Which Router Table

[Nathalee Jones]

Okay I am down to 3 choices - I have the Festool 1400 Plunge router, tracks, parallel guide, and other accessories. I have 2 Craftsman routers and accessories. I have all of Sommerfeld accessories, bits, feather guard, easy set jig, hinge boring jig, easy mark and I have the tall 4" bit with pro cabinetmaking bit set. Here are the choices.
1. $1400 - Festool table set CMS-GE (P00111) - use my festool router
2. $1273 - Sommerfeld Table top/Fence & 3 1/4 hp (799) Triton router and RT-1000 table base(255+179shipping)
3. $777 - RT1000 table and fence comination (349+179 shipping) and Triton 3 1/4 Router (249 Sommerfeld)

My priority is satisfaction. I want to be COMPLETELY satisfied with my purchase hands down - $$ not a consideration..

I am making custom cabinets for my entire house - I am female so I'm controlling the purse strings, if I'll be happier with the cheaper purchase - that's what I want. I currently own the Festool plunge saw, a shop fox table saw with extension a Rigid compound miter saw and still will need to think about dust extraction after this - I currently have a cheap Rigid, but can't decide on dust extraction (that will be the next question). Please help - the only reason I'd consider the Sommerfeld Router Table top and fence is because of the fence and the ability to use taller router bits without having to make a sacrifice fence.

Thanks,
Nat

[George Bokros]

Two to consider. Woodpeckers http://woodpeck.com or Jessem http://jessem.com . I do not have either but they are the two I am considering for replacing my current router table.

There is also Kreg http://kregtool.com what I don't like about that one is that one end of the fence runs in a slot in the table top.

With any of these you will want their lift and a router to fit the lift.

George

[scott vroom]

When I outfitted my shop 5 years ago I opted for a router table over a shaper, a decision I eventually regretted. I build primarily cabinets and raised panel doors and have experienced inconsistent results particularly when feeding longer stock resulting is time consuming rework. You can try adapting a power feeder to a router table but if you're going that route why not just get a shaper with a baby power feeder? A Grizzly 3HP is about $1,200 delivered, and a power feeder is $400+. You said money is no object and I think it's worth considering. The Grizzly will accept 1/2" shank router bits; I discussed this with Mark Sommerfeld and he said that his raised panel profiling bits should work fine at 10,000 RPM, the typical max speed for a shaper. Worth investigating anyway.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/3-HP-Shaper/G1026

[johnny means]

After 15 years and several router tables, I would definitely start with the best top possible. Of course, cast iron is the gold standard. I recommend a shop built cabinet or stand, nothing commercially available is going to fit your needs better. I've also come to the conclusion that any router with built in above the table adjustment is a compromise. None of them comes remotely close to the performance of a good lift. Finally, the Porter Cable 7518 is the best router motor ever made, period.

Now these three thing together without a base are probably going to run well north of a grand before we even mention a fence or stand. But, IMO, any no compromise table starts here.
Mines is still waiting on the lift and 7518 motor, but the top always feels right.
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[Prashun Patel]

I have the Incra setup: router table + MastRLiftII + LS Positioner and wonderfence.

I really like my set up because the lift allows above-the-table changes and super precise setup. The Incra has magnetic insert rings, so swapping them out is easy. They are also nice and durable.

But the real magic with the Incra set up is the LS positioner. Unlike most other fences, it uses a deep carriage that makes setting and micro-adjusting depth extremely precise. I did two entertainment cabinets with this set up. Dialing in the rails and stiles was super easy.

The Wonderfence has a split face with wedges behind each half. This makes shimming them very easy. When i had to joint 1/64" off the bottoms or sides of the cabinets so they'd fit, it was a joy.

[Paul Wunder]

The Rt-1000 table and fence is based upon Norm Abrams' (New Yankee Workshop) design and many woodworkers have built his table over the years. I am currently building a modified Abrams table, but i am using a Jessem table top and fence.

I strongly considered the RT-1000 instead of building my own because it appeared to be well made and would have actually cost me less to buy than building my own. If I didn't already have the fence and table top I would have bought the Rt-1000. Among the choices you listed I think it gives you the best bang for the buck and will certainly be up to the task.

[Keith Hankins]

Build your own! You can take the features of all of them you like and encorporate it. You will find that a dedicated router is the best for a table. Get a big one. My setup is 10+ years old and still going strong. I have the PC7518 and its a beast and the standard all others are judged by. Get a good fence or build one. I have the Woodpecker LS120 fence because i wanted micro adjust. It's come in handy more times than I can count. I also can reccomend woodpecker lifts strong and will stand the test of time. For the money you listed you could build extra storage get the lift router and still have money left.

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[Prashun Patel]

This debate arises every time a 'which router table' question is asked. Keith's table is beautiful, and I'm not discounting how excellent and rewarding a self-built table can be. However, a couple myths should be dispelled:

1) It is not necessarily cheaper to build vs. buy. The router, plate, insert, and possibly fence would still require purchasing.
2) A built solution is not necessarily going to function better than a bought one. Mass and flatness and straightness are things you might arguably do better and more economically than a store-bought solution, but as important to these things is repeatability, adjustability, and set up and change convenience. These are not as easily engineered in the shop.
3) A lot of the router table builds give equal focus to the storage cabinet as the table. This may or may not be important to you.

