Can old 10" chop saw work as metal cut-off saw?

[Doug Hobkirk]

The question in the title occurred to me as I stepped around, yet again, this anvil-like* Makita 2401B chop saw (bought at a yard sale for $10 as a gift for a friend who later said "I don't need it, I can use my radial arm saw."

I realize heat build-up is a major issue, but I'd probably only use this a few times each month. It seems like it would be more convenient than using my reciprocating saw. The specs are:

The Makita brochure was printed in Japan in 1979
Continuous watts input is 1380 and output 750
No-load speed is 4,100 RPM.


Thanks

* It's 19" wide, 20.5 deep, and 18" high (typical sized, in my estimation) and it weighs 50 POUNDS! Egad!

[Max Neu]

I tried it with an old delta miter saw, it worked ok.Since I rarely need to cut metal, I just went to Harbor Freight and bought an actual metal cutoff saw, it works much better. I only need it for cutting closet rods and file bars, so the HF works fine for that.

[John McClanahan]

I tried it on a Craftsman saw I had. Grit got into the tilt joint and the saw never worked as smooth as before. Also, you may not be able to use the blade down as far as in a metal chop saw, meaning that the blade may run out of reach unless some shims are used in the miter box part as the blade wears down.


John

[Peter Quinn]

Probably not the best idea, but assuming you have a way to secure the work I can't see why it wouldn't function as a metal curt off saw. Speed range is close to most chop boxes,

[Thomas S Stockton]

Doug
I bought a Lenox brand steel cutting blade for my chopsaw and it works great. It is a normal looking blade not an abrasive one. I use it mostly to cut square tubing and ALWAYS clamp down the piece being cut.
I got it at lowes the item # is 367710 and model # is 1809129
Tom

[Roger Nair]

A lot of hot stuff flying around, so if any plastics in the guards and ejection path could be subject to rapid oxidation.

[scott vroom]

I've got a decades old 10" Craftsman POS chopsaw that I keep setup with a metal cutting blade for EMT conduit, aluminum door shoes, and an occaisional steel pipe. It'll throw lots of hot sparks so gloves and full face protection are a must...same as an angle grinder.

[David C. Roseman]

I've got a decades old 10" Craftsman POS chopsaw that I keep setup with a metal cutting blade for EMT conduit, aluminum door shoes, and an occaisional steel pipe. It'll throw lots of hot sparks so gloves and full face protection are a must...same as an angle grinder.

Scott, when you say metal cutting blade, are you using an abrasive-embedded fiber blade or a carbide-toothed blade like Tom mentions?

[Mike Cutler]

What kinda metal are you talking about?

Aluminum, brass, copper and very mild steel extrusion forms, yes.
If you try to cut steel plate with it, it probably won't do much. The speed of the blade is too high.

[Rick Lizek]

Are you talking ferrous or non-ferrous?????

If you mean an abrasive metal cutting saw, yes. Lots of sparks and not good in a wood shop. If you mean a cold saw with a toothed carbide blade, no. Rpm is way too fast. Dry cutting 14" cold saw is 1500 rpm. A wet cutting cold saw runs at 50 to 100 rpm with a HSS blade and give a mill finish and will easily cut a chunk of4" x 4" solid steel. Cutting a 4" chunk of solid brass or aluminum is no problem at 4000 rpm with a standard negative hook blade found on most chopsaws.

[Doug Hobkirk]

Are you talking ferrous or non-ferrous?????

If you mean an abrasive metal cutting saw, yes. Lots of sparks and not good in a wood shop. If you mean a cold saw with a toothed carbide blade, no. Rpm is way too fast. Dry cutting 14" cold saw is 1500 rpm. A wet cutting cold saw runs at 50 to 100 rpm with a HSS blade and give a mill finish and will easily cut a chunk of4" x 4" solid steel. Cutting a 4" chunk of solid brass or aluminum is no problem at 4000 rpm with a standard negative hook blade found on most chopsaws.

OK, you and the others got me thinking:
Circumference - 14" D = 44", 10" D = 31.4"
Speed - 14" saw @ 1500 RPM = 10" saw @ 2100 RPM

14" metal-cutting saws run a range of speeds - Most seem to turn around 1,400 RPM, but I noticed the DeWalt D28710 turns 3500-4000, and then I noticed that it is an "abrasive saw."

So I will try an abrasive "blade" on my clunker old chop saw and see how it works. I actually have a 10" abrasive blade [and 6" and 7 1/4"], but I hadn't thought of that.

Thanks all for the excellent advice. I will be sure to keep you apprised as I burn holes in my flesh and torch my workshop in an attached garage.

[ray hampton]

you may find that a metal shield between you and the saw will be needed to stop the sparks otherwise you may buy a leather apron to cover your chest and neck

[Andrew Howe]

I use my old craftsman chop saw as an occasional metal cutting saw. works great with an abrasive blade. +1 on the spark protection.