Ball point proof a cherry table top/desk

[Judson Green]

Any thoughts on making a cherry table top ball point pen proof?

Wanting to NOT do a film finish, but would like to avoid the dreaded "ghost note" - your grocery list indelibly, yet faintly embossed in the table top/desk.

In my other post sizing with liquid hide glue, it looks like that process might help some, but looking for other options.

[Prashun Patel]

I have a cherry counter done in Waterlox and it's held up very well. YMMV.

[Judson Green]

But that's a film finish, right?

[Prashun Patel]

oops. sorry. read that wrongly!!!
The only way I know to do this without a film is to use the right wood.

You don't necessarily need a THICK film to give your protection, though. Can you tolerate a thin, varnish film?

To the extent that your in-the-wood finish is satin sheened, scratches and pen marks will be less visible than on a gloss surface.

[Bill Houghton]

If it's a desk, put a blotter on it. My wife gets a big, blotter-sized calendar from one of the big boxy stores every year, which also serves as a good reminder of the things that you need to get behind on doing.

[george wilson]

You aren't going to get a finish hard enough to resist the ball point. BTW,"Rock Hard Varnish" by Behlen is quite soft. I found that out back in the 70's. I had a relationship with some of their chemists back then,from my experiments with making varnish. One of them told me that they named it Rock Hard because it resisted alcohol. That NEVER made sense to me,as the stuff is VERY SOFT.

The hardest thing I know of is well dried(for years) Nitrocellulose lacquer. But,I'd also just recommend the blotter,or put a sheet of glass over it!!:)

[William Adams]

Give the person a fountain pen to go w/ the desk.

[Judson Green]

Its actually a kitchen table, but it also, mostly, used as a desk. This is just for my use, so I can be careful.

Was hoping there might be an ancient solution.

As I said, the hide glue sizing might have provide a benefit here. I'll do a sample.

[Dimitrije Stamenkovic]

Here most of the wooden kitchen tables have a glass sheet on top of them, but I'm not sure if it's common practice in the West.

If the glass is well supported it's basically impossible to crack it, you have to hit it with a hammer or overheat it. It's the best solution for writing, it's very easy to clean anything you spill on it, and it will leave the cherry grain in plain sight while protecting the wood forever. Also it's cheap.

[Sam Stephens]

but don't hard finishes (shellac, lacquer) tend to show scratches much easier than soft finishes like poly?

totally random thought, but i know that baseball bats used to be boned i.e. rubbed hard w/ a bone of bottle or something. Supposedly it prevents any denting and flaking. not quite sure how to do a table top that way though.....you'd need a really big bone!

[Jussi Auvinen]

but don't hard finishes (shellac, lacquer) tend to show scratches much easier than soft finishes like poly?

totally random thought, but i know that baseball bats used to be boned i.e. rubbed hard w/ a bone of bottle or something. Supposedly it prevents any denting and flaking. not quite sure how to do a table top that way though.....you'd need a really big bone!

Pre-compress the fibers with a sledge :D

[Prashun Patel]

Not necessarily. Hard surfaces like my waterlox counter will abrade and scratch easily with anything rough. But it resists DENTS pretty well - like ball point pens or pencils through a piece of paper.

That being said, I still try to use a magazine under when I have to write. My son is not so careful.

[James Owen]

Since you've got a nice cherry table top, make or buy a leather blotter to go with it. Not only will it look classy, but it will also be very pleasant to use for writing, and, of course, will protect your table top.

[Frederick Skelly]

Here most of the wooden kitchen tables have a glass sheet on top of them, but I'm not sure if it's common practice in the West.

If the glass is well supported it's basically impossible to crack it, you have to hit it with a hammer or overheat it. It's the best solution for writing, it's very easy to clean anything you spill on it, and it will leave the cherry grain in plain sight while protecting the wood forever. Also it's cheap.

+1. That's exactly what I was going to suggest.

[glenn bradley]

Ron Popiel's cherry wood hardener!?! Cherry is not the hardest of surfaces for a desk. Great for a table but, as yours is serving double duty I would use a blotter or do my writing on pads of paper with a cardboard backer.

[Judson Green]

Ron Popiel's cherry wood hardener!?!


Coat it and forget it!

Where do I send my money?

[Jim Matthews]

Sounds like a writing desk is your next project.

My kids have marked up our dining table, in Eastern Black cherry -
as well they should.

Some kind of overlay is called for, if you want the surface to remain smooth.

I would try an inexpensive plastic placemat first, to see if you like the feel.
It should not have a texture that will translate through the paper as you write.

292656

[Judson Green]

Jim, that's totally my style!

Pony of Ni! Or perhaps it should be Niihiihii!

292658

[Sean Hughto]

I really don't think this is possible short of impregnating the wood with acrylic like those blue spruce mallets. Glass or leather or blotters of various sorts are the only real alternatives. Otherwise, just embrace the patina.

[Winton Applegate]

Ball point pen proof table.
awwwww that's easy:
Build a desk with a nice leather writing surface and a comfortable desk chair.
Buy a nice sword, you know, a big two handed zarker, and hang it on the wall near your cherry table.

Then call a family meeting. Let it be known desks with leather WRITING surfaces are for writing on and that anyone who writes on the cherry table gets to play the role of sword target.

You could coat the table with epoxy clear coat but then you would be stuck with looking at it.
Better to bury a few bodies (every family has a few skelletons in the closet so get busy bro) and have a nice natural wood finish table I say. Maloof finish.

[Winton Applegate]

OK, ok
As much as I would like to speed up the process of "natural selection" I understand this is a "family oriented" forum.
So . . . in the spirit of all that rot, I mean, goodness and light (if I have to, I guess) . . .
. . . I will share with you my Winton Systems Approach
mostly cause I can sit on the couch and write stuff but I also use these to protect the table.

TA DAAAAAAH !

The actual writing surface on both is Blacksmith's leather from Tandy's leather supply. Comes pre finished and ready to make stuff out off. I use it for everything. From my pocket folder/wallet to one of my shop aprons.

One advantage of it over the usual leather writing surface that I have seen is this blacksmith's leather kind of holds the paper in place and you can write one handed without having to hold the paper from sliding around.

The small one is a clip board with the clip removed. Between the board and the leather I always keep a page or three of scrap 8-1/2" x !!" paper for . . . you know . . . writing on.

The larger one is "high tech". The base layer is a foam core drafting board with two metal side edges for using a small T-square on (super light weight), the second layer is a layer of drafting table self healing mat for using compasses etc and the top layer is obviously the blacksmith's leather.

This large one is for when I really start to get crazy and need more communicatin' room.
The drawing was from a thread when Derek and I were banging the table about something or other . I think we wound up agreeing but in the heat of the post it seemed like we were on separate planets.
Awwww the power of the pen.