Dial vs vernier calipers

[John Stevens]

Hi folks,

I want to buy a non-electronic caliper, but the variety out there is dizzying and I could use a little help.

What are the advantages of a dial caliper as compared to one with a vernier scale? Disadvantages?

Vernier-scale calipers come in lots of styles--some appear to have a roller-knob to move the jaws. I've used that style, and it seems ok.

Others have two lock-knobs with what looks like a separate fine-adjustment knob. What's that for, how is it used?

Still others look to lock the jaws with a squeeze-lever instead of a threaded knob. How well does that work?

Any other points I'm missing? Thanks in advance for your help.

--John

[Dennis Aspö]

I have a cheap vernier caliper which is rubbish, it has a push button that unlocks it so you can slide it back & forth. I recently acquired a used Mitutoyo 530-104 which is superb. It locks with a twist knob instead of the push button type. I think it's much nicer to use. The readings are also clear. I prefer the vernier because it is so simple and reliable.

[Bill Huber]

I have a 40 year old Craftsman you can have if you want it. It is in really good condition, been in a case all it's life.
If you want it send me a PM with your address and I will mail it right out.

[Pat Barry]

There is a good explanation of the vernier scale here : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vernier_scale

My dial caliper can be 'zeroed' wherever I choose by rotating the dial. Then its easy to get relative measurements plus or minus. The same functionality is on the digital calipers. Overall digital is probably much easier to use, more precise, faster. The vernier type is probably the least fragile of the bunch.

[glenn bradley]

I find fractions therapeutic and so have fractional calipers. Probably due to a 30+ year career in binary, octal and hex. I have two of the ones Lee Valley offers (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=46036&cat=1,43513,43546&ap=1) and one from Woodcraft about 10 years old. I also have one from Peachtree that is quite rough in construction and use although cost about what the Lee Valley ones did. All read in 64ths which is as fine as I need to get in what I use calipers for in the shop (the Lee Valleys also have a 100th's scale). I keep one by the drills/drill press area, one on the planer and one at the bench; I don't really know where the Peachtree one is ;-)

[Loren Woirhaye]

A dial caliper can get "off" with debris in the rack. This is hard to notice. You won't remove the error by changing the bezel zero position because the cog wheel will skip over the debris, moving the jaws but not the dial for a bit. There's a way to get the debris out... and it probably doesn't need to be done very often.

A vernier caliper would not do this I think. I have a couple but I don't use them for taking dimensional readings.

In any case, for woodworking tolerances are forgiving in relation to metal machining. The digital calipers probably work well, though batteries may be an annoyance. The mechanism is different from a dial caliper and seems more debris resistant to me. I have a DRO on my planer and I assume it's a similar thing to a digital caliper.

[Shawn Pixley]

I have one like Glenn that does 90% of my tasks. Though mine is a plastic and metal General brand I also have a high end digital caliper (metric and imperial) and a good micrometer for the increased precision needs.

[Myk Rian]

After having 20+ years experience repairing precision tools, I can say with all confidence that the HF dial caliper is accurate. I have one with fractions/decimal.

[Myk Rian]

There's a way to get the debris out... and it probably doesn't need to be done very often.
A straight pin gets dirt out of the rack.

[Larry Copas]

I like my vernier calipers. Only trouble I have to find and use my reading glasses before use. One of the pitfalls of age.

The dial calipers are much easier to see and read. Gave away my digital calipers as I detest those pieces of technology.

[Lee Schierer]

I had a dial caliper in my shop for a few years and it got clogged up with saw dust and became hard to use. I got rid of it and purchased a digital caliper from Harbor Freight for $10. It has worked great for more than 10 years. The only problem is that it tends to go through batteries even when you are not using it. I use it to measure thickness of boards I am planing, thickness of tenons, widths of grooves, etc.

[John Stevens]

Thanks everyone for your help. I didn't mention it, but I have an electronic caliper that eats batteries, which accounts for my interest in a non-electronic version.