At its essence, a router table is just a flat top with a hole in it. You can do a lot with a piece of scrap plywood and some sawhorses. This makes it seem like $1000 on a cadillac routing solution is extravagant. But the savings in frustration and set up time made it very much worth it for me; you can sneak up on things and tweak. This control has been priceless to me.

<steps down from soapbox>

[Ralph Okonieski]

I built my own router table because I wanted to. I have no experience with a purchased table so I can not help there.

I have the Pc 7518 router with Woodpecker top and PRL lift. I made several fences; they are pretty easy. I am very happy with the combination of all components and would do it again without hesitation.

Good luck with your decision.

[Clay Fails]

Take a look at the General International setup with cast iron top, fence and lift. I have a PC 7518 in that table and am very pleased with it.

[Don Welch]

Cast iron is the best table to consider, any non-metal type is going to have deflection / stability issues at some point. We have a Benchdog cast iron top w/ what may have been the last remote speed control Milwaukee router in Canada [found none in the US] with a Jessem lift and fence. Remote control is nice, biut the same large format router is available w/o the remote. As much as i like this for a router set-up, starting over I'd probably shop for a lightweight used shaper. Some of the older small Minimax ones are out there, perhaps an older Powermatic of Delta even - look for those over the new Asian stuff.

[Rick Potter]

I have both a Jessem and a Woodpecker lift, both with 7518 routers. While I would recommend either one, my nod goes to the Woodpecker lift, it is built like a tank.

Rick P

[Nathalee Jones]

How big is your top? I work with a lot of 4x8, so support would be great. I could build extensions. I love that your table looks bigger, but I can't see your top? Woodpecker fence? I really love this idea - but REALLY wanted it ready to go like next week, which is why I wanted to just pay for it to get it over with? The bottom almost looks like the RT-1000? Where did you get your plans... This might be the way I go, especially if I can get an extended top out of it.

Thanks

[Paul McGaha]

I think we're fortunate to have several good manufactures of router table tops, lifts and fences. Woodpecker, Jessum, Incra, Benchdog just to name some of them.

My router table consists of a Woodpecker lift and top. My fence was gifted to me by a creeker and it's made by Benchdog (Howdy Don if you're reading this). The router is a Milwaukee 5625.

I agree with the other creekers who suggested to make sure you get a good lift.

I'd plan on the router to be mounted permanently in the table.

I agree with your buy once, cry once attitude on this purchase.

Maybe a packaged set like this from Woodpeckers:

http://www.woodpeck.com/prp2.html

Good luck with it.

PHM

[Nathalee Jones]

Okay,

Which cast iron top do you recommend?
1. General Cast Iron top 24x32
2. Bench Dog Pro Cast Iron top

I purchased the
NEW JessEm Mast-R-Lift II 02120... (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-JessEm-Mast-R-Lift-II-02120-Router-Lift-9-1-4-Inch-by-11-3-4-Inch/111373110727?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3 D1%26asc%3D22425%26meid%3D7455370287512679194%26pi d%3D100033%26prg%3D9723%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D 111373110727%26)
for $289.99 complete.
I'm going to build the table as many of you suggested with about 2ft extension on either side. This should support my larger boards. The table will end up being about the size of the Shop Fox I own.

I'm still concerned about the fence. I'm leaning towards Sommerfeld's fence because it will take that 4" architectural bit- more like 3 5/8" tall. I believe many of you recommend Wonderfence or Woodpecker's - but which is the best? I'll be using the featherboards from Sommerfeld - I purchased 2 one for fenc and one for the table.

Any suggestions since I'm now going a new route?

Nathalee

[Keith Hankins]

My top is 26"x46" by 1 5/8" thick. It's a heavy beast of two 3/4" pieces of mdf with formica on top and wrapped in oak. It just sets on top with struts that set down in the opening for the cavity that holds the router. It's so heavy with router, lift, and top, that it does not budge. I just clamp the fence to the top so it's easily removed and put back on. Here's a link to some diff views. BTW, I snagged the fence on the old knots forum for sale for a song. That was way back in the days when people still went there. I have way less in mine than new and way better features as well. But hey some people don't like building shop furniture, so I fully understand.

https://flic.kr/s/aHsjY6e4rF

[Brian Holcombe]

I have the Incra setup: router table + MastRLiftII + LS Positioner and wonderfence.

I really like my set up because the lift allows above-the-table changes and super precise setup. The Incra has magnetic insert rings, so swapping them out is easy. They are also nice and durable.

But the real magic with the Incra set up is the LS positioner. Unlike most other fences, it uses a deep carriage that makes setting and micro-adjusting depth extremely precise. I did two entertainment cabinets with this set up. Dialing in the rails and stiles was super easy.

