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Mike Audleman
08-03-2014, 4:47 PM
Anyone have good tips on cleaning the tar/resin/smoke residue from an aluminum laser bed? I want to nip it in the bud before it gets too thick and thus harder to clean. The bed is not easily removable so short of dismantling a bunch of the machine, it has to be done in the machine.

I know Easy-Off would do it but thats nasty corrosive stuff and I am not putting it anywhere near electronics. I also considered turpentine as its derived from pine sap/resin and I thought it would dissolve the tar and resins. But I am leery about putting that in the machine as well.

When I first got the machine, I did cut stuff directly on the bed. Yea, mistake, I know. I have learned to lift the workpiece from the bed when cutting through now. But still some smoke does hit it and carry new deposits onto it. So I am trying to learn how to clean it now, before I really need to. And I am pretty sure those deposits are flammable. Not a good thing with a 50w laser aimed right at it.

Bert Kemp
08-03-2014, 5:04 PM
Super clean from walmart works great, Vinegar and water works petty good also. I just spray the super clean on and wipe off, vinegar and water spray on let soak a few min's then wipe off.

Clark Pace
08-03-2014, 5:36 PM
We sprayed our with some eco friendly krud remover and used a high pressure water spray at from the car wash. Worked great!

Rich Harman
08-03-2014, 5:50 PM
Krud Cutter is the best that I have found.

Mike Audleman
08-04-2014, 2:28 AM
Super clean from walmart works great, Vinegar and water works petty good also. I just spray the super clean on and wipe off, vinegar and water spray on let soak a few min's then wipe off.


Krud Cutter is the best that I have found.

Ok, will see if local stores have those. I think I remember seeing Krud Cutter at Home Depot the other day when I was in there but will make sure its the correct stuff. Yall sure they are safe around electronics and the motors?



We sprayed our with some eco friendly krud remover and used a high pressure water spray at from the car wash. Worked great!

Well, since I can't remove my bed without significant disassembly, as I noted above, I don't think I will be hauling it to the carwash ;)

Nicolas Silva
08-04-2014, 9:14 AM
I use Pledge.

Pete James
08-04-2014, 11:46 AM
Buy a pint of Everclear at the liquor store. If you are not happy with the job it does, just drink the rest.

Kev Williams
08-04-2014, 12:08 PM
get some xylene or Goof off (which has xylene in it), some denatured alcohol, and some Fantastik. And lots of paper towels. And some rubber or nitrile gloves.

First, douse the table with Fantastik, let it soak, then wipe it out. This will remove the basic crud.

Then turn on the blower because the fumes are horrible, soak a couple of paper towels with xylene, and wipe the table. This is to remove ALL cutting residue from cutting plastics. I usually have to run 2 towels worth over my table. Wipe dry afterwards.

Then use the alcohol, this will remove the residue from wood cutting the xylene missed, and will remove permanent marker (I use the table for notes)... Wipe dry.

Then another shot of Fantasik.

I'm also not shy about using razor blades and scotchbrite pads to clean up...

Bert Kemp
08-04-2014, 12:16 PM
get some xylene or Goof off (which has xylene in it), some denatured alcohol, and some Fantastik. And lots of paper towels. And some rubber or nitrile gloves.

First, douse the table with Fantastik, let it soak, then wipe it out. This will remove the basic crud.

Then turn on the blower because the fumes are horrible, soak a couple of paper towels with xylene, and wipe the table. This is to remove ALL cutting residue from cutting plastics. I usually have to run 2 towels worth over my table. Wipe dry afterwards.

Then use the alcohol, this will remove the residue from wood cutting the xylene missed, and will remove permanent marker (I use the table for notes)... Wipe dry.

Then another shot of Fantasik.

I'm also not shy about using razor blades and scotchbrite pads to clean up...

Seriously Kev/ way to much work. like i said before just pick up a $7 gallon of super clean from walmart auto dept. put some in a spray bottle and gently spray the alum bed, wipe off with a few paper towels. I also take my honycomb to the kitchen sink or out side when ol ladies home LOL sray it and hose right off. quick easy and does the job. I've tried verything else and this is the best for me

Nicolas Silva
08-04-2014, 1:57 PM
Just an aside, but if remember that if you're using something that creates a lot of fumes it may stick to your lenses.
Example, Easy Off Oven cleaner would work as well, but I don't want that in my machine.
It does however, work great for the honeycomb done outside.
Cheers!

Mike Chance in Iowa
08-04-2014, 2:05 PM
Have you tried using a Magic Eraser? It does wonders and you can find them at the grocery store for only a few dollars.

Mike Audleman
08-04-2014, 3:18 PM
Just an aside, but if remember that if you're using something that creates a lot of fumes it may stick to your lenses.
Example, Easy Off Oven cleaner would work as well, but I don't want that in my machine.
It does however, work great for the honeycomb done outside.
Cheers!

Yes, I use easy off cleaner on my grill (cooking grill...outside). Its very caustic and can be corrosive to bare soft metals. I would NEVER use it in the laser machine itself.

