Which plane to buy next

[Wayne Babkirk]

Hello All,

I am just getting into woodworking so it has been easy to decide on a hybrid approach as I really don't own any major machinery yet. I am thinking about getting a good bandsaw for dimensioning and skipping the table saw entirely. My question revolves around what would give me best value as their is so many tools to buy when getting started. I have LV's BU Jointer and Jack with 25 and 50 degree irons. So far I love the both of them but the Jack is a bit unwieldy for small work. I am deciding between a block plane or the BU Smoother. The smoother comes with the 38 degree iron so would fill a gap I have for irons right now. But is there anything it can do better than the Jack as far as final finishing? Granted it might be more comfortable but if I can get by for a while with the Jack doing smoothing duty then I think the block plane might be more handy. What do you guys think? And would LV's low angle block plane be the one to get?

thanks for the help, much appreciated!

[john zulu]

LV BU Jointer and LAJ? Almost there :) I would say a smoother or block plane. My first plane was a block plane. Still own it.
Back to your question.... What do you want to do next? Is it to complement your current planes or some work that is needed?

To complete the set get the LV BU Smoother. If small work the LV Low Angle Block plane with all the blade configuration with tote and knob. There are many other planes to get after this BUT it depends on your work.

[Joe Close]

I believe the block plane was my first purchase. It gets used all the time. Chamfering, end grain, quick this and that. I have been surprised how often I reach for it.

[Jim Koepke]

Howdy Wayne,

Welcome to the Creek. You haven't listed your location in your profile. You may live near another member who would be willing to have you over for a test drive of the different possibilities.

Other than that it really depends on the work you want to do and how you want to do it.

Some folks have come to like the LV block planes with the optional grips.

That is about all from me unless you live in the Portland, OR area and want to get together so you can get a feel for the differences in planes. I do not have any LV planes, but the sizes should be about the same.

jtk

[Shawn Pixley]

I'd lobby for a block plane. I find these the most indespensable of tools. Find one that suits your hand. You"ll find yourself using it all the time.

[Curt Putnam]

I have all 3 BU planes that take the same blade. The BU smoother is a relatively large smoother (I believe it's closer to a 4 1/2.) It's a wonderful smoother but it won't do block plane duty very easily or, in some case, at all. If you want to buy only one plane that will serve both purposes then you have basically two choices: the LA block and the # 3 sized smoother. I would get the smoother if your needs tend more to the smoothing with some block work - or the block if your needs tend to block work with some smoothing. I have those two planes too. That little smoother sure is sweet and joy to use. If you go the block route I would get, in addition to all the totes & knobs, 1 PM-V11 blade ground at 25° and a couple O1 blades that would be ground at 38° and 55° for smoothing duties.

IMO & YMMV

[Charles Bjorgen]

I own both the LV bevel up jointer and jack planes but opted for the smaller bevel up smoother ( no. 3) and was never sorry. I also find the jack a bit heavy for certain jobs and find the small smoother a joy to use. While the LV block plane is excellent, you might find a used Stanley 60 1/2 or 65 at 1/3rd the price that would suit you needs.

[Prashun Patel]

There's no right answer. Planes fit each person's style differently.
I use both the small BU jointer and the apron plane from Veritas. They do different things.
Some people never need a block plane. Others use them like a 6th finger.

If you are truly a hybrid guy, then you may prefer to use a ROS to do final sanding, which reduces the need for a smoother.

You won't know which is more useful to you until you discover your style.

Here's the good news: The BU smoother and apron plane are highly re-sellable. So, you really cannot go too wrong by experimenting.

Here's my vote: get the BU smoother (the large one; it's more popular than the small one and hence will sell easier). The trio you will have will be very powerful and since you seem to be enjoying the 1st two, I suspect you'll similarly like the smoother.

Try out some used la blocks to determine whether you need one and which suits you. Some people like a 60 1/2 sized one, some (like me) like the smaller 102-ish types.

[john zulu]

The LN 102 is different compared to low angle block planes. LN 102 does not have the mass nor the dimension for heavy push. It is more for trimming. After using 102, it is one of my go to planes for
tweaking.

Here is the list I am using:

LN 102 for tweaking or trimming.
My favourite is the Stanley #4. For most task EXCEPT hard wood.
LV LAJ for dimensioning, flattening. Critical for hardwood due to mass and better iron from LV.
LV Smoother #4 for smoothing which my #4 can equally do but I usually use this for smoothing. Better iron compared to Stanley
Scrub plane to hog off wood fast!
Block plane for small wood dimension.

The list goes on...... So it depends.

Patel is right on ROS. You can use that for final sanding. More versatile but use a lot of sandpaper. If it was solid wood I would go with #4 or scrapers.

[Judson Green]

I don't use a block plane very much, hardy at all, but do like the LN 102.

