Installing a bow eye

[Wade Lippman]

I bought a 12' 40 year old aluminum sailboat. It pretty much is like an aluminum row boat, though I hope it is better made than those. The sides are about 0.04" and the strip that connects them is 0.09"; with rivets about every 1.1".

The bow eye was part of a casting on the top of the bow, but it has broken off; and I want to install a bow eye.

I am planning on drilling two holes for a 3/8" U-bolt, packing the area around the bolts (on the inside...) with epoxy putty to spread the stress out, and then snugging the nuts/washers up against the epoxy putty.

Does that seem like a reasonable plan? I will be mooring it so it need a bow eye, but I sure don't want to rip the bow out in a storm.

[ray hampton]

I would add two mounting back plates [ top and bottom ]for extra support

[Jim Creech]

I agree with Ray. Some backing to distribute the load would provide considerable strength if properly done.

[Wade Lippman]

The first 4' of the boat is covered. You can squeeze in and reach the bow with your hand, but that is about all. I should have included a picture.
290541290542
The epoxy putty is the backer. Since I can't get into it do measure or fit anything, I am using putty because will fill the space automatically and spread the load out.

[ray hampton]

can you turn the boat upside down when you apply the epoxy , this way you will not be fighting gravity

[Wade Lippman]

can you turn the boat upside down when you apply the epoxy , this way you will not be fighting gravity

I am planning on putting it in the bow, about 6" below the point. (The point probably has a technical name, but I don't know what it is)
Epoxy putty is like thick sticky clay. Once it is shoved in, it won't go anywhere.

[Jack Battersby]

Epoxy does not work very well with metal. If epoxy is used with metal it is best used where the metal has a number of holes in it so that the epoxy will be both below and above the piece of metal. I think you are using the wrong adhesive. I would treat this like a through hull connection and use something like 5200. The eye bolt should be mechanically fastened first with plates on both sides of the stem. Pretty much every commercial bow eye I have seen has a backing plate as part of the package. If you are making something from the hardware store, you can use stainless washers I suppose. Drill it, bolt it and liberally apply the 5200 to all surfaces and the hole and it should be fine.

I just did this on a wooden boat a couple of weeks ago.