Going to pick up a used ULS M300 laser engraver.....What to look for?

[Ken Westbrook]

Hello. I have found a lot of great useful information here. Thanks to all for that.

I am about to go see and purchase a used Universal M300 engraver. I would like to know what questions to ask, and what maintenance I might need to do after the purchase? I wanted to purchase a used machine to see if engraving is right for us before we purchase a new, larger engraver. This will be used for gift and promotional items we want to add to an existing specific focused business.

Here is the deal: $6550 for the M300 (Built March 2005, serial# 12196), 35 watt, with rotary tool, honeycomb table, HP Desktop computer with monitor, CorelDraw Suite X6, blower, books and manuals.

Thank you in advance for any comments or suggestions.
Ken Westbrook

[Scott Shepherd]

Find out when the belts, bearings, and pulleys were last replaced. If they need replacing, it's about $500 for the kit.

Check the lens very good, make sure it's not scratched. If it's running, make sure it engraves small details, like 4-5 pt. fonts nice and sharp in all 4 corners of the table.

Those machines are built like a tank and known in the industry for being a real workhorse of a machine.

[Gary Hair]

It's a 9 year old machine, has the tube been replaced? How many times? If not then you should plan on that expense and have the funds ready to pay for it. It's not if a tube will go but when.

[Mike Null]

Assuming it's in good working order that's a good deal. Maintenance is a breeze and the others have mentioned parts which will, at some point, need replacing.

You also get free telephone/email tech support from ULS.

BTW, glad to have you join us on SMC.

[Brian R Cain]

The most important thing apart from checking out the general condition of the machine is to look at the date the laser tube was built. If it's the same age as the machine, you could find it will need recharging before long and cost you another $1,200 or more. If it is that old, use this as a bargaining chip to bring the cost down. I wouldn't like to comment about the asking price, others probably know what it's worth better than I do.

Make sure you see it working and check the quality of the engraving. There is nothing mechanical on the machine that can't be replaced easily enough and the cost isn't likely to kill you, and the good news is that the majority of these parts are identical to those used on the current ULS range so you won't have to worry about availability.

One thing I would look out for is the condition of the anodising on the guideways of the X-arm. It's very rare and I know of only one instance, but if it's pitted or ground away, you'll never get the quality of engraving the machine is capable of. There are two materials, anodised aluminium and glass where it's recommended extra cleaning is required as particles of these are abrasive. In the instance I encountered this problem, the guy had been engraving lots of anodised aluminium and to be frank, I doubt he'd cleaned the machine once from the day he bought it. Anodising is aluminium oxide, the same stuff they make grinding wheels from so it wasn't that surprising he'd ground the track down.

Most people look after their machines though. Some try a little to hard with this by oiling the guideways. All this does is attract debris leading to greater wear, something that isn't intuitive.

Take the carriage and slide it slowly along the X-arm, feeling for any changes in the smoothness it runs. Do this a number of times. It's possible to find motor or idler bearings to develop occasional tight spots as though they have a bit of grit in them. How it gets in is anyone's guess as the bearings are sealed, but it does happen.

If the machine has air assist, it uses a different arrangement to newer ULS machines and has a belt running between two idlers to carry the air hose. Again this is something else that can cause binding. None of these are biggies and the only reason I mention this is to help identify to you and other with this machine where to look if you feel something binding. You can disconnect the air hose from the carriage and test each part separately.

Cast your eyes around for missing screws. They all had a reason for being there when the machine was designed.

Other than that, you have to assess the machine on the same basis you would if you looking at a used car. As Scott says, they are good, reliable machines and I've never known one encounter a problem that couldn't be fixed quickly and inexpensively. Good luck.

[Dan Hintz]

One thing I would look out for is the condition of the anodising on the guideways of the X-arm. It's very rare and I know of only one instance, but if it's pitted or ground away, you'll never get the quality of engraving the machine is capable of. There are two materials, anodised aluminium and glass where it's recommended extra cleaning is required as particles of these are abrasive. In the instance I encountered this problem, the guy had been engraving lots of anodised aluminium and to be frank, I doubt he'd cleaned the machine once from the day he bought it. Anodising is aluminium oxide, the same stuff they make grinding wheels from so it wasn't that surprising he'd ground the track down.

This makes no sense (at least as pertain anodized aluminum)... lasering AA causes no particulate matter to speak of. You're not removing the aluminum when you laser (if you are, you are WAYYYYY too hot).

[Brian R Cain]

This makes no sense (at least as pertain anodized aluminum)... lasering AA causes no particulate matter to speak of. You're not removing the aluminum when you laser (if you are, you are WAYYYYY too hot).

I'm happy to bow to your superior knowledge in this, Dan. I know you're no fool.

My advice comes from both from the ULS manual and a conversation with the Technical Director of ULS at the time I first encountered this customer who was on a visit to the UK and keen to resolve issues inherited from a previous dealer. All I ever got from this customer was an ear-bashing over the extortionate cost that dealer had given him for a replacement X-arm and the fact that ULS specifically exclude this from their warranty.

[Robert Walters]

Turn on the machine, let it be powered on for 20+ minutes, then turn it off at the switch on the machine.

Wait 5-10 seconds, then turn on the power switch on the machine again.

The LCD should say "Initializing" on the first line, followed by a bunch of blocks on the second line.
Then once done, it'll say "Ready".

Sometimes it doesn't want to initialize properly and you'll get two lines of solid bars.

Easy fix: remove and clean the ram.
Worse case: Defective controller board, I was told $250 flat rate to send in, repair, and return within a week.

If the door doesn't stay up on it's own, the gas spring cartridges need to be replaced.
I found a 3rd party replacement (years ago) for ~$40 (maybe less) for a pair shipped - easy fix.

To replace a 30W (I know yours is 35W) it's a little under $1200 including shipping both ways.
If needed, you might go thru a local rep to save you some headaches and might get a little better pricing.
Plus many reps have power meters that can check what your laser is putting out.

To go from a 30W to a 45W (if available) is around $3750 plus shipping.
To go from a 30W to a 50W (if available) is around $3780 plus shipping.
Comes with a one year warranty, and the warranty follows the cartridge (tube), not the owner.

Again what Dan said, check that lens/mirrors for ANY defects, even if it's a dirt smudge.


You can email ULS (support AT ulsinc.com) with the SN of the unit and they will lookup what/if any service work/parts have been done on it that they are aware of. They are used to people purchasing used lasers.

That might give you an indication of how much it's been thru in it's lifetime.


If you buy it and don't like it, I'll give ya 50% of what you paid for it ;)

[Ken Westbrook]

Thanks everyone for the comments. The machine looks and works great. I brought it home today. I'm excited to get started.

[Jesse Skellington]

Any updates with your ULS M-300 30W? :-)

[Steve Utick]

Any updates with your ULS M-300 30W? :-)

Looks like Ken hasn't logged in here since Feb of 2015, so not likely to get any answers....