Laser question for a friend

[Bob Oswin]

My buddy over in Chicago area is trying to get a powerfull enough laser engraver to mark stainless steel instrument handles.
We he last enquired they suggested he needed a $50,000.00 unit to do this.
That is pretty much out of his budget right now.

The question:

Is there a unit out there that is capable of this task at a more realistic price?

Any leads would be greatfully recieved.

Bob

[Bob Tate]

Hi, you can check any of the Laser manufacturer sites, Epilog.com comes to mind as that is what I own. Just about any of their lasers will mark Stainless using a chemical coating that turns black when the laser light hits it. There is a good explanation on the Epilog site. You can do it for a whole lot less than 50K.

Bob

[Aaron Koehl]

Hi, you can check any of the Laser manufacturer sites, Epilog.com comes to mind as that is what I own. Just about any of their lasers will mark Stainless using a chemical coating that turns black when the laser light hits it. There is a good explanation on the Epilog site. You can do it for a whole lot less than 50K.

Bob
One particular chemical for metal marking is called "Cermark".

[Bruce Volden]

Bob,

The "I can do this I think" topic in the laser forum (pg.2) addresses surgical instruments. A 25watt machine will do the job easily. Don't be afraid of a used / rebuilt system as long as it has "some" warranty, as there are reputable companies out there doing a good job. Also system mfgrs. often times take in older machines when companies upgrade...etc. and resell them with warranties!

[Bob Oswin]

Bob,

The "I can do this I think" topic in the laser forum (pg.2) addresses surgical instruments. A 25watt machine will do the job easily. Don't be afraid of a used / rebuilt system as long as it has "some" warranty, as there are reputable companies out there doing a good job. Also system mfgrs. often times take in older machines when companies upgrade...etc. and resell them with warranties!

Thanks Bruce:

I am a bit out of my elelment here as I am computer literate doing this favor for a friend who is not.
So, the next silly question:
Is there software out there for step and repeat or will I have to get some done up for him?
I can't see how you load the print area unless there is a tray of sorts to assemble the parts to be marked.

bob

[Mike Mackenzie]

Bob,

The Universal system has a method of marking stainless without Cerdec. It is not a fast process but does work you may want to check it out.

[Bruce Volden]

Bob,

Are you asking how to engrave in a specific area of a certain part and then come back in a week and do the same to another part?
I use CorelDraw, if I scan the part to be engraved and save it, I'll then take it over into Corel Trace wher I can vectorize it. Once it is in a vector format I can cut my own template / jig. Then lay the part in the jig and "engrave" or "mark" it.
All this may sound quite complicated but it really is not!!!

[Bob Oswin]

Bob,

Are you asking how to engrave in a specific area of a certain part and then come back in a week and do the same to another part?
I use CorelDraw, if I scan the part to be engraved and save it, I'll then take it over into Corel Trace wher I can vectorize it. Once it is in a vector format I can cut my own template / jig. Then lay the part in the jig and "engrave" or "mark" it.
All this may sound quite complicated but it really is not!!!

Hi Bruce:
Actually we have batches of several dozen, hundreds, of similar instruments.
I had envisioned building a rack that would hold a bunch of these in position on the laser platten so that a program could etch the same information on each part, then load another tray and do the same again.

Bob

[Bruce Volden]

Bob,

I think we're on the same train of thought. I use the laser to "make" my jig (s) and am then able to engrave away! The important thing to remember is that the laser has to know where to start / stop it's engraving. That is why I like to do the "vectorization" thing. Once you have a a lay out set up the machine will always know where to start / stop. Also you can even make changes to accomodate different fonts / graphics on the fly!
In a nut shell you basically "cut" out (with laser) where the hemostat et- al (many) is to be positioned and save the file.

[Joe Pelonio]

There are two kinds of lasers, CO2 such as Epilog are good for plastics, wood and Coated metals, but will not cut or etch into metal. Yag lasers which cost nearly twice as much are good at engraving metals, but not for wood or plastics. Experimenting with my 45W Epilog 24TT I was able to etch an
image on chrome using 100 power 4 speed but it's barely visible. You
have to either use cermark, paint then laser the paint off (letters white
background black in corel) or buy a yag.