The Wonderfence has a split face with wedges behind each half. This makes shimming them very easy. When i had to joint 1/64" off the bottoms or sides of the cabinets so they'd fit, it was a joy.


I have this same setup and it works nicely for me. I'm considering adding Jessem stock guides.

[Guy Belleman]

Of the choices listed, I would recommend #3. For the work intended, I concur with Scott, get a shaper.

[johnny means]

Those who recommend a shaper over a router table seem somewhat ill informed. There is some cross over between the two machines, but a shaper does not replace a router table as a router table does not replace a shaper. In addition, shaper tooling can be prohibitively expensive. The OP likely has a collection of router tooling that would make a new router table a versatile addition on day one. On the other hand a shaper would require hundreds if not thousands of dollars in additional tooling before being really useful.

[scott vroom]

Those who recommend a shaper over a router table seem somewhat ill informed. There is some cross over between the two machines, but a shaper does not replace a router table as a router table does not replace a shaper. In addition, shaper tooling can be prohibitively expensive. The OP likely has a collection of router tooling that would make a new router table a versatile addition on day one. On the other hand a shaper would require hundreds if not thousands of dollars in additional tooling before being really useful.

OP: "My priority is satisfaction. I want to be COMPLETELY satisfied with my purchase hands down - $$ not a consideration."

I've built hundreds of doors on a router table and stand by my recommendation to consider a shaper for this type of work. As I mentioned, I spoke with Marc Sommerfeld on the subject of raised panel router bits on a shaper and he thought it would work fine as he recommends slower RPM's on his profiling bits anyway. So no, I am not ill informed in recommending the OP at least consider a shaper. 3HP Grizzly $1,200 delivered. Add a small feeder and $1,600. A decent router table/fence/motor/table etc is well over a grand and will require much more effort to produce consistent quality door profiling IMO .

[Guy Belleman]

Interesting, didn't realize this would turn into a shaper vs router debate. Years ago, having attended one of Lonnie Bird's two week classes, who wrote "The Shaper Book", and upon seeing a shaper properly used, I decided to buy a shaper. Not a big one, just a 1.5HP Grizzly, right now on sale for $555, and spent about $400 on the bits I use, I found that I greatly prefer the shaper, and is a joy to use. I find the shaper does run slower, but provides a consistent cut, doesn't even slow down, and seldom makes a blemish or burn on what I shape. Now, I do have a router table too, and it does have some advantages at times. I have quite a bit more money invested in router stuff than the shaper, but I suppose it could go either way.

So, Scott +1 on the shaper idea. Guess I will head out to the shop to enjoy cutting a few shapes, and then reread "The Shaper Book" for if I remember correctly there were some neat things that Lonnie showed. I so do want to be well informed.

[Nathalee Jones]

Do you mind telling me what else you use the shaper for? I really like the idea of it not burning or the cuts being consistent. I can sell my lift and would go this way if the shaper is $555. The cast iron top I was about to purchase is $364, and the PC 7218 router is $254, not mentioning the fence and then I have to build the cabinet. If this is only $555, then I can sell my Jessum and just build an extension onto the shaper. They don't have extensions you can purchase right?

Thanks for adding the info on the benefits of the shaper - I did look into it, but they seemed to run the same cost as the router and I didn't see the benefits - this really helps. I'm about to do some value shopping now. See if I can find it on Ebay, Craigslist or the classifieds....

Nathalee

[Nathalee Jones]

Just to clarify - I am a 115lb woman woodworker and I occasionally like to do work when hubby isn't home. I work with large pieces up to 8ft tall and lifting the wood isn't the big deal, it is supporting it ALL the way through the router without rushing it. So I would like to have a LONG table or something that will work well with extensions.

I'm still looking for this Grizzly.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Grizzly shaper here:
https://www.grizzly.com/products/1-1-2-HP-Shaper/G1035

[Nathalee Jones]

Okay 1 last question - I am down to the fence now and I've decided to take the Incra - this table top is cast iron.

I know I want the Wonder Fence, but do I need the LS Positioner? They have the Wonderfence stand alone for about $210, they have the Wonder Fence upgrade for about $140 but you of course have to have the positioner. Or I could get a set with the entire setup for about $339.

Since my top is cast iron - will the positioner be worth it especially since I've heard you have to attach the positioner by drilling holes in the top of the cast iron table top...???

[scott vroom]

I work with large pieces up to 8ft tall and lifting the wood isn't the big deal, it is supporting it ALL the way through the router without rushing it. So I would like to have a LONG table or something that will work well with extensions.


This is where a shaper with a power feeder will outperform a router table IMO. Unless you can rig up a power feeder on your router table you will find it difficult to get consistent quality output running long stock across a router table.

[Guy Belleman]

Nathalee,
When I bought my shaper, I did also purchase two additional wings, all cast iron, which bolt on just like the wings on a table saw. I think there are predrilled bolt patterns on three sides of the top. For big objects, as on any tool (table saw, bandsaw, etc) I use additional tables and rollers on the infeeds and outfeeds. Hope it all works out for you.