How to cut a curved chamfer... help me find a 13 to 15 degree chamfer bit

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I am trying to repair a patio bench that has metal sides and a metal back. The seat is wood slats and the metal back has wood that goes around the perimeter of the back. I have two difficulties. First, the top of the bench back is curved. Is is similar to this:
293146

Not a problem except for the fact that edge on the metal back is angled so I need to chamfer the edge of the wood that sits against the back properly.

The angle appears to be roughly 13 to 14 degrees. For a straight cut, I can simply angle the blade and be done. For the curved cut, I figured that I can drop in a router bit and just route it. My first thought was that I would do something to a router base to put it at an angle and then run a straight bit. Would be even easier if I could just find a chamfer bit at close to the correct angle. I own a whiteside 2300 chamfer bit that has a bearing on the top. This is a 15 degree bit and it is clearly too much of an angle. Also, the bit is not large enough. That might not be too much of a problem, but my guess is that it would leave roughly 1/4" without a chamfer.

I think that the Whiteside D14-75 is a 14 degree bit and it will make a larger cut, but, it has no bearing, which would make things tricky / difficult. The D14-100 may be again a good choice for the angle, but again, no bearing.

The Freud 40-98 looks like an excellent choice and I think that it is my lead contender.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-40-098-1-Inch-15-Degree-Chamfer/dp/B0002TUCP2

[Rich Enders]

Andrew,

Maybe I don't understand what you are trying to do, but if it is for a single bench wouldn't it be simple enough to do by hand with a plane or a spokeshave, or even a rasp? You said it is a patio bench which in my mind reduces the need for precision. A couple of guide lines to work to and and only you will notice any small deviation.

[Jerry Miner]

1. spokeshave/rasp
2. laminate trimmer with tilt base
3. 14 deg. dovetail bit/template bushing/template

[Loren Woirhaye]

You can buy 15 degree bottom-bearing chamfer bits. An altered router sub-base or minor hand tool work can be used to refine the angle.

[Max Neu]

I think you already got some good advise.But if you happen to use Festool routers,they make a coppying bearing that attaches to the base,and rides on the edge of the workpiece for non-bearing bits.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I think you already got some good advise.But if you happen to use Festool routers,they make a coppying bearing that attaches to the base,and rides on the edge of the workpiece for non-bearing bits.
I do indeed own a Festool Router. I will look into this. Thanks.

For everyone else.... For full on straight sections, it is easy, so, it is the curved section that is mostly of interest. As you say, as a bench, close is certainly good enough, so, a 14 or 15 degree bit is likely sufficient. I do own a rasp so I can cleanup with that. Might be a good excuse to purchase a spokeshave for the curve (just because). Certainly if it is off a bit on the top, I think that it should work fine regardless because it will still contact nicely along the show face and be supported from the back. I had not considered using a rasp, but I do own a few.

Thanks for the tips.

The owner asked me to paint it when I am finished. I don't usually like to paint wood, but, it will likely help it last longer when I am finished.

[Mike Wilkins]

Situations like this is the reason I am a hybrid woodworker; both power and hand tools get used to complete a project. You may have to break out the spokeshave and hand planes. If you don't own these, this would be a great time to start. Lee Valley/Veritas is only too happy to satisfy your cravings.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Situations like this is the reason I am a hybrid woodworker; both power and hand tools get used to complete a project. You may have to break out the spokeshave and hand planes. If you don't own these, this would be a great time to start. Lee Valley/Veritas is only too happy to satisfy your cravings.

I own some hand planes (one 8 and 4, and two 6 and 5... and a few non-standard planes), but, a curved sole would be good for in the curve, so a spoke shave might make sense there. I have never used or owned one.

Feed the addiction..... Any thoughts on a curved or flat sole?

[lowell holmes]

Plus one for Mike.

It sounds like a job for a spoke shave to me.

[Rod Sheridan]

This is one of those odd times when a tilting spindle shaper really shines, no need for special tooling, just run a rebate head with rub collar tilted to the correct angle.

That said, for one piece, block plane or spoke shave are the most practical............Rod.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I want that tilting spindle shaper....