefty when it comes to that allen socket. Can't really see a large problem. Of course, eventually, I'll wear the allen socket to the point where it may not work anymore, but that is far down the line. As mentioned, it's not like you'll put tremendous pressre on it, just a quick hit with my hand is enough to pop the chuck free.

[Ron Lynch]

Marty,
I just checked my Nova chucks (SN2 and G3) and they require a 1 1/2" open end wrench. My adapters are for a 1"x8 thread. Measure your adapters across the flats and get a Harbor Freight wrench that fits your adapter, got to be cheaper than the Nova wrench.

[Toby Bouder]

My old Shopsmith wrench fits the adapter on my SN2. I had two so I taped them together, easier on the hand.

[robert baccus]

Marty, If I understand the question, you are complaining that the Nova wrench does not fit the adapter??? Its for the chuck which should have the adapter almost permanently attached to it. If you are using the adapter for several chucks find you a dedicated wrench to fit the adapter. Sounds like a lot of wear and tear sharing an adapter like that.

[Denny Nebgen]

I realize I am late to the party here but, I have 2 super nova 2 chucks and one wrench that came with one chuck. The othe r chuck does not have the insert. When my wrench started to get loose I laid a small bead of weld along one side of the wrench and ground it back with an angle grinder until it fit the adapter again. It should get me a few more years out of the wrench and prevent the adapter from wearing out.

[tom lucas]

If my hand can't break it loose with the spindle locked, the I use the allen wrench. If that won't work, then I use an adjustable sink drain wrench. Seldom have I needed to use the drain wrench (maybe never on my Novas), but it works and cost about $10 as I recall.

Also, if you carefully mark where your work piece is seated on the chuck, it can be removed and put back in and still get a pretty good center.

The use of a strap wrench is also a good suggestion.

[Richard Coers]

I realize I am late to the party here but, I have 2 super nova 2 chucks and one wrench that came with one chuck. The othe r chuck does not have the insert. When my wrench started to get loose I laid a small bead of weld along one side of the wrench and ground it back with an angle grinder until it fit the adapter again. It should get me a few more years out of the wrench and prevent the adapter from wearing out.
7 years is more than late. LOL

[Eugene Dixon]

I got an open end wrench (spanner) to fit at AgriSupply. About a 13" handle. Ground the face of the wrench jaws so they would fit behind the chuck. No need to hit the wrench with that much less leverage! I think I have ~$15 invested. Seems to fit all the NOVA chucks and the Oneways.

[Robert Hayward]

Use the term "service wrench" to find large jaw thin wrenches. My Nova inserts all take a 1 1/2" wrench. I have used the one pictured for years to remove stuck Nova chucks. I also have two different sizes that fit the spindle collet on my Grizzly oscillating spindle sander. The factory supplied wrenches for the sander split open soon after using them. The cheap Chinese service wrenches are still going strong. Harbor Freight sells them in SAE and metric, but sets only. Mine were bought off one of the non name brand tool trucks that go around to mechanic and auto body shops.

[Brice Rogers]

Garage sales are a good source for a dedicated wrench. I have two that fit my metal mill that are dedicated to it.

But a large wrench is less likely to be found at a neighbor's garage sale. So for my large spindle adapter, I made my own out of a chunk of aluminum. All I had to do was use my band saw to cut it to size and a few minutes with a file to "pretty it up". It is thin enough (probably 1/4" or 3/16") that it fits fine. Although it is made of 6061 aluminum it hasn't deformed. I also have a few specialty wrenches that are thinner and made from steel. They are easy to make and the process is rewarding.

[Tim Tucker]

I never bought a chuck spanner either. I've always used the allen wrench. I've been doing that for years. First thing you need to do is cut off the ball part. I think it's not the BEST idea to do so, but it is quick and easy. The SN2 is pretty hefty when it comes to that allen socket. Can't really see a large problem. Of course, eventually, I'll wear the allen socket to the point where it may not work anymore, but that is far down the line. As mentioned, it's not like you'll put tremendous pressre on it, just a quick hit with my hand is enough to pop the chuck free.


