Do I wash(er) or not?

[Eric Gourieux]

I vaguely recall a discussion on this topic in the remote past, but I'll give it a go (again). I have been using a nylon washer on the spindle to keep my chucks from binding and getting stuck on the spindle. When I try to turn without the washer, I have to use a spanner wrench to remove the chuck. Well, my spanner wrench broke, so I'm revisiting the possibility of going washer-less. I'm not torquing the chuck onto the spindle, but it gets stuck while turning. Long ago, the proximal end of the spindle threads (closest to the headstock) was damaged by the set screw on a chuck. I probably tried removing the chuck without loosening the set screws. Who knows? Anyway, does anybody have a suggestion to keep the chucks from binding on the spindle? Or, should I continue to use the nylon washer and forget about it? My chucks seem to run true, so I don't appreciate any down side to using the washer. What are your thoughts?

[Aric Krueger]

If you want to go washer-less:
1) make sure the lathe is off
2) remove the turned piece from the chuck
3) tighten the the chuck jaws onto a board, such as a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" (2x2) piece about 8" long (or an old hammer handle)
4) lock the spindle (if your lathe is so equipped) or hold the spindle with a wrench
5) use the leverage of the handle grasped by the chuck jaws to remove the chuck

[Michelle Rich]

I have cut plywood "washers" and used for years..works fine

[charlie knighton]

when I first turned I used a washer, I do not now, I use a t-handle thingy in the set screw to remove the chuck

[Thom Sturgill]

IF you use a plastic/nylon washer be sure to examine it regularly to insure that it did not deform. I have seen washer induced 'wobble' where the washer had caught on the shoulder of the spindle and held the chuck off the end.

[John M. Smith]

I never use the washers. Causes wobble in chuck or faceplate.

[Eric Gourieux]

Thanks for the replies. It looks like I'm not alone.

Tom, that is a good point. I think it's time to replace my current washer - or make one.

Aric, that works fine IF you are ready to remove the piece from the chuck. When I run into difficulty is when I want to remove the chuck with the turned piece still chucked.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

IMO the washer could cause alignment problems in some applications, and lots of chatter, especially when I core. I don't use one amymore. One class I took, I asked about the washer, and his response is to tighten down the chuck on the spindle. Any of the methods above works. The problem with NOT tightening down the chuck, is the chuck can get hammered onto the spindle, and that hammering from being too loose causes the chuck to jam onto the spindle. Ever since I started torqueing the chuck onto the spindle, I've had only 1 time the chuck got stuck onto the spindle where I had to hit it with a mallet to get it off. Normally a quick hit with my hand will get it loose.

Visit garage sales and find one of those vintage thin "monkey wrenches". The pipe-wrench looking ones with smooth jaws. They open up big enough to grab the adapter nut, and at the same time they are short enough to be handy. That is what I use.

[Wally Dickerman]

I don't recommend using a washer. Lathes are designed to give best results with steel to steel. A washer will give not quite so solid a cut with the tool

The reason people have problems with stuck faceplates or chuck is that they don't tighten them securely enough. When the lathe is turned on the weight of the blank and the chuck snaps the chuck against the headstock....resulting in a stuck chuck or faceplate.

[Scott Hackler]

No washer for me either. I will apply a little oil (with my finger) on the mating surfaces ever once in a while. I haven't had a stuck chuck in a while.

[Frank Drew]

This is reassuring... I thought it was just me with washer induced runout.

[Thom Sturgill]

I don't use a washer either. I tighten and loosen by hand rotating the mounted piece and hitting the spindle lock button on my Jet 1642. The mechanism is solid enough at low speed not to be a problem and I've done this for years. Of course I generally turn smaller pieces, but the momentum has generally been enough to break the chuck loose. I've only had to use a wrench to remove a chuck two or three times, and at least one of those times I had sanding dust in the threads from prior work between centers. I now keep a small, stiff brush handy and check and clean the threads more often.

[John M. Smith]

Wally sid it much better than I. Totally agree with him.

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

get a great big crescent wrench from Harbor Freight for $20 or so - use it on the flats of your chuck adapter, then lock the spindle. All it takes is a small amount of force to to remove the chuck with a big wrench.

[john taliaferro]

While sanding in reverse my chuck worked loose so i had the brilliant idea to switch in in to foward . I had to use Aric's board idea to unscrew it . Don't hammer on the chuck screw it will bend and bind the chuck [ 25.00 $] .

