Straight Line Ripping With A Skilsaw

[John McClanahan]

I found this on You Tube. Looks like a novel way to get a straight rip cut with a simple power tool. What do you think?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkBsNvEHV30


John

[Greg Peterson]

Interesting. Great setup for a shipwright. And like he said, the bench is designed to do one thing; save time. I suppose you could scale it down to furniture makers dimensions, but it would still take up a lot of room in a hobbyist shop. This bench works because the scale of the work requires a different approach. Even an Oliver jointer would be hard pressed to be as quick, easy and effective as this bench.

I like it, and definitely is different way to approach the task.

[scott spencer]

Pretty neat....and simple.

[Andrew Kertesz]

That was interesting... I was surprised at his feed rate, looked like it was pretty fast to me. Anybody recognize that blade?

[Bill Huber]

That was interesting... I was surprised at his feed rate, looked like it was pretty fast to me. Anybody recognize that blade?

It looks like a Dewalt, has that yellow edge on is.

[Peter Kelly]

Eastern White Cedar so he can go pretty quickly.

[Al Launier]

I was also surprised at how fast he made the cut & was further surprised that the board, especially the shorter ones, din't need to be clamped. No apparent shift of the boards at all. Very efficient setup indeed!

[Mark W Pugh]

So, how do you guys make the first straight edge on your lumber? I don't have room for another machine, so what is the easiest and cheapest way to do it?

[Greg Peterson]

So, how do you guys make the first straight edge on your lumber? I don't have room for another machine, so what is the easiest and cheapest way to do it?

Jointer is the tool of choice for creating a straight, square edge.

[Mark W Pugh]

Jointer is the tool of choice for creating a straight, square edge.

No jointer here. Other ideas?

[Clint Baxter]

A track saw is an effective way to straighten an edge. I used my TS-75 to straightline rip 8/4 maple boards for my bench top. I do have a long rail that allows me to do 8' boards.

Clint

[Shawn Pixley]

No tailed jointer here. First method - I have an aluminum guide the is over 8' between the two sections. I clamp it to the lumber and rip with my worm drive on sawhorses. Joint with #7 plane after.

Second method - I built a jig for my tablesaw. Run it through. Joint with #7. Typically this will be on stock 6' or less. Depending upon the project, I break down stock before straight line rip.

[Jim Matthews]

+1 on an edge guide and saw with a fixture to hold it on the track.

This layout is excellent for really heavy boards that won't shift, and seems designed for that task only.
I use the Eurekazone EZSmart guide with my ancient Porter cable circular saw.

It's rare that I cut anything so thick as shown in the video.

Recently, I've had excellent results with a portable jigsaw running the Bosch blades.

http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/BoschAccessoryDetail.aspx?pid=T101BF#specs
Jigsaw blades will deflect in ways that circular saw blades won't, if fed too quickly
but the finish quality on both sides is excellent.

[Lee Schierer]

So, how do you guys make the first straight edge on your lumber? I don't have room for another machine, so what is the easiest and cheapest way to do it?

I use a 6' long, 1" aluminum tube against my ts fence and the board against the tube. I shim between the tube and the board. The shims equalize the pressure on the tube as I make a rip cut on the free edge.

[Mark W Pugh]

I use a 6' long, 1" aluminum tube against my ts fence and the board against the tube. I shim between the tube and the board. The shims equalize the pressure on the tube as I make a rip cut on the free edge.

Any pictures? I'm not understanding how this works. Thanks.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Depending on what the board looks like, and what I am trying to end up with:

1. Edge is reasonably in-line - jointer. Especially efficient for shorter pieces of stock, where I have rough-cut [ie - oversize cut] component parts. A pain on long boards.

2. Big variation from narrow to wide end - this happens often when I buy a flitch. The butt end gets a lot wider than the narrow end. I draw a quick line, and run it through the BS.

3. I am cutting for grain orientation on components, and I won't be following the general shape of the board. I am getting components out of the board at a angle. Sketch parts, and go to BS and something for crosscut [hand saw; bayonet; circle saw.

4. Multiple boards that are of the same general thickness; parts will run with the board's shape; too much edge variation for jointer: I have a sliding jig with destaco clamps that I run through the TS. Clamp positioning is adjustable - just that it's a pain to adjust for big variations in thickness.

[Roy Harding]

Sliding table saw. Clamp it to slider, run it through blade, done.

This only works on pieces up to 7' as that the is extent of my slider.

Edited to add: I just re-read the original question - before I had the slider, I used an aluminum straight edge with my Skil saw, setting the lumber either on scrap planks, or styrofoam sheets on the floor.

[Lee Schierer]

Any pictures? I'm not understanding how this works. Thanks.

Here's a sketch that hopefully will help. Note the shim in front of the tab on the aluminum tube to keep the board from rotating during the cut.
292785
You position the board to get the uneven edge against the aluminum tube which rides on the fence providing a straight edge. The blade rips the other edge parallel to the fence. Once the cut is complete you have a board with one straight edge. Flip it over and remove the aluminum tube, readjust the fence and rip the other side and the board has two straight edges.

This is the same principle as a shooting board or sliding table without the surface under the piece being cut.

[Ken Andersen]

So, how do you guys make the first straight edge on your lumber? I don't have room for another machine, so what is the easiest and cheapest way to do it?

I keep a 6 inch (or so) wide strip of 1/2 inch plywood with a factory edge handy for this purpose. To cut a straight edge on a board, tack the plywood to the top of the board with the factory edge overhanging the opposite side of the board and parallel to the desired cut. Set your saw fence suitably and run the factory edge against the fence.

I use either finishing nails or small screws for tacking, placing these in the waste at each end of the board.

[John McClanahan]

What caught my interest is how simple this could be built. 3 straight 2x4s and some 2x2s is all thats needed. The 2x4 used as the edge guide could be jointed on one edge. Sitting it on sawhorses or even on the ground. After use it can be stored on end.

For a weekend warrior like me, this rip guide could make rough sawn lumber easier to get started milling.

John

[Kent A Bathurst]

Sliding table saw..

OK, Roy - you officially suck. :D :D

Don't we all wish we had that option? I sure as heck do.....................

[Kevin Bourque]

I build a temporary set up using saw horses and metal studs. Pretty much what this guy did only nothing is permanent. The metal studs are perfectly straight and not affected at all by moisture. Plus they store away easily.

[Michael Weber]

I keep a 6 inch (or so) wide strip of 1/2 inch plywood with a factory edge handy for this purpose. To cut a straight edge on a board, tack the plywood to the top of the board with the factory edge overhanging the opposite side of the board and parallel to the desired cut. Set your saw fence suitably and run the factory edge against the fence.

I use either finishing nails or small screws for tacking, placing these in the waste at each end of the board.
This ^^^^^^^^^^^