Spalting accomplished??

[Greg A Jones]

May I correctly assume that my effort to induce spalting in this sycamore I cut last summer was (is) successful? I've seen pics but never the real thing -- at least to know what I was looking at. How long will it continue to spalt and when should I turn them? I cut the three on the outside today -- should I re-seal the ends and put them back on the dry pile?

[John Thorson]

There will be a number of fungi at work, not just the blue-line variety that a wood turner thinks of when they say the wood is 'spalted'. If you like the look of what you have (I do) I would turn-off the process by drying the wood down, for me that means rough turning the piece. Resealing the ends will lock a lot of moisture in the log and keep the fungi active longer and that is a gamble.

[Greg A Jones]

Thanks. Gamble as in potential rotting?

[Rich Aldrich]

Yes, sealing it could make the wood rot too much and become punky. I agree with John and would rough them out and dry them.

[Greg A Jones]

Thanks. Guess I have my work lined out for the next couple of weeks. Probably have 20 more just like those.

[robert baccus]

You have more wood than you can use. Why not try several treatments to the wood and find out firsthand?

[Greg A Jones]

I have lots of family that like stuff.
I don't have anything else to do and have a pretty big shop. Plenty of room to stack roughed out blanks until I get to them. Although I may well let a couple keep going

[Ralph Lindberg]

Have you read, or watched, anything by Dr Sara Robinson, a wood-turner that (literally) holds a PhD in wood-splating?
http://www.northernspalting.com/

She has really reduced the "guess-work" part into a "formula" system.

[Greg A Jones]

Thanks. Will check it out.

[Brian Brown]

Those logs look great, and I personally think that they are ready. I would seal a few (2-3) and let them continue spalting, while you rough the rest out for drying. Just remember to wear breathing protection when you rough them out. The fungi that cause the spalting are nasty on your lungs.

[Greg A Jones]

Thanks. That's pretty much what I've decided to do. Check one every 6-8 weeks and see. Roger on protection. If I'm in the shop working, I have my mask and safety glasses on. Even if I'm just piddling. Got tired of waking up hacking lung pieces up my first couple of months turning. :eek:

[Ray Bell]

Greg, did you add anything for instance chemical, miracalgro, beer, to induce spalting? Or have these just been laying on a pile for some time. They look great.

[Greg A Jones]

Didn't do a thing. Cut them last August from a pile of storm debris. They had been on the ground/in the pile (almost like a huge compost pile) for about 6 weeks. Took them home, cut them to the sizes you see, sealed the ends and left them face down on the ground for about another 6 weeks. Then put them up on landscape timbers and covered them for the first part of winter. Moved them into my shop about 4 months ago.

ETA - I cut out four blanks on the band saw and with the exception of the spalting that was visible on the ends, I didn't see any more. I know that doesn't necessarily mean it hasn't spread internally, but unless I find something considerably more extensive when I rough them out, I believe I'll just let the rest sit and simmer as I was of a notion to do.

[Reed Gray]

Well, if you read Dr. Spault's stuff, the various additives don't do any thing other than add easy food for the fungi that cause spaulting because they will eat that first, then go for the wood. Sycamore spaults easily because of the sugars in it (maple). Like others have said, rough turn now. If there is any water in it, and you seal it, it will continue to rot.

robo hippy