Push Stick question

[Byron Trantham]

I saw a push stick from Rockler made from 1/8" aluminum. Anyone have any feelings on using an aluminum push stick next to a TS blade? Rockler claims it won't hurt a blade. The idea seems great but I wanted some opinions before I get one.

Thanks

[Lee Schierer]

Personally I don't think I would buy a push stick when they are so easy to make. With that said, aluminum can be cut with carbide saw blasdes. We do it here at work all the time. I don't think the metal cutting tooth profile is the same as the profile on a wood blade and the hook angle is usually different too.

If you were to accidently hit an aluminum push stick, I don't think any great harm would occur to the blade.

[Byron Trantham]

Thanks Lee. I think that is just what I am going to do.

[PeterTorresani]

Although your blade is most likely safe from damage, I don't think it is hazard free. The aluminum filings are much more dangerous than wood sawdust. I also would not want to be around if an aluminum push stick were dropped on a blade, bumped into a blade etc. It's much less forgiving than wood.

Most of all, I don't see the benefit of aluminum over wood. If it's stiffness to thickness ratio, then build a wood one 1/2" thick with the lowest 1" cut down to 1/8" thick.

[Bill Howatt]

I bought a Sears plastic one once and I trace its shape to make my "working copies". I wondered what an adavantage of an 1/8 aluminum might be and I think I would find it handy once in a while.

Sometimes I need to rip some narrow stock and the 1/8 aluminum one would fit between my fence and the blade guard which I always use unless physically impossible.

Bill

[Von Bickley]

Byron,

I did like Bill and used a plastic push stick for a pattern. I made mine from some 1/4" poplar I had laying around. They also make neat gifts for your woodworking buddies.
I don't care how soft aluminum is, I still don't want any metal coming in contact with my saw blade.

[Rick Potter]

If you decide to make one yourself, I suggest you use plywood, rather than solid wood. There will be no problems with a short grain situation that way.

I use shop grade oak 3/4" ply for the big ones, 1/4" baltic birch for the narrow ones. Must have a dozen for various machines/uses.

Use a 1/4" roundover bit to ease the edges of the handle for comfort.

Rick Potter

[Phil Phelps]

...but stings when it hits your fingers. I saw aluminum frequently on the TS and see no problem with my blade. But not for a push stick. Lee has the correct notion.

[Bob Janka]

You might try a different approach like this:

When ripping narrow pieces, cut a notch in a large block of 2 by. For instance, a 6" long piece of 2x4 standing on edge. The back 1" of the push block is the full width (3 1/2" these days, right? ;-). The front portion of the push block is 1/8" to 1/4" narrower than the full width (3 3/8" to 3 1/4").

Place the push block on the workpiece with one face sliding along the fence face. Adjust the saw blade so that only 1/8" to 1/4" is above the piece. Push the wood through the blade.

NOTE: This requires removal of any splitter device you may in place.

The blade will cut a small kerf in the block, but both the workpiece and any scrap are pushed through the blade with your hand safely out of the way. If you prefer, use 2x6 or wider to increase the distance.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
Bob