Same here. Either cut off the ball end - or better yet, just buy a long T handled Allen wrench and keep it for removing the chuck from the lathe. The socket *IS* deep enough for what little torque is needed to remove your chuck. Lock the spindle with the chuck's socket somewhere in the 10 to 2 o'clock position, insert wrench and bump it downward. If your chuck is harder than that to remove - check and clean/dress the threads on either your spindle and/or your chuck.

I find it insane on Nova's part that they expect you to place something in the jaws, clamp down on it - then whack it to remove the chuck...then you have to loosen the chuck's grip on the foreign object ( whatever your use....the chuck was NOT intended to have something clamped BETWEEN the jaws, then whacked.... :rolleyes:).
So, using the end of a hex key in the socket - or Allen wrench as your choice of wording prefers.....is not stressing the chuck or damaging it. It IS however...saving you 2 additional steps and time.:D

[Tim Tucker]

I never bought a chuck spanner either. I've always used the allen wrench. I've been doing that for years. First thing you need to do is cut off the ball part. I think it's not the BEST idea to do so, but it is quick and easy. The SN2 is pretty hefty when it comes to that allen socket. Can't really see a large problem. Of course, eventually, I'll wear the allen socket to the point where it may not work anymore, but that is far down the line. As mentioned, it's not like you'll put tremendous pressre on it, just a quick hit with my hand is enough to pop the chuck free.


Same here. Either cut off the ball end - or better yet, just buy a long T handled Allen wrench and keep it for removing the chuck from the lathe. The socket *IS* deep enough for what little torque is needed to remove your chuck. Lock the spindle with the chuck's socket somewhere in the 10 to 2 o'clock position, insert wrench and bump it downward. If your chuck is harder than that to remove - check and clean/dress the threads on either your spindle and/or your chuck.

I find it insane on Nova's part that they expect you to place something in the jaws, clamp down on it - then whack it to remove the chuck...then you have to loosen the chuck's grip on the foreign object ( whatever your use....the chuck was NOT intended to have something clamped BETWEEN the jaws, then whacked.... :rolleyes:).
So, using the end of a hex key in the socket - or Allen wrench as your choice of wording prefers.....is not stressing the chuck or damaging it. It IS however...saving you 2 additional steps and time.:D

[Randy Heinemann]

This thread seems a bit confusing. None of the Nova chucks or chuck adapters I have purchased have come with a wrench to remove the adapter (or the chuck for that matter). I have used a Milwaukee Locking Pliers which works OK. My original smaller chucks have a geared mechanism for closing and opening the chuck but the newer SuperNova 2 Pro-tech has a ball end hex wrench. With the geared chuck wrench I was able to insert it and bump it with my hand to loosen the chuck. The ball end hex wrench type doesn't permit that since the hex wrench doesn't fit tight enough. I have been looking for an adjustable wrench which opens enough to get around the adapter but can't find one. If anyone knows of where I could get large adjustable wrenches, I'd be interested to know where.

[John K Jordan]

... I have been looking for an adjustable wrench which opens enough to get around the adapter but can't find one. If anyone knows of where I could get large adjustable wrenches, I'd be interested to know where.

There are plenty of adjustable wrenches available. The 8" version of this one opens to 1-5/8". The 10" version opens to 2-1/32". I don't know if they are thin enough to fit between the headstock and the chuck body for all lathes. If not, some work with a grinder might do. (I've ground down plenty of smaller wrenches to get into tight spots.)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G8S7B37
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G8SXGRB

Nova used to sell an excellent wrench which fit the chuck inserts perfectly. Fortunately I bought two of them.
470500

Then they offered a "universal" chuck spanner so I bought one about 4 years ago because I wanted something for my Titan. I don't like it much. I can't see what's universal about it since I haven't been able to make it work acceptably with the Titan. It also struck me as poorly made. This is still available, but what I saw on Amazon was an outrageous price, especially for a sloppily made tool.
470499

I recommend doing like my Kubota dealer did when he needed a thin wrench for adjusting/removing the front axles on the 4wd tractors: cut one out of a piece of mild plate steel or bar stock. That way you can get any thickness and handle shape you want. I plan to do that for my tractor - cut out the jaws and a longish handle with my plasma cutter then clean up with the metal cutting bandsaw and some files or grinding disks. Could use the milling machine for a prettier wrench. The cutting could be done with a reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blades (Milwaukee "The Torch" are my favorite.) and clean up with a file, etc.