[paul cottingham]

I use my BUJ a lot. I use my no. 4 smoother a lot, more than my BUS, but that is a recent development. I have a low angle block plane, but strangely, don't use it that much. I believe I am an anomaly, so I don't think you can go wrong with any of those three planes. In fact, add a plow and a rabbet plane and you are set. Anything more than that is just addiction! :-)

Don't forget to invest in sharpening.

Oh, all my planes are Lee Valley or vintage. If I were to buy a block plane again, I think I would buy a Lie-Nielsen.

[Zach Dillinger]

I don't use a block plane very much, hardy at all, but do like the LN 102.

+1 to Mr. Green.

[Dale Murray]

I was going to say 'All of them', but I see you guys are much more helpful than I am.

[Brian Holcombe]

I vote for the smoother. I have a bevel down smoother that probably gets more use than any other plane in the shop. It's usually tuned for a moderate cut and will get a board to near finish quickly.

Even if you use a ROS to do a final polish, you'll find that a smoothing plane gets you to the point where your ROS is no longer doing heavy lifting and your final product will improve.

[Paul McGaha]

I'd vote for a smoother too. Probably a #4.

If you're really liking the bevel up planes though maybe a bevel up smoother.

PHM

[Jim Matthews]

My question would be directed to the steps you follow in preparing a board.

What do you find the two planes can not do easily?

The BUJ was the subject of a Finewoodworking article that showed multiple blades
being ground to different angles, for different procedures.

I recommend Jim Tolpin's "The New Traditional Woodworker" to further your
inquiry into tools to fit the way you make things.

The recommended finishing step is often some combination of cabinet or card scraper
followed by light sanding to show any divots, tear out or low spots.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,310&p=46266

If you haven't taken any instruction yet, it might be a good time to get a handle on what you have
before getting more tools.

Concerning block planes, I would look for something the size of a traditional Stanley #3
before getting a really small block plane.

[Wayne Babkirk]

All, thank you for the great advice. I think I misused the term hybrid. MOst likely the only large machine I am going to buy is the bandsaw. I wanted to get into this hobby to replace the satisfaction I used to get from working with telecom equipment in the field compared to now sitting behind a desk exclusively. I miss the sense of a finished product. I am setting up my shop in my basement and at least for the moment don't plan on using any power tools down there besides the drill press. Any sanding I do will be done in my garage but really I hope it won't be more than a light pass with a small square of sandpaper to get it ready for finishing.. I really got inspired to get into this hobby by seeing some of Paul Sellers videos. I don't care too much about production speed (good thing as I am pretty &%$# slow so far, lol).

Up till now I have been doing everything by hand with the exception of the long rip cuts which a coworker has helped me out with. I'm not so dedicated to turn my nose up at a table saw when I have a bunch of 8/4 to rip! Other than that it's the sense of craftsmanship I am really enjoying.

Probably like most, I want to make some nice furniture for the house as far as projects go. I hadn't seen the small smoother somehow in my LV browsing. That looks like a nice compromise. The things I have had some difficulty with are more in the sheer size of the LA Jack rather than its ultimate capability. It can do the job it's just awkward. I ended up with two 25 degree irons so I am making one with more of a camber to be able to do some mild scrub duty.

I got a cabinet scraper recently and it was a revelation how it could plane where even my 50 degree iron was having issues. When making my workbench I had a lot of maple that just could NOT be planed. Contrasting grain running all directions. I thought it was my technique at first, especially watching multiple videos and seeing nothing but smooth continuous shavings from the posters.

I live near Calgary so LV is very convenient. Not the cheapest tools but over my life I have been sorry for buying cheap tools a number of times but never for buying quality (unless my wife happens to find out the ACTUAL cost of some of these things that is...)

thanks again,

Wayne

[Brian Holcombe]

Maple prefers to be difficult, out of the white woods it's my least favorite to work with. Unfortunately I like the look of it, so it gets put to use quite often. I certainly prefer working with white ash or quarter sawn white oak over maple.

The issue you are having is where a smoother with a chip breaker is going to come in handy. I have a bevel up jack, and I like it mostly because it has the ability to accept blades which can sheer end grain or be used to remove material quickly with a cambered blade. It doesn't do well as a smoother, at least in my experience.

[Judson Green]

Used maple all the time when I was a electronic woodworker, but now it kicks my butt.

[Terry Beadle]

Some thing to consider.... buy a Hock thick blade and build a Krenov style small plane. Maybe about 5 ~ 6 inches long. That would be cheaper than either the LN or LV block planes but better than the Stanley.

It's not hard to make a Krenov style plane and you can get creative on the selection of woods to use. I made one out of some rock (hard) maple with a sole from lignum vie tea. That little plane has been in my shop for over a decade and is kept sharp and ready right on my bench. Very handy and lighter than an equivalent steel/cast Iron plane.

There are books and youtube videos on making such a plane.

Best of all, you'll enjoy using some thing you made, tuned up, and invested your skills in...IMO.

Enjoy the shavings.