Picture frame makers, what do you use for clamping

[Bill Huber]

I have been ask to make a few picture frames, nothing really fancy just basic frames.

I made a clamping jig like you find on the net with the 4 arms and it pulls the parts together. I am not real happy with it, it works but not as good as I think it should. The corners still need to be lined up and that is kind of hard.

I have used band clamps and they work if the frame has a nice square edge to pull against but if not they are really hard to work with.

Is there a better clamp for gluing up pictures frames?

I have looked at the ones on Woodcraft and Rockler, the ones that use rods, and they look better but I am not sure.

[steven taggart]

I use blue masking tape across the corners. It works for me. But I don't glue up until I have a great fit.

[Matt Day]

I use the veritas one with the threaded rod. Works well.

[johnny means]

Many pros use a corrugated fastener that pulls the joints together.

[Bill Huber]

I use blue masking tape across the corners. It works for me. But I don't glue up until I have a great fit.

I am getting a good fit, I made a 45° sled and it works really well. I have not tried the tape, I do use it on small boxes, I will have to give it a try.

[Myk Rian]

I use the veritas one with the threaded rod. Works well.
I found a set of those at a garage sale. They work great.

[Bill Huber]

I use the veritas one with the threaded rod. Works well.

Do the 90° parts meet or do they have a hole in them. The problem I am having, is the one I made has a hole at the 90 and one side will go into it and then it is hard to get it pulled back out and lined up with the point.

After I get all the corners lined up then the clamp pulls things together, it is just getting the point to line up.

[Matt Day]

The corner pieces of the clamp do not have a hole in them or anything. Any kind of relief would allow the joint to move and would give you a parallelogram instead of a rectangle, right? I see why you'd want one to avoid crushing the point of the miters though, but I haven't had issues with that.
I've probably made 25 picture frames with it over the years, and a fee more coming up soon.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I've done more than a hundred frames of all sizes using the Lee Valley rod sets, and I've never had an out of square frame. If you need longer lengths, the fittings take 1/4 x 20 threaded rod.

[Chuck Darney]

I have a couple of the Merle Band Clamps from MLCS and I think they work great.Thery adjust evenly and you're not limited to fours corners. I use them on boxes as well.

...Chuck

[Jim Tobias]

Bill,
I know you said you have used strap clamps, but had to ask if you have used this one.
I had used the Bessey strap clamps for years but after trying out these by Wolfcraft, there is no comparison. One handed use and adjustments is very easy. Also clamps square every time for me.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JCLNQ4/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Jim

[Richard Kee]

I use an older MaxiClamp setup distributed by ShopSmith in the 1980's. The closest new item that I've seen that is similar is sold by Lee Valley. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=31162&cat=1,43293,31162

Richard

[Kevin Jenness]

If you can accept a divot at each corner the size of a 6d finish nail, the Collins spring clamps work very well. Another approach involves temporarily gluing clamping ears at the corners with a paper/glue joint or using ears glued to a flange and clamped to the corners. Once the ears are secured to the frame parts, each joint can be clamped together with pressure at 90 degrees to the joint line. You don't have to line up all the points at once.

[Eric Shapin]

Bill,

First- I've read many of your posts as I lurk on Sawmill Creek and, as your responses have helped me on numerous instances, I appreciate the opportunity to try to assist you.

I glue and manually hold the corners together (TiteBond II) for a few minutes and then release; works perfectly. I use the Lee Valley-type threaded rods (I purchased Woodcraft's equivalent) for the last 2 corners; the advantage of gluing the fist 2 corners sequentially is not having to align all four simultaneously.

I had wanted to post a couple of pics of my frames, but, for some reason, the uploads fail. Here are a couple of links instead.

http: //lumberjocks.com/projects/89693
http: //lumberjocks.com/projects/89028

Good luck,

Eric

[Von Bickley]

Bill,
This is what I use and I bought some extra 1/4-20 threaded rod to use with mine.

http://www.rockler.com/quick-release-corner-framing-clamp-kit

[Lee Schierer]

Bill, I use a older version of a clamp that work like this one 291027 It is one that my father acquired many years ago and the manufacturer wasn't proud enough of their product to put their name on it.

