Wood for drawer bottom question

[Raymond Fries]

I am building the Woodsmith drill press storage cabinet. The plans call for 1/4" hardboard for the drawer bottoms. The only place here I can get a 2' x 4' sheet is Menards online. Only $6 but then they want another $14 to ship it to the store. Really?

I am thinking about using 1/4" oak plywood for the bottoms of the drawers since I am using Oak for the cabinet. Has anyone used plywood for the drawer bottoms.

Anyone know of a reason why I should not do this?

Thanks

[George Bokros]

I have used ply for drawer bottoms. If you plan to put a fair amount of weight in it you may want to use 3/8.

[Jamie Buxton]

Plywood is stiffer than hardboard of the same thickness, so it is actually better than what your plan calls for.

George's suggestion of 3/8-thick ply is good, but would mean buying 3/8 ply. A slightly different way to go will work if your drawer bottom is the usual design, with the 1/4" ply dadoed into the drawer sides, front, and back. That design gives you a recess below the drawer bottom. Just glue another piece of 1/4" ply on to the underside of the bottom. The additional layer of plywood doesn't go all the way to the edges of the drawer, but it does mostly fill the recess. You can use up cut-offs and scraps, and even piece together the layer -- nobody will ever look there. You can think of the result as a 1/2"-thick bottom, reduced to 1/4" where it is dadoed into the drawer sides. Very strong.

[Frank Drew]

If by hardboard you mean masonite or equivalent, then I'd always use a decent piece of ply rather than that.

[John T Barker]

$14 to ship it to their store? OMG! By all means use ply...and don't buy from Menards.

[glenn bradley]

I typically use 1/4" BB ply in all but the largest service drawers. In finer stuff I use a similar or complimentary (to the drawer box) solid wood. I would use ply in your application in a heartbeat.

[Raymond Fries]

Thanks for the tips guys! Some great ideas here.
Gonna make a trip to Lowes today to get the plywood for the cabinet and the drawer bottoms.

[Jim Matthews]

Look for offcuts in the back.

You're going to make smaller pieces,
anyway.

[Jon Grider]

Plywood is stiffer than hardboard of the same thickness, so it is actually better than what your plan calls for.

George's suggestion of 3/8-thick ply is good, but would mean buying 3/8 ply. A slightly different way to go will work if your drawer bottom is the usual design, with the 1/4" ply dadoed into the drawer sides, front, and back. That design gives you a recess below the drawer bottom. Just glue another piece of 1/4" ply on to the underside of the bottom. The additional layer of plywood doesn't go all the way to the edges of the drawer, but it does mostly fill the recess. You can use up cut-offs and scraps, and even piece together the layer -- nobody will ever look there. You can think of the result as a 1/2"-thick bottom, reduced to 1/4" where it is dadoed into the drawer sides. Very strong.

+1, I use the same method as Jamie.

[Larry Frank]

I just looked at the Menards in Ft. Wayne South and they list 1/4" hardboard as in stock. My Menards always has it in stock in several different sizes. Maybe some kind of mis-communication?

[Raymond Fries]

I always shop at the one on Meijer Drive as it is close to home. Could be a problem on their web page. I went to Lowes today and picked up 3/4" and 1/4" oak plywood for the project. Based on posts here, oak plywood is a better choice for strength and it was only $4 more than the hardboard. Looking forward to the project as this is my first sheet goods project.

Will post a picture when done.