Ent Center doors -- Help?

[Mike Steinhilper]

Ok, it's time to build/install the doors on my ent center. I have not done this before. Any suggestions for the simplest way to build the doors? My plan now is to build the frame with pocket holes, rabbet the back, and insert a 1/4" panel. But, I've heard the 1/4" panel is not a good way to go. I would like raised panel doors, but I havent' made them before and don't want to invest a lot of money in the wood and end up with scrap. These doors will be visible from the back quite often if that is helpful. Hope everybody has a great 4th!

[Michael Gabbay]

If you are gong to use a flat panel I'd go with making the frame with a 1/4" groove/dado along the edge like a traditional raised panel door. Then use 1/2" ply and do a 1/4" backcut so that the lip of the panel is 1/4" and sits inside the frame.

1/4" material will probably be too flimsy and warp.

Also use spaceballs or foam rope in the groove to keep the panel from rattling around.

Finally, I have not used a pocket hole for door frames. For large doors like what you are talking about I would go with a mortise and tenon joint. I also put wood dowels in the M&T to keep them nice and tight.

my 2 cents...

Mike

[Jim W. White]

Mike,

This is a part of the project that requires some additional time and effort. It will be highly visable and requires the extra attention.

Taking shortcuts on the doors is like.... buying a really cool looking sports car but then putting nasty looking rims off a YUGO and some re-treads on fit for tires. People are not going to see the car ..they will see the wheels. :rolleyes:

The center panel should not be made out of 1/4 ply if it's going to be seen from both sides UNLESS your going to double it up so there would be a good side facing each way. Gluing up hardwood would be best. Floating panels work best. The panel is places in a centered groove as opposed to simply rabbeting out a groove in the back (as you had referred to in your initial post)

The frames could be put together with pocket holes, but it would not be very appealling visually. A really "low difficulty" solution which is much more attractive and very strong would be to use a half-lap construction (slightly more complicated but also very practical would be a bridal joint). You could probably find some very helpful technique articles at your local library; none of which would require any fancy tooling past the standard table saw.

I'm trying to encourage you to take some chances and spend a little extra time (and possibly money) on the door construction. Remember, NONE of us have learned any skills in the woodshop without creating some scrap lumber.:o

..Jim in Idaho

[Eddie Valenzuela]

I use a stile and rail set up and if you want to save money and time use 1/4" plywood with two good sides for a panel.

You will need a router table for the stile and router bits.

To build raised panel doors you need to glue up boards for the panel which you will need to joint the edges so that the glue up will not be visible. and have atleast a 3 1/2 hp router under table to raise the panels. It takes me three passes. My raised panel bit also has back cutter so that when your done your panel fits right in the groove of the stile and rail.

Simple formula for doors:

Stiles and rails width = 2 3/8" (if your stile and rail bit tounge is 3/8)

Stiles Lenght = Height of door

Rails Length = width of door minus 4"

Panel = Door width minus 4 1/8"
Door height minus 4 1/8"

Hope this helps