[Doug Herzberg]

I've been using a washer, but after reading this, I think I'll stop.

[Joe Meirhaeghe]

I've never used a washer, never saw the need for it. Several members of our club have reported wobble & run out problems while using washers.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I got in the habit of using a washer on my first lathe - the spindle was so galled when I got it I had to file the threads just to get the chuck to seat. When I got a new lathe, I just kept on using the washer until I started to see the dreaded chuck wobble. Removed the washer, lost the wobble and only use one when I'm using the vacuum chuck these days.

[robert baccus]

Might as well do it right. Buy a 4$ can of anti-seizing compound at an auto store. Prevents jams, galling and wear. These threads might have to last a lifetime. Brush a bit on the spindle 3times a year--no washer issues also. Most machine shops use it.

[Eric Gourieux]

This is great info. I have heard the wobble-inducing argument before but didn't think I was experiencing it. I did have a real problem using the Mcnaughton coring system, though, and this may be the issue. After so many expert opinions, I'll be sure to tighten the chuck onto the spindle better and see how that goes without the washer. I'll try the oil trick, too. One of the reasons that this became an issue with me, as I mentioned, is that my chuck wrench broke. After looking for a better replacement (I think my old one was from Woodcraft, and was quite thin), I'm having trouble finding a 1.5" wrench that is thin enough to fit between the chuck and headstock. I'll look for an old wrench, as was mentioned above. HF does have a set of jumbo wrenches, but I don't want to pay $60-70 for the set just to get the 1.5"

[John M. Smith]

I've bought large single wrenches at Tractor Suppy for cheap before.

[robert baccus]

I wouldn't waste my time on oil. The anti-seizing compound is a heavy grease incorporating both fibers and powdered aluminum--never had a tight faceplate and I turn very heavy stuff at times.

[John Brown]

Eric,
Go to a welding shop and have a wrench made.

[John Keeton]

Pawn shops are good sources for odd wrenches. That is where I got my chuck wrench for $1!

[Dwight Rutherford]

I use a cheap adjustable plumbers wrench. http://www.doitbest.com/Plumbers+tools+and+joint+wrench-Do+it+Best-model-408302-doitbest-sku-408302.dib

[Jamie Donaldson]

Never use a washer to chuck on a spindle, and its not advisable to use the spindle lock to unscrew a stuck chuck. The pins that lock the spindle are not sturdy enough on most lathes, and don't ask how I learned that expensive lesson!

[charlie knighton]

and its not advisable to use the spindle lock to unscrew a stuck chuck

if not spindle lock, do you just hold the other end of the spindle with one hand and the chuck with another?
?

[Jamie Donaldson]

Use 2 wrenches, as the inserts on most chucks have flats, and another wrench for the spindle flats.

[charlie knighton]

THANKS, good tip

[Steve Peterson]

I use brass washers. My lathe (Oneway 1224) has a really long spindle adapter. My SuperNova2 chuck does not fully seat without a 1/8" thick spacer. I think it is a Nova spindle adapter and not the cheap aftermarket version. I had an order with McMaster-Carr and added a couple of 2" OD x 1" ID x 1/8" thick bronze bearings onto the order. I recall that they were fairly cheap, somewhere around $1 each.

I do admit to using the spindle lock while removing the chuck. I have never had a chuck get really tight. Roughing out a 24" diameter burl could really jam itself tight.

Steve

[Kyle Iwamoto]

its not advisable to use the spindle lock to unscrew a stuck chuck. The pins that lock the spindle are not sturdy enough on most lathes, and don't ask how I learned that expensive lesson!

My Jet 1642 does not have flats, I have to use the spindle lock.

[charlie knighton]

Kyle, my 1642 also has no flats on insert or spindle either, I very gently used spindle lock today also

I wonder if there is some way to put it in reverse ??????? without spinning it off the spindle

[Jerry Rhoads]

Good trick Aric, thanks

[robert baccus]

Do it the right way---buy a 4$ can of antiseizing compound at a auto parts store. Eliminates jammed threads and misalignment due to washers. Also it lubes the threads which may be used for many years. Most machinist use it faithfully. A dab 2-3 times a year does the trick. Also a properly tightened work piece should not back off when in reverse. A great wrench which fits all chucks is a stout piece of 1/2" thick stick. Stick it in the jaws and make it as long as you like.