A couple of hints to get good joints, that you may already know:

1. Make sure opposite sides are exactly the same length. You can stand them up on a flat surface and visually inspect that the tips of the 45 are exactly even.
2. The 45 degree miter is like gluing end grain so coat both sides of the joint with glue as most woods will suck it right up.
3. Assemble your parts dry first to make sure the joints are going to close up. Any bow or twist in your pieces will mess up a joint.

[Bill Huber]

Bill,
I know you said you have used strap clamps, but had to ask if you have used this one.
I had used the Bessey strap clamps for years but after trying out these by Wolfcraft, there is no comparison. One handed use and adjustments is very easy. Also clamps square every time for me.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JCLNQ4/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Jim

Those are the ones, I really like them for other things.

[Chris Padilla]

2. The 45 degree miter is like gluing end grain so coat both sides of the joint with glue as most woods will suck it right up.

This where I like to use a biscuit or a Domino or spline or what-have-you to reinforce the joint.

[Bill Huber]

Thanks all, I guess Lee Valley will be getting an order.
My joints are all really good, it is just the glue up that has given me the problem.
I will order the clamp system from LV and see how it goes.

Again thanks for the help.

[Dan Wiese]

Bill, I believe the Lee Valley set is a slight step up from the Rockler clamp set. Both work better on smaller frames. I build a lot of frames for my wife's oil / acrylic canvas paintings but they are usually in the sizes ranging from 24x24 up to 36x48. For those sizes, the best I have found is the Wolfcraft band clamp also sold by Menards under their workforce brand (the same ones mentioned by Jim earlier). I always use a domino on each miter and two on the larger frames. Really helps to keep them aligned during glue up.

Someone in the forum here posted a you tube video on a professional Felder slider and toward the end of the hour long video they showed a very unique miter clamp set. You probably have to buy it in Austria but it was a straight screw type horizontal rod about 6-8 inches long that fit into a horizontal short rod on each end. Those fit into holes you drilled into the back of the frame on each side of the miter and then you somehow tightened the rod from the center to snug up each miter. Very simple but unique clamp that I had never seen before watching the video.

Hope per you enjoy the set from Lee Valley.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

If you do not need a lot of pressure, you may be able to use magnets on a piece of sheet steel to block things in place.

[Lee Schierer]

This where I like to use a biscuit or a Domino or spline or what-have-you to reinforce the joint.

Actually, I find it easier and just as strong to coat both sides with glue.

[Stan Calow]

Bill I use the lee Valley rod thing too. One tip is I put wing nuts on the end of each rod to keep the knurly knobs from sliding off and disappearing.

[Bill Huber]

Bill I use the lee Valley rod thing too. One tip is I put wing nuts on the end of each rod to keep the knurly knobs from sliding off and disappearing.

Thanks, I will remember that one when it gets here.

[Paul Kasman]

I clamp frame pieces to a worktop, which can be as simple as a piece of plywood on top of a couple of saw horses. I put packing tape on the plywood where the joints will squeeze out glue. You can also cut a square the size of the interior of the frame and then clamp things down and together as needed around this piece. This not only clamps the miter, but also keeps the frame from "rolling" under the force of the clamps. Splines or slip joints also can help avoid the rolling, strengthen the joint, and aid in alignment.

Frames are difficult. Mitres are difficult. It is not an easy glue up. Sometimes people think they should be easy and they become frustrated when they find that they are actually quite difficult.

Good luck.

