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View Full Version : Best table saw blade for ripping treated lumber?



Brent Romero
06-13-2014, 10:36 AM
I am wondering if anyone has suggestions on the best blade to rip 2x treated lumber.

Thanks

Bill White
06-13-2014, 10:50 AM
Ripping on/with what type saw?
Bill

David Kumm
06-13-2014, 11:02 AM
Do you own a bandsaw? Dave

Peter Quinn
06-13-2014, 11:09 AM
Yours.... Because your not doing it on mine! Seriously though, I use a wet lumber Freud Diablo on a skill saw to rip treated, I don't like all that chemical hitting my face when ripping on a TS, I don't like it on the cast iron, I don't like the tension trapped in treated syp being released on a tS, and I generally try to keep the ripping of pressure treated to a minimum by designing around prepared sizes when possible. Splitting treated lumber leaves the untreated core exposed, and this sort of defeats the point of using treated pine anyway.

Prashun Patel
06-13-2014, 11:16 AM
I prefer to bandsaw and then joint 2x4 lumber if I have to use it.

Jerry Olexa
06-13-2014, 11:22 AM
If your TS is on wheels, take it outside to cut/rip.....

Brent Romero
06-13-2014, 11:23 AM
I have an old Delta contractor saw.

Brent Romero
06-13-2014, 11:25 AM
I actually need to rip several 2x4x8s and using a skil saw might prove to be a long process. I have been doing it outside...but is is a pain and I know I am probably straining my saw.

scott spencer
06-13-2014, 11:55 AM
I sure wouldn't use one of my more expensive blades on PT. If the cut quality doesn't matter, maybe one of those 24T construction grade Oldhams from HD would work ok.....or you could try a 7-1/4" circ saw blade on your TS - the Diablos are ~ $10. It's worth noting that you probably won't be able to use your stock splitter or riving knife due to the kerf width of most 7-1/4" blades though...

scott vroom
06-13-2014, 12:48 PM
I've ripped a lot of PT on my table saw...it's typically soft and easy on the blade and I've never noticed any type of damage to the TS components. If you're worried about the blade, throw on a cheap-o, and in any case wear a dust mask to avoid inhaling the toxic dust. I should add that my table saw is positioned adjacent to a wall mounted 20" high velocity exterior vented exaust fan....I always run it when cutting on any of my power tools, with a vent on the opposite wall providing rapid air movement through my shop. 5 mins after making the cut the shop air is cleared.

Ole Anderson
06-13-2014, 2:10 PM
Just be sure to wipe your table down after cutting wet PT wood. I didn't and had some rust to deal with. I don't see the issue with using a good 24T ripping blade on PT. It is not full of dirt or nails and the chemicals aren't going to dull your carbide any more than regular wood, IMHO.

Loren Woirhaye
06-13-2014, 2:25 PM
Use a low tooth count blade with big gullets and get through it fast. They may not be easy to fine anymore, but a standard steel rip blade may be a good choice. Such a blade can be resharpened with a file and it does not make as wide a kerf as a carbide tipped blade. There is usually some set to the teeth which helps with wet wood.

That said, carbide is a real tough material and considering how inexpensive carbide saw blades have become...

Peter Kelly
06-13-2014, 3:53 PM
Just make sure to use a splitter and a particle mask. PT wood is unpredictable when ripping. ACQ dust is pretty unpleasant too.

Lee Schierer
06-13-2014, 4:42 PM
In answer to your question I use a 24 tooth Freud LU87R010 10-Inch 24-Tooth FTG Thin Kerf Ripping Saw Blade. It will walk right through treated lumber wet or dry. If possible stack and sticker your boards for 3-4 days after bringing them home to let them dry out. The quality of the cut will improve if you do.

Kyle Iwamoto
06-13-2014, 4:46 PM
I have to agree with buying PT lumber the correct size and not ripping it, since the non treated parts get exposed. Why buy PT lumber if you rip it? Avoid all the other issues. Rust, dust, health. Just my $0.02.

Dave Zellers
06-14-2014, 11:41 PM
Why buy PT lumber if you rip it?

Of course cutting it to length exposes the same issue.

Nike Nihiser
06-15-2014, 9:49 PM
I don't think pressure treated lumber has an "untreated core". That's why it's pressure treated to force the liquid preservative into the wood. In addition, if the core was untreated wouldn't there be even more of a problem with the ends decaying when you had to saw one to fit a specific length? I've never had a problem with decay from crosscutting or ripping treated lumber (have infrequently ripped any, however.)

Kyle Iwamoto
06-16-2014, 9:00 PM
Of course cutting it to length exposes the same issue.

LOL true, but you have to cut to dimension, and you should end treat. Then you are protected.

Brent Romero
07-04-2014, 9:45 PM
Thank you sir....works like a charm.

Tom Howarth
07-07-2014, 12:31 PM
Just be sure to wipe your table down after cutting wet PT wood. I didn't and had some rust to deal with. I don't see the issue with using a good 24T ripping blade on PT. It is not full of dirt or nails and the chemicals aren't going to dull your carbide any more than regular wood, IMHO.

I was cutting some small pieces and left the scraps on my bandsaw for a few hours. When I was cleaning up there were rusty shapes of the scraps on the table top. Nasty stuff...

scott vroom
07-07-2014, 12:59 PM
I was cutting some small pieces and left the scraps on my bandsaw for a few hours. When I was cleaning up there were rusty shapes of the scraps on the table top. Nasty stuff...

Fresh pressure treated wood is typically very green and very wet...I've had water appear when driving 16D framing nails. Most likely the moisture in the wood caused the rust, not the "nasties". If rust is a concern, then one could purchase KD PT (commoly used for decking). Another benefit of KD is that it's less likely to move when ripping.