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keith zimmerman
05-24-2003, 1:01 PM
I am considering the purchase of a new router to be dedicated to my router table. What HP rating would be good for this purpose? My current and only router is an old Craftman 1 hp I inherited from my father. It works great, but I don't care for the time it takes to switch from hand-held to the router table.

Any opinions? Please, I am not at the point where I am looking at brands yet. There are a lot of them and most are good tools. I'm interested in the HP rating so I can start shopping for one that fits my budget.

Thanks in advance.

keithz:confused:

Bob Reilly
05-24-2003, 1:20 PM
As long as it's going to be dedicated to the table,buy the largest there is, a 3 1/4 horse as to your budget i think the Freud 2000 and the Hitachi M12V are the cheapest at $179.00 can't go wrong with either one. BTW don't go by the horse power that's a bunch of baloney, go by amps.

Jim Stastny
05-24-2003, 2:03 PM
I agree with Bob. Since it will be dedicated to a table go with a larger router. I would also recommend the ones he did. However, I would add the big Porter Cable to the list. Also, I would suggest a plunge based instead of a fixed based router.

Jim Becker
05-24-2003, 5:12 PM
Originally posted by keith zimmerman
I am considering the purchase of a new router to be dedicated to my router table. What HP rating would be good for this purpose?

When you look at routers, forget about "horsepower" as it's a totally meaningless number pulled out of someone's...well, you know what. Look at amperage. The higher the amperage rating, the more powerful the machine will be. For dedicated router table use, a 15 amp router is going to be what you want to choose. You can "get away" with a 12 amp tool, but some operations with large cutters are going to suffer from it.

As far as fixed versus plunge...that's a religious decision and argument. I'm on the side of the "fixed" folks (perhaps that's a poor description to use for people...:D ) with or without a lift. I find plungers harder to use in a table from an adjustment and bit installation standpoint. With a fixed base router, you can pop the motor out if you need to for cutter installation/deinstallation and height adjustment is merely a simple twist of that same motor...unless you invest in a good lift. If you do go the lift route, the best all around choice for a router is probably the venerable PC 7518 workhorse. Most of the lifts are specifically designed for this motor, although adapters are available for some others.

Von Bickley
05-24-2003, 5:36 PM
Keith,

I agree with Jim in that you can't go by HP. Look at the amperage.
I would seriously look at the PC routers and also look for a variable speed.

Did you get all the plywood on the walls???

Jim Becker
05-24-2003, 6:52 PM
Originally posted by Von Bickley
...and also look for a variable speed.

Good point about VS...it's pretty much required for table use. Any cutter larger than about an inch and a quarter must be run at a slower RPM. Large panel cutters need to be run in the 10-12K rpm range for safety.

keith zimmerman
05-27-2003, 3:17 PM
Thanks for the info on the router amperage. It will help me decide what to get.

I was able to get about 90% of the plywood up on the walls. I hope to finish this weekend.

keithz

Bill Esposito
05-27-2003, 9:09 PM
Keith,

Take a look at the review I did for the Triton router (http://cerealport.net/woodworking/triton). It's a bit pricey but lots of features, doesnt need a lift, and the bit can be changed from above the table.