What's the best way to square off the end of a 4x4?

[Alan Lightstone]

Simple question, but not sure of the answer.

I'm making some posts for a pet gate. They are 4x4's. My Festool Kapex doesn't have that capacity, nor does my Sawstop table saw.

I'm thinking bandsaw, but wondering if that can make a perfectly straight cut through that.

Alternatively, are there other approaches with hand tools or power tools that will work?

[Rick Lizek]

Make a three sided box as a guide and use your handheld circular saw.

[Dave Zellers]

I do it on my 10" radial arm saw. As long as i'm cutting less than an inch or so, it can do it perfectly.

Seems like a band saw would work if it had a hearty blade, say 3/4". Also wouldn't two crosscuts on a table saw using a stop work?

[Jack Jackson]

I've used the cut - turn over - cut again method on the miter saw several times. Especially if you use a stop block on your saw fence then it's easy to make the 2 cuts meet almost perfectly in the middle... that's how I would do it.

[Myk Rian]

No matter what saw you use, make sure the blade is 90º to the table. Check it twice.

[Jamie Buxton]

Hand saw -- specifically a pull saw. You can cut a softwood 4x4 in a minute or so. And a pull saw can cut a very straight plane. Pencil marks on two adjacent faces. Sink the post in the ground, then cut the top off at the right height.

[lowell holmes]

I would cut it with my 7 1/4" circular saw, using a speed square to make a square cut. The saw would not cut all the way through.

I would finish the cut with one of my crosscut hand saws.

[Erik Loza]

Hand saw -- specifically a pull saw...

+1 ^^^

Exact same way I do it, seems to work fine.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Rich Engelhardt]

Decorative caps are your friend ;).

[Prashun Patel]

Crosscut on the tablesaw as deep as it will go, then rotate and repeat.

[Jason Roehl]

I agree with the circular saw and speed square approach. The trick is to rotate the post only 90º after the first cut so that you can align the blade with the cut (saw off), set the speed square, then run the saw again. Repeat again.

[Alan Lightstone]

Are you holding the speed square with your hand and using it as a guide, or clamping it?

[Sam Murdoch]

Lots of the above will work fine. My least favorite would be the circular saw.

Jamie and Erik (post 6 & 8) suggest using a handsaw and that would be my choice, especially if cutting to length after setting the posts. Build a 3 side plywood box as a guide and if you want a bit of extra alignment - saw a kerf on 2 sides first. The kerf will help the saw track straight. This is very easy and fast in pine, spruce or cedar - more tedious in hardwoods but still effective.

My 14" Laguna bandsaw will do such a cross cut nicely with a sharp blade and a cross cut sled.

And finally, I agree with using your Kapex with a stop and doing the cut twice. If the saw is set up perfectly square and vertical this will be fast and accurate.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I would use a cross cut sled on my table saw. Cut and turn, then cut again. Of course, it would depend somewhat on how long the posts are. If they weigh a ton, I would bring the circular saw to the post, rather than trying to bring the post to the table saw.

[Chris Merriam]

For the suggestions on using a stop, either with table or miter saw, how would you use a stop if you can't guarantee that the end is square to begin with? As you rotate the piece against the stop you could end up changing the cutting length if you're not careful.

[lowell holmes]

The question was not specific if the post is in the shop or in the field.

If your building a wooden fence, you might very well set all of the posts, string a line to mark the tops of the posts, and then cut the posts to level the top of the fence.

If that is the case , a speed square and circular saw is a good way to go. You notice I didn't say only way to go.

I prefer to finish the cut with a handsaw because I find it quicker than having to level the square and circular saw with the previous cut.

If you are in the shop, a band saw with a miter gauge is hard to beat.

[scott vroom]

A chain saw makes quick work of softwood fence post tops.

[Jason Roehl]

Are you holding the speed square with your hand and using it as a guide, or clamping it?

Holding and guiding. Align the stopped blade with the kerf after rotating the post 90º, then butt the speed square up to the saw's base and the post.

[scott vroom]

Holding and guiding. Align the stopped blade with the kerf after rotating the post 90º, then butt the speed square up to the saw's base and the post.

Not sure I'd wanna be holding a speed square inches from a spinning blade while holding the saw sideways one handed against a post..... When I've used a speed square I've used it to draw a straight line around the post, make the first cut then make the second cut on the 90 degree face, using the first cut for alignment, with both hands on the saw, and then follow the pencil mark around until the cut is complete. Doesn't have to be perfect. Matter of fact, lotta folks recommend cutting posts off at a slight angle to discourage standing water on the end grain.