[Dan Rude]

Bill, check out this clamp http://miterclamp.com/ It looks like it could be used for what you want. I always have trouble with molding 45's and am thinking about it. Dan

[Mark W Pugh]

I clamp frame pieces to a worktop, which can be as simple as a piece of plywood on top of a couple of saw horses. I put packing tape on the plywood where the joints will squeeze out glue. You can also cut a square the size of the interior of the frame and then clamp things down and together as needed around this piece. This not only clamps the miter, but also keeps the frame from "rolling" under the force of the clamps. Splines or slip joints also can help avoid the rolling, strengthen the joint, and aid in alignment.

Frames are difficult. Mitres are difficult. It is not an easy glue up. Sometimes people think they should be easy and they become frustrated when they find that they are actually quite difficult.

Good luck.

I'm trying to figure out how to glue up a 3" mitred picture frame. This sounds like a great technique without having to buy anything else. Question, is glue on the end grains enough to hold the joint??? Any other techniques?

Thanks

[Roy Harding]

Bill I use the lee Valley rod thing too. One tip is I put wing nuts on the end of each rod to keep the knurly knobs from sliding off and disappearing.

Now you tell me.

I have one, used it once, was very happy - and then lost one of the knobs.

[Mike Null]

I have the threaded rods and the only thing I don't like is how slow the set up is.

[Harvey Miller]

I'm trying to figure out how to glue up a 3" mitred picture frame. This sounds like a great technique without having to buy anything else. Question, is glue on the end grains enough to hold the joint??? Any other techniques?

Thanks

I haven't done picture frames, but I've done a few window casings by gluing them up on a MFT/3 table. I've used a biscuit to hold them with good luck (so far I've resisted buying a domino).

[roger wiegand]

I put a spline in the corners then tack it with a couple of 23 ga pins from the back side during glue-up-- no clamps required. I've also put them together with hot hide glue, again, no clamps needed. Corners that are just mitered and glued without reinforcement usually seem to fail pretty quickly, the wood movement opens them right up.

[Bill Huber]

I have done about 6 frames now and using the Lee Valley clamps have worked out very well. I really like the nuts on the clamps, you can just slide them up and then lock them in place.

I do coat each part with glue, let is set a minute and then put a scond coat on, have not had one come apart yet. This lets the glue soak into the wood better I think.

I also took a 2' x 4' x 3/4" MDF board, put finish on it and then waxed it really good and that is what I use to do my glue ups on. Any squeeze out just pops right off and I have a good flat surface to work on.

[Tom Howarth]

I use these...
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Corner-Miter-Clamp-4-1-4-/D3263

[Bill Huber]

I use these...
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Corner-Miter-Clamp-4-1-4-/D3263

I had a set just about like those but the problem I had was they did not pull the joint together.

[Ken Frohnert]

I put a 4'x4' threaded rod set (much like the Lee Valley) from Woodworkers Supply on my x-mas list - I think it is a bit cheaper since it will do 4x4 from the get go at $29. They also sell extra corners and nuts so if you want 2'x2' size you can get two clamps out of one set. I cannot speak to quality since I don't have it yet. But it looks solid.

[Mark W Pugh]

I have done about 6 frames now and using the Lee Valley clamps have worked out very well. I really like the nuts on the clamps, you can just slide them up and then lock them in place.

I do coat each part with glue, let is set a minute and then put a scond coat on, have not had one come apart yet. This lets the glue soak into the wood better I think.



I just used this (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43293,31162&p=31162) for a 31" x 25" frame. I would say it's the "cat's meow" for me. Everything aligned up perfectly. I did purchase additional 1/4 x 20 all thread rod for the large frame. I would highly recommend.

[Phillip Gregory]

I use a strap clamp with four plastic corners. It works well if you have your miters cut perfectly, not so well if you're angled a little bit off of vertical as the pieces will slide vertically in relation to one another when you tighten it up. If you use a miter sled that is dead on, it's the way to go.

[Janis Stipins]

One more vote here for the Lee Valley picture frame clamps. I'd never made frames before, and just made ten of them for Christmas presents... used a miter shooting board and the Lee Valley clamps, and they all came out very square and tight. (Smallish frames in this case, so no splines or V-nails, just glue.)

-JS3