[Mike Henderson]

I have a Starrett 6" fractional dial caliper. (http://store.greatgages.com/servlet/-strse-1588/1202F-6/Detail?gclid=CjgKEAjwuMmdBRDljdfi2_qQpxkSJADDCRwsb YRGZq7xvFqL2wcRp2NzrPsWFFiG9KZ3Le2s52VNx_D_BwE) (Here's a link to Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-1202F-6-Stainless-Resolution-Specifications/dp/B001LF3CG2/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1404254673&sr=1-2&keywords=fractional+dial+calipers)) I've had it for a bunch of years and it works great. I'm sure the lower cost ones work well, also.

I like a fractional caliper and an analog one. The problem with a digital caliper is what's known as quantization error - the caliper has to show a value so it will show the digital value closest to the real value. On an analog dial, you can see that the measurement is very close to a specific value not not completely there. I like that extra bit of information.

If your primary interest is the fractional values, make sure the caliper you purchase has the fractional values in the outer dial (like the Starrett does). It makes it easier to read than if the fractional values are on the inner part of the dial.

Mike

[Kent A Bathurst]

I have a Starrett 6" fractional dial caliper. (http://store.greatgages.com/servlet/-strse-1588/1202F-6/Detail?gclid=CjgKEAjwuMmdBRDljdfi2_qQpxkSJADDCRwsb YRGZq7xvFqL2wcRp2NzrPsWFFiG9KZ3Le2s52VNx_D_BwE) (Here's a link to Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-1202F-6-Stainless-Resolution-Specifications/dp/B001LF3CG2/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1404254673&sr=1-2&keywords=fractional+dial+calipers)) I've had it for a bunch of years and it works great.

Me too.

The thing I like best is that it measures in "ticks" and those ticks correspond exactly with the "ticks" on my TS scale, my collection of PC 690 scales, etc.

So - "1 and a half ticks below 7/16" gets me dead nuts moving between measuring and setup. Every time. I can count ticks, and not sweat the stupid factor, if you know what I mean.

I also have a great set of Mitutoyo digitals. Can't beat them, either.

But the Starrett Fractional Dial "Ticks" model is my horse.

[Ole Anderson]

The concept of a vernier is old school, I remember reading them 50 years ago on old surveyor's transits while measuring angles. Digital is where its at now, but a good compromise is the dial caliper, no batteries required. Able to read much more accurately than a vernier. I have a cheap dial and a HF digital, the dial get used the most.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Own a couple each of HF digital, and dial calipers. Only way to go, and for the money can't be beat. You can get a copy of decimal to fractions charts from several sources. Many include metrics also. I have one glued on to the case of my dial calipers.

[Steve Baumgartner]

I use both dial and digital for the same reason: I have trouble seeing the scales clearly on vernier calipers whereas they are easy to see on the others. I mainly use a 1/64 calibrated dial, since that is easily precise enough for woodwork. The digital is mostly for more demanding things like machine setup, but also so that I can switch easily between inch and metric as necessary. I have several Festools, and it is easier just to go metric than to constantly try to convert.

I also greatly prefer the classic Starrett layout for rules, for the same reason. When I want to measure 7/8 inch, I don't want to struggle trying to see the difference between 7/8 and 55/64.

Steve

[Richard N Elliott]

I've been using a dial caliper for years and trust it completely. Never could convince my own self to put my faith in one a them digital thangs!

[Dennis Aspö]

I like the digital for reading imperial units, which I sometimes do, and then I want it in thousands. Fractions other than halves or quarters, makes my head hurt. Decimals and base-10 only for me please.

[paul cottingham]

i prefer analog dial calipers. I use mine for everything. I prefer it to the digital one, as its easier to avoid "decimalism" where i start to worry about a few thousands of an inch here and there (or a few hundreds for that matter.) I also find it easier to not have to worry about comparing and converting /128ths /64ths and /32nds. Easier measuring=fewer mistakes, less headaches. Less headaches=more enjoyment.

[Keith Westfall]

I have both a dial (MM & fractions) and a digital read out one. Digital one EATS batteries and as seldom as I use it, I have to always replace the battery.