[David Winer]

I just have to put in my two cents. My next door neighbors and I have put in a lot of fence posts, some 4x4, some 4x6, some 6x6. I made a circular saw guide-jig of wood to set the saw on. When it came time to cut the tops we attached the jig to the posts with deck screws using a drill/driver. This made nice clean cuts. We finished the tops by beveling a large 45 degree with a router.

One guy on the ladder. Other guy handing up drill/driver, saw, unscrew drill/driver, and router in turn. Worked nicely.

[Jack Jackson]

On how to use a stop on a miter saw (or table saw either way) - I simply square the post up on the miter saw fence and take the thinnest slice possible to square one end, using the cut - turn - align kerf and cut again method; then I just use that end to push against the stop and that gives you a square end (since you kept the post squared against the saw's fence on each cut). It sounds much more complicated than it is since the first cut is simply done by eye then the next cut is just pushed against a stop. For example, if you're stop is on the left, then start with the board on the right hand side of the blade, cut your thin slice to square that end then just slide it over to the stop and make the next cut.. repeat. Once it's set up it goes really fast and you can be sure that they are all exactly square and exactly the same length.

[Keith Weber]

You have a Kapex, and you have to ask?

[Alan Lightstone]

You have a Kapex, and you have to ask?

Yeah, because my initial attempts weren't perfect.

It's not in the field, it's in my workshop.

The bandsaw is tempting also. I'm thinking a 3/4" blade and a crosscut sled would work.

I did the first one with the Kapex. I found that if I cut too deep the first time with the Kapex then the wood would flex the cutoff piece and not make a square top. Hard to figure out how much tension to put on that.

I like the pull saw idea, but don't have one.

[Jason Roehl]

Not sure I'd wanna be holding a speed square inches from a spinning blade while holding the saw sideways one handed against a post..... When I've used a speed square I've used it to draw a straight line around the post, make the first cut then make the second cut on the 90 degree face, using the first cut for alignment, with both hands on the saw, and then follow the pencil mark around until the cut is complete. Doesn't have to be perfect. Matter of fact, lotta folks recommend cutting posts off at a slight angle to discourage standing water on the end grain.

I was thinking in terms of cutting the post to length as it sits horizontal on sawhorses. For a vertical post in the ground, the suggestion of a jig screwed to the post sounds good to me, though I'd probably just trace the line around the post and cut to the line.

[Keith Weber]

I did the first one with the Kapex. I found that if I cut too deep the first time with the Kapex then the wood would flex the cutoff piece and not make a square top. Hard to figure out how much tension to put on that.

I'm not sure what "flex the cutoff piece" means. I'll make an assumption and assume that you meant that the blade was flexing to the side when you cut into the wood. If that's the case, then you're probably just feeding it too hard. Take it slow and let the saw do the work. I have a Makita, not a Kapex, but I can't see why taking a half-depth cut on one side and then flipping it over for the finish cut wouldn't work. I've done that on my Makita, and on my old Cabinet Saw (with a Exaktor Slider) and they both worked fine. If they're not cutting square, then they're probably not set up properly. Check your setup with a good-quality square.

[Dave Zellers]

I think he means after the first cut, if the stop only touches the thin waste piece, it can flex into the kerf throwing off the setup. Seems like this would never be a problem if the stop is big enough to always touch an uncut part of the end.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Sharp handsaw, western style, with care in laying out cut lines.

[keith micinski]

I think he means after the first cut, if the stop only touches the thin waste piece, it can flex into the kerf throwing off the setup. Seems like this would never be a problem if the stop is big enough to always touch an uncut part of the end.


I do the opposite, make a cut then remove the piece and have your stop only be high enough to touch the freshly cut half. Then you can square up the other end and flip it end for end now you have the freshly cut squared end touching the stop.

[keith micinski]

Although my answer is to use my twelve inch Milwaukee scms. This is actually the main reason I decided to keep it even though I don't use it that much.

[Alan Lightstone]

I do the opposite, make a cut then remove the piece and have your stop only be high enough to touch the freshly cut half. Then you can square up the other end and flip it end for end now you have the freshly cut squared end touching the stop.

I'd like to think that has been the case, but it hasn't. Perhaps I'm taking too deep a cut with my first pass. Or need to be more gentle moving the half-cut piece towards the stop block.

[Prashun Patel]

Try yr tablesaw.

[Mike Wilkins]

What you need to do is get one of those Martin sliding tablesaws. They have models with over 5" cutting capacity that would make short work of those posts.

[Larry Fox]

If it were me and I didn't have a 12" table saw I would do it with Home Depot's RAS. The HD I use has a big 16(ish)-inch RAS and they have done this for me before.

[Doug Hobkirk]

Obviously you need a new tool. Hooray!