I, for one, will never remove a tight chuck with a chuck key, geared or hex. Some say they've done it for years but I've seen chucks damaged that way. If using the ball-end hex key at least grind off the ball on the end first.

The advice to lock a piece of wood between the jaws and use it as a force lever is OK unless you do what I often do: with plenty of chucks I often leave the work in the chuck jaws so I don't lose registration when removing and remounting. The wood stick method is not useful for that. I always use the wrench, even when the jaws are empty.

BTW, another use for the small end of the Nova wrench is to remove a live center or jacob's chuck from the tailstock without having to rewind the quill. Just fit the steel in the slot and pry gently. A screwdriver might work too but I haven't tried that.

Unfortunately the Nova Titan with direct threads (no insert) does not have flats for the wrench. My plan, if I ever get around to it, is to add some flats with my milling machine.

JKJ

[John K Jordan]

Update:

I ordered the larger of the two adjustable wrenches I listed from Amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G8SXGRB

470700

It came today. I tried it on two chucks pulled at random from my chuck drawers.
It fit the Supernova2 nicely.
It is a little tighter fit on the orig Supernova but should work OK.

I bought it for a different purpose. For removing a chuck I still prefer the original thin spanner from Nova.

JKJ


There are plenty of adjustable wrenches available. The 8" version of this one opens to 1-5/8". The 10" version opens to 2-1/32". I don't know if they are thin enough to fit between the headstock and the chuck body for all lathes. If not, some work with a grinder might do. (I've ground down plenty of smaller wrenches to get into tight spots.)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G8S7B37
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G8SXGRB

Nova used to sell an excellent wrench which fit the chuck inserts perfectly. Fortunately I bought two of them.
470500

Then they offered a "universal" chuck spanner so I bought one about 4 years ago because I wanted something for my Titan. I don't like it much. I can't see what's universal about it since I haven't been able to make it work acceptably with the Titan. It also struck me as poorly made. This is still available, but what I saw on Amazon was an outrageous price, especially for a sloppily made tool.
470499

I recommend doing like my Kubota dealer did when he needed a thin wrench for adjusting/removing the front axles on the 4wd tractors: cut one out of a piece of mild plate steel or bar stock. That way you can get any thickness and handle shape you want. I plan to do that for my tractor - cut out the jaws and a longish handle with my plasma cutter then clean up with the metal cutting bandsaw and some files or grinding disks. Could use the milling machine for a prettier wrench. The cutting could be done with a reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blades (Milwaukee "The Torch" are my favorite.) and clean up with a file, etc.

I, for one, will never remove a tight chuck with a chuck key, geared or hex. Some say they've done it for years but I've seen chucks damaged that way. If using the ball-end hex key at least grind off the ball on the end first.

The advice to lock a piece of wood between the jaws and use it as a force lever is OK unless you do what I often do: with plenty of chucks I often leave the work in the chuck jaws so I don't lose registration when removing and remounting. The wood stick method is not useful for that. I always use the wrench, even when the jaws are empty.

BTW, another use for the small end of the Nova wrench is to remove a live center or jacob's chuck from the tailstock without having to rewind the quill. Just fit the steel in the slot and pry gently. A screwdriver might work too but I haven't tried that.

Unfortunately the Nova Titan with direct threads (no insert) does not have flats for the wrench. My plan, if I ever get around to it, is to add some flats with my milling machine.

JKJ

[Randy Heinemann]

Thanks for the reference John. I've been afraid I'll mar the adapter using the locking pliers. Don't know why I didn't see these on Amaon before. I will also buy the larger 10" version as it will be good to have capacity larger than what I need.