The dial one works all the time and each time I pick it up. Like many other things in the shop, it benefits from a blast of air now and again. Never had a problem with it jamming up.

[David C. Roseman]

Thanks everyone for your help. I didn't mention it, but I have an electronic caliper that eats batteries, which accounts for my interest in a non-electronic version.

I just pop the battery out between projects, and no longer have a problem with premature drain. Not a solution if I'm using them daily, but in that case I figure I get my $$ worth out of the battery. I find them quicker and easier to read. But these days I tend to do more woodturning than flat work or metal work, and for that I reach for the vernier or the dial calipers.

David

[Cody Kemble]

I prefer dial calipers. I have them in both decimal and fraction. I haven't found that one makes things any easier than the other. I had a digital caliper and still have a digital depth gauge for my router tables and those things eat batteries at an alarming rate. Those little CR2025's aren't cheap either.

[Chris Fournier]

I use dial and digital. Dial is always ready to play. No regrets.

[Mike Jaureguy]

All three types have their place, I think. Digital is great for sizing drills, etc, but of course, how accurate is the number(as mentioned previously)? try converting 3/64ths to decimal on a calculator to two places.... to 4 places.....to 8 places!!! Hence all digital readouts are approximations, to a degree,of the measured quantity(assuming it is being measured accurately in the first place) !! just depends on how accurate you want to read it, and how accurate the objects being measured/used are. For example, try using a digital caliper on a ¼ in drill shaft. Now try it on another brand ¼" shaft. And another. Not all drills are created equal; neither are all calipers, of any style. Dials are easy to read, and .001 accuracy is nice, plus the ability to eyeball the in-betweens. Again, the quality of the unit makes all the difference; and, by the same token, how accurate do you want it to be?? Certain tasks require different accuracies. Frankly, I like to measure the widths of all my 2x4s, before nailing them on my yard fence(chuckle!!). The vernier, although a learning curve is required, not only gives great accuracy (again depending on the quality), but gives the ability to eyeball small differences and trends. I have a junky General vernier in my quick and dirty toolbox. I have a couple of medium quality digitals, and a fairly nice dial one. Which one I use, depends on the need, just like using a tape measure. BTW, a trick to prolong battery life of ALL small batteries being discussed. DO NOT install them with your bare hands- the oils on your fingers cause a small electrical current flow that can cut down battery life by as much as 50%. I use a CLEAN rag/paper towel mildly saturated with alcohol. I first wash my hands with soap and water, dry with a clean towel, wipe the battery completely with alcohol, as well as my 'installing-fingers' with said alcohol saturated towel. That will help tremendously with watches, and other like devices. The digital calipers; most are designed to 'remember' the last setting before "power-off", so that it will show up upon re-powering, Hence the constant 'mini-drain' on the battery. Just my $.02000000000 worth. Love the forum and all you guys.

[Mark Walden]

I have the dial caliper from Igaging, I couldn't live without it. I use more than any other measure tool in my shop, planing, mortise depth , tenon thickness, table saw setting. What I like most about the dial is you see where you are at and where you need to go, for thickness or depth. Plus for old people the dial is easier to read
This is my second Igaging my first one lasted about 7 years and it fell off the bench and chipped a piece out of the bezel it still worked fine until it got so full of sawdust you couldn't read the dial anymore. So I guess that's on me. When I got the first second one the dial and the vernier didn't line up. Returned it back to Woodcraft same place I bought the others, the replacement has been in use for 3 years now works perfect. Blow the sawdust out of the gears once in a while and try to keep it in a safe place. Some guys always put it back in the box but I use mine too much for everything to keep messing with the box but if you treat it with respect it should last a long time. They are about $30.00 from woodcraft.
Mark Walden
Walden's Woodworks

[Rich Engelhardt]

Thanks everyone for your help. I didn't mention it, but I have an electronic caliper that eats batteries, which accounts for my interest in a non-electronic version.I do like David up above says. I store all my digital stuff with the batteries out and pop one in only when I use it.
I have a couple of the Dollar Store button batteries that are going on four years old - where before, I was lucky to get four weeks before the batteries went dead.