Milwaukee 10 1/4 Circular Saw (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6470-21-10-1-4-Inch-Circular/dp/B003O951PS/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1407168873&sr=1-1&keywords=milwaukee+saw+10). 18 pounds, $380, 3 13/16" depth of cut at 90 degrees.

After you finish the posts, if you find it cluttering up your shop, feel free to send it to me and I will adapt it to my Eureka Zone saw track system.

Cheers!

[Peter Kelly]

If you've got a chainsaw, it's pretty simple to create a jig for square cuts.

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/CMS/uploadedImages/Images/Homebuilding/Tips/hb146tp04-01_lg.jpg

[Alan Lightstone]

If you've got a chainsaw, it's pretty simple to create a jig for square cuts.


http://www.finehomebuilding.com/CMS/uploadedImages/Images/Homebuilding/Tips/hb146tp04-01_lg.jpg

Wow. Chainsaw. Didn't see that one coming.

[Peter Kelly]

There's also the Prazi Beam Cutter if you happen to have a Skill Saw or similar. Pretty inexpensive at $125.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41CH96UVBtL._SY450_.jpg

http://www.toolbarn.com/prazi-pr-2700.html

[Nicholas Carey]

What standard of cut are you looking for? The way the question is phrase, it sounds like you want a pretty clean cut.

One of the rationales for my purchasing a Bosch 5312 double compound slider (http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=5312) is that it can cut an honest 4-1/4 x 12-1/12 at 0°/0°(square). Great saw.

i might have to change to their new Bosch GCM12SD (http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=GCM12SD) 12-inch articulated (meaning it doesn't use linear motion bearings) double compound slider, which claims an exceedingly optimistic 14 inches x 6-1/2 cutting capacity. The real reason for the upgrade is that it doesn't need beaucoups clearances from the wall: since it's articulated and lacks the linear motion rods/track, it can be snugged up right close to the wall.

[Ole Anderson]

If you want a clean cut you really need a blade that will do it in one pass, no flipping. Have any of you suggesting a TS or BS ever tried to use one to square the end of an 8 foot 4x4? The problem is trying to keep a long, heavy 4x4 perpendicular to the blade with a lot of weight overhanging the table without using a helper or a massive sled. Simple solution is a miter saw as the wood doesn't have to move at all, just chop off the end. My 10" Milwaukee MS will cut 3.5" x 3.5" in one pass all day long. And it isn't a compound or slider. Still not sure why a fancy Kapex can't do it. Yea, a 12" RAS will do the trick in one pass, but your average shop doesn't have one. My old Monkey Wards 10" RAS would do one pass as the motor was geared. But it is no more. Had to make room for my router table years ago.

[Prashun Patel]

I must have missed where he said the posts were 8 feet long.
I thought this was for a pet gate. For pieces < 60", I have no issues cross cutting at the table saw.

[Mark W Pugh]

Why are we worried about the squareness of post before sinking???? Sink the posts, find level cut lines, and cut with whatever you need to. You DO NOT want to cut these things to the lengths, you think you need, before sinking. JMHO.

I'm a little confused on what you really want to do.

[Alan Lightstone]

Indoor pet gates. Posts to sit on plywood squares. Need to be roughly square. Tops of posts very visible. Also need to be quite square.

This is going in the living room of a high end house. Needs to look finished. Will have dyed and lacquered finish. So, yes, it needs to be pretty straight.

[Garth Almgren]

Maybe it's because I'm tired, but my cheap Hitachi 10" miter saw has no problems with a 4x4 cut at 90deg to the fence and I can't imagine a Kapex would not be able to do the same... Am I missing something?

[Tom M King]

In the shop for a clean cut, 12" radial arm saw. In the field on a line of posts, MS180. If neither is convienient, handsaw. Have cut many by marking lines on three sides, and cutting with a circular saw.

I have to cut one off for a Permit Box. I'll count the strokes with an 8 pt. crosscut handsaw, and report back the number of strokes for a reference for those who would use a pull saw.

[pat warner]

Can be cut to length on some bandsaws.
I do it on my 14", tho unwieldy on longs heavy stock, still manageable.
Then to the edge/radius sander.
For soft wood, #120 is very abrasive.
For an 8' 20# pound stick, a support is essential.
But the sander will erase all saw cut defects and no tearout.

[Rod Sheridan]

Simple question, but not sure of the answer.

I'm making some posts for a pet gate. They are 4x4's. My Festool Kapex doesn't have that capacity, nor does my Sawstop table saw.

I'm thinking bandsaw, but wondering if that can make a perfectly straight cut through that.

Alternatively, are there other approaches with hand tools or power tools that will work?

Anyone in your neighbourhood with a Euro sliding table saw?

They'll cut and support a 4 X 4 in one shot..........Rod.