I am surprised its ok on your honeycomb. I thought it reacted with aluminum. Hasn't been a issue for you?

Mike Chance in Iowa
08-04-2014, 3:22 PM
I am surprised its ok on your honeycomb. I thought it reacted with aluminum. Hasn't been a issue for you?

When I first bought my laser, my salesman told me to clean it with easy off. You know that saying about hindsight ... the salesman disappeared shortly after the sale was made. That cleaner was very caustic to my honeycomb. It made it so gunk sticks even worse then before.

Mike Audleman
08-04-2014, 3:31 PM
When I first bought my laser, my salesman told me to clean it with easy off. You know that saying about hindsight ... the salesman disappeared shortly after the sale was made. That cleaner was very caustic to my honeycomb. It made it so gunk sticks even worse then before.

Not surprising. Its been an "underground" tool to remove anodizing on aluminum pieces for years. I suppose we could use it too eh? Laser cut a mask. Spray easy off on the exposed areas. Wait 5 minutes and then wipe the anodizing right off. But, on bare aluminum, I would assume it would eat into the surface like an acid etch would. Probably why stuff sticks to your honeycomb more now. Its got more surface area to sink its teeth into.

Nicolas Silva
08-04-2014, 3:39 PM
It has not been a issue thus far, but then the cutting table doesn't get used (or cleaned) a lot.

Mike Chance in Iowa
08-04-2014, 4:15 PM
Not surprising. Its been an "underground" tool to remove anodizing on aluminum pieces for years. I suppose we could use it too eh? Laser cut a mask. Spray easy off on the exposed areas. Wait 5 minutes and then wipe the anodizing right off. But, on bare aluminum, I would assume it would eat into the surface like an acid etch would. Probably why stuff sticks to your honeycomb more now. Its got more surface area to sink its teeth into.

Oh it's sinking it's teeth into it! In no time, I went from an essentially brand new, barely dirty honeycomb to a grid that looked 40 years old, pitted and breaking apart. I didn't even really need to clean it, but because it was only about a month old, I wanted it to look "purty and spotless" again and followed the advice of my salesman. I had no idea engraving forums existed at the time. A few months after I destroyed the honeycomb, I discovered the forums and found others had been told to use easy off and their grids were trashed too!

Kev Williams
08-04-2014, 6:09 PM
Seriously Kev/ way to much work. like i said before just pick up a $7 gallon of super clean from walmart auto dept. put some in a spray bottle and gently spray the alum bed, wipe off with a few paper towels. I also take my honycomb to the kitchen sink or out side when ol ladies home LOL sray it and hose right off. quick easy and does the job. I've tried verything else and this is the best for me I love SuperClean, but it won't clean my table by itself. Nothing will. That's why I use 3 cleaners. And razor blades and scotchbrite pads.

But then, I don't clean my table very often, so when I finally get around to it, it's pretty bad... ;)

And btw, the reason Superclean and oven cleaners work, is good ol' sodium hydroxide, aka LYE. It WILL eat aluminum and steel, given enough time....

Gary Hair
08-04-2014, 10:41 PM
I clean my machine pretty much every day, more than that if I cut then engrave anything that leaves any residue. It looks like it's almost new and it's 8 years old! I use DNA and a paper towel, for really sticky stuff I'll use a gray scotch brite pad - nothing sticks with that combo.

Gary Hair
08-04-2014, 10:42 PM
But then, I don't clean my table very often, so when I finally get around to it, it's pretty bad... ;)

Yep, it's only a several-thousand-dollar machine, why clean it?

Robert Tepper
08-04-2014, 11:23 PM
I clean my vector table daily since most of my work is vector cutting. Last year the aluminum just basically wore out. I was able to find replacement aluminum vector table material from a company called Plascore. I purchased a 4 x 8' sheet cut into four pieces for $200 plus $100 for shipping. I changed it once so far with the new material and when it stated to wear, I opened up the frame and just flipped the material over. BTW it cuts like butter on a table saw with a carbide blade.


Robert

Rich Harman
08-04-2014, 11:56 PM
Steel honeycomb tables have the great advantage of being magnetic. An aluminum one would be a big problem for me. Much of what I cut needs to be held flat, strong magnets are a simple and effective way of accomplishing that.

I've cleaned my honeycomb table once in three years, it is certainly due. The table beneath has been cleaned many times, pretty much every time I remove the honeycomb.

Bert Kemp
08-05-2014, 8:33 AM
Kev said"And btw, the reason Superclean and oven cleaners work, is good ol' sodium hydroxide, aka LYE. It WILL eat aluminum and steel, given enough time...."

I clean my bed at least once a week and I'm sure it doesn't get a 10th of the use yours does, maybe a couple hours a day if that. I also take a clean damp rag and wipe off the super clean afterwards, so hopefully my bed will be ok, besides that laser is dead and not in use now anyway and I don't know if I'll even bother to see whats ailing it . Might be a good cat bed like one of are other members 2 fsl lasers are being used for LOL

Nicolas Silva
08-05-2014, 10:13 AM
Don't be a jerk. We were talking about the down draft table not the laser itself. It does not reside in the laser unless it needs to be
used which as I indicated isn't very much. The laser itself gets cleaned regularly.

brentton huey
08-05-2014, 11:55 AM
On mine what i use is the mr clean magic sponges. no mess no spraying and liquid but works great. definetly my first option

Kev Williams
08-05-2014, 12:05 PM
Yep, it's only a several-thousand-dollar machine, why clean it? Why indeed. :)

I make no apologies. My machines aren't for looks, I keep them busy. I work from 7:30am to 1am every day just to keep up with the work. I don't have time to play janitor. Maintenance- keeping the belts & lenses clean, guide rails & lead screws cleaned & lubed, etc, the IMPORTANT stuff- I do regularly. But dirt & grime simply does not bother the machines, or me. I have a 33 year old Concept 2000, three 25 year old 5000's, three 20 year old V3400's, a 20 year old V3200, a 9 year old IS7000, a 4 year old IS400, a 17 year old ULS laser and an 11 year old LS900 laser.. And they all work and make me money. That's 229 years in service spanning only 12 machines, and I've never paid anyone a dime to maintain or repair any of them. And repairs have been minimal.

I clean stuff up when I find spare time. Which I rarely find... ;)

Josh Borlovan
08-05-2014, 5:22 PM
Scrubbing Bubbles. It cleans the wood residue like a champ! Recommended by my rep so I used it and I can't even imagine anything working any better

Kevin Gregerson
08-05-2014, 6:53 PM
Can't believe anyone hasn't said it. But your lens cleaner actually does pretty good on the bed. You can also use acetone on the bed(only place recommended to use it), just make sure you wait a bit for it to evaporate before using the laser.

-Kevin

Bert Kemp
08-05-2014, 8:28 PM
Steel honeycomb tables have the great advantage of being magnetic. An aluminum one would be a big problem for me. Much of what I cut needs to be held flat, strong magnets are a simple and effective way of accomplishing that.

I've cleaned my honeycomb table once in three years, it is certainly due. The table beneath has been cleaned many times, pretty much every time I remove the honeycomb.
Wow if I don't clean the honey comb it flares up from the crud on it, I think keeping it clean is more important that the bed.

Rich Harman
08-05-2014, 10:08 PM
Wow if I don't clean the honey comb it flares up from the crud on it, I think keeping it clean is more important that the bed.

I agree, I wish it wasn't such a big production to clean it, it's over 4ft x 3ft.

Mike Audleman
08-06-2014, 11:06 AM
I agree, I wish it wasn't such a big production to clean it, it's over 4ft x 3ft.

Its not the removable honeycomb I was originally asking about. It was the aluminum base plate thats attached to the Z screws.

http://www.jinlantrade.com/ebay/sh350dlaserengraver/img29.jpg

Mike Chance in Iowa
08-06-2014, 12:55 PM
Its not the removable honeycomb I was originally asking about. It was the aluminum base plate thats attached to the Z screws.


Mr Clean Magic Eraser. You will be amazed with how easy it is to clean.

Rich Harman
08-06-2014, 2:43 PM
Its not the removable honeycomb I was originally asking about. It was the aluminum base plate thats attached to the Z screws.

I was responding to Bert, who was responding to my comment (post #21) about honeycomb beds...

I'm surprised no one else has mentioned Krud Cutter, I first learned of it here. You spray it on, wait a minute, then wipe the table clean. If the residue is really thick I might have to do it a couple times, mostly due to the fact that it dissolves the gunk so readily that it smears around when you try to wipe it up. There may be other products that work as well but I cannot see how anything could work any better.

Mike Chance in Iowa
08-06-2014, 3:18 PM
I'm surprised no one else has mentioned Krud Cutter, I first learned of it here. You spray it on, wait a minute, then wipe the table clean. If the residue is really thick I might have to do it a couple times, mostly due to the fact that it dissolves the gunk so readily that it smears around when you try to wipe it up. There may be other products that work as well but I cannot see how anything could work any better.

Krud Kutter has been mentioned by many of us in several other posts specific to cleaning the honeycomb grid. This thread has been not been about cleaning the honeycomb. Lots of us Krud Kutter fans on this forum!

Mike Audleman
08-06-2014, 3:19 PM
I was responding to Bert, who was responding to my comment (post #21) about honeycomb beds...

I'm surprised no one else has mentioned Krud Cutter, I first learned of it here. You spray it on, wait a minute, then wipe the table clean. If the residue is really thick I might have to do it a couple times, mostly due to the fact that it dissolves the gunk so readily that it smears around when you try to wipe it up. There may be other products that work as well but I cannot see how anything could work any better.

Rich Harman (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?76880-Rich-Harman) mentioned it in post 3 :)

Joe Windsor
08-07-2014, 2:39 PM
+1 on the Krud Kutter. Have been using it for years without problems and great results.

Joe