Help with a wider cut under a router cut

[Mark Ward]

I'm from the engravers section of the forum but need some help with soemthing from over this neck of the woods I think (I am no woodworking expert so the chances are this is a very basic query).

I have attached a picture to give an idea what I am after but will explain too.
I am making a base for some acrylic to stand in, this is not too much of a problem as I can router out the space I need for that, however, underneath the acrylic I want to place an LED strip, however the acrylic will either be 3mm or 5mm and the LED strip is about 10mm wide and maybe 3mm high.
So how do I go about creating that that type of cut underneath the length of my 3mm or 5mm router cut I have done for my acrylic for the LED strip to slide in? Obviously making the router cut 10mm means that the acrylic then has a big lean on and I want it to be stood firm upright. Is there a special bit I can put on the end of the router once I have made the initial cut for the acrylic to then go underneath it to do the other cut?
290260

[Cary Falk]

You want something like a keyhole slot bit. You might have to look around for one in the size you need.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31AJtZ5nwxL._AA160_.jpg

[lowell holmes]

You could laminate the strip in two pieces and then make the vertical cut.

[Bill Huber]

I think you are going to have to do it different than just one router bit.

Cut the block to shape and then cut a dado from the bottom. Now cut a block to go back in to the dado you cut.
Now put the block in and glue it all up.
Now you can make the top cut for the acrylic.
Or something like that...

290264

[Prashun Patel]

I'd do it almost like Bill, except I'd just rip the block all the way across. If you pick your grain fairly straight on the sides, your seam will be nearly invisible.

Using a keyhole bit is tricky. They are prone to snapping on deep slots because of the torque exerted on the tip of the bit.

[Mark Ward]

Thanks for the replies guys and the diagram Bill. These have given me options to think on, I do like the idea of the keyhole slot bit but had a look and they aren't cheap and if they could break then the dado cut might work out better perhaps.

[Chris Padilla]

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001774/2919/Whiteside-98-389-Small-T-Slot-Router-Bit.aspx?keyword=&refcode=10INGOPB&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CODhofvOz74CFYxufgodDYMA_w

Try googling "t router bit" and you'll find what you want. You will still need to use two router bits: one to cut long part of the T (a straight router bit large enough to house the t router bit) and the t to cut the short part. You *might* find a size you need but I'm thinking they may be too heavy a cut for what you're looking for. Good Luck! :)

[Lee Schierer]

I think you are going to have to do it different than just one router bit.

Cut the block to shape and then cut a dado from the bottom. Now cut a block to go back in to the dado you cut.
Now put the block in and glue it all up.
Now you can make the top cut for the acrylic.
Or something like that...

290264
You can do what Bill is suggesting as an insert in a blind slot in the bottom of your stand so that the end grain remains on each end of your stand if that is a requirement. It also gives you a way to get